Edited by scerre, 29 May 2005 - 05:09 PM.

Leak Down Test?
#1
Posted 29 May 2005 - 04:36 PM
#2
Posted 29 May 2005 - 05:14 PM
A leak down test is done with a leak down tester. It will pressurize the cylinder and the gauge will let you know how well the cylinder is holding the pressure. Has nothing to do with the compression tester.
#3
Posted 29 May 2005 - 05:22 PM
#4
Posted 29 May 2005 - 05:38 PM
#5
Posted 30 May 2005 - 03:06 PM
To open the butterfly valve should can I just press down on the throttle?
#6
Posted 30 May 2005 - 03:50 PM
#7
Posted 30 May 2005 - 04:21 PM
I don't know where cylinders one through five are located but starting from driver side cylinder to passenger side cylinder I got the following readings.
160 - 180 - 20 - 160 - 160
My mechanic told me that cylinder #2 was 30psi in the winter. I assume the middle cylinder is # 2. After putting oil in it I got no movement. Then I put a little more oil in it (one more cap full) and I got it to 30 psi. Does this tell me a blown head gasket or valve? Is this repairable for a semi novice?
#8
Posted 30 May 2005 - 05:08 PM
#9
Posted 30 May 2005 - 05:22 PM
HELP....what next? Leak Down Test...Doesn't look like a cylinder issue does it?
#10
Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:21 AM
#11
Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:37 AM
#12
Posted 01 June 2005 - 12:25 AM
Sorry for not giving the complete history.
On one cold morning in Richmond, VA I started my car and it sounded really rough. Almost to the point that the car shook. At low RPM the engine is extremely rough...but after speeding up it sounded closer to normal. It does not stall at idle but it sounds like it may. You can hear the clank clank of the rough engine and it doesn't sound as bad on the highway.
I drove the car for a few weeks, possibly a month. I really wasn't burning any more gas or oil. I was going through a lot of oil...more than usual for about a year.
I performed the oil in the cylinder trick in the troubled cylinder. The pressure didn't change the first time. The second cap full made the cylinder compression go from 20 to 25. It had two cap of oil for the second test.
When I do the test...you can tell that the pressure doesn't move...it sound like there was no seal ....it was basically silent. With the other cylinders you can feel the pressure build. The starter really works to build up the pressure. Hope that helped.
Thanks,
sc
#13
Posted 01 June 2005 - 12:28 AM
#14
Posted 01 June 2005 - 12:37 AM
Thanks,
OK....is it more reasonable to purchase a boreascope or do the leak down test? Either way, wouldn't I have to open her up and do a valve job (or Rings and Cylinder) or should I just drop a new engine in? I would love to fix it up...but how difficult would it be...I'm reasonably smart...(my x wife may feel differently though
#15
Posted 01 June 2005 - 01:33 AM
#16
Posted 01 June 2005 - 02:27 AM
I have the Haynes Volvo 850 Manual. Should I follow that for the valve job or do you have other literature in your info file? ...can you give me a level of difficulty?
thanks for your help.
#17
Posted 01 June 2005 - 02:53 AM
#18 Guest_Guest_n653ds_*_*
Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:26 AM
Or, if anyone is interested, Sport Aviation had an article a bunch of years ago on building your own, I have a copy someplace, it would have to be scanned and put into some format (maybe Adobe) - if anyone is interested. First though, I need to find the article again. It isn't hard to make, you may need access to a lathe, a regulator, a couple of pressure gauges, some hose and couplings.
Maybe I will make one this weekend if I can find the article again.
Back to our regularly scheduled insanity.
Steve
'95 850T 235k & counting
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