15 replies to this topic

[Jeph430]

At least I think that's what it is called? When rotating my tires today, my front pass. side one was really greasy inside as well as my caliper and strut tube. Upon further inspection, I found a small tear in the rubber boot right behind my rotor. This is the CV joint, right? What is involved in this fix, or is it basically a replacement type deal with $ involved....grrrr Can I just let it go or will it cause me more pain down the line? I know it will need to be fixed sometime, but the sooner the better?

[Hagan]

At least I think that's what it is called?  When rotating my tires today, my front pass. side one was really greasy inside as well as my caliper and strut tube.  Upon further inspection, I found a small tear in the rubber boot right behind my rotor.  This is the CV joint, right?  What is involved in this fix, or is it basically a replacement type deal with $ involved....grrrr  Can I just let it go or will it cause me more pain down the line?  I know it will need to be fixed sometime, but the sooner the better?

Mine has been torn for almost a year now and I haven't done a thing to fix it. Everyonce in a while I'll stick my finger in there to make sure its still greased. It clicks a little pulling out of turns but I'm not very worried about it, I just add it to the long list. Also, I don't know how to fix it so that doesn't help.

[shurgen]

If you don't have clicking noices when turning sharp while driving then you can save the joint by taking the axle out, cleaning the joint where the boot is torn and put a new boot on with grease.

[prasamin]

to answer your question, if you leave it like that for long enough that it dries out, then you'll ruin the axle...that's $$

I don't know how hard/easy it is to replace a torn boot, but I know a boot fix kit is fairly cheap....

[Jaxx]

I had this problem when I took my brick in for new tires...

the boot itself was 99 bucks, the axel was 99, so I went ahead and got the whole axel.

[Jeph430]

I had this problem when I took my brick in for new tires...

the boot itself was 99 bucks, the axel was 99, so I went ahead and got the whole axel.

Dang, IPD wants $400 for one.... There is also this boot kit on ebay for $25. FCP has rebuilt axles for $95 and the CV kit for $25 as well. What is involved in taking the pass. side axle off, and how long will my car be down and out. Short job to pop it out, or do I have to tear the tranny down? Can I do the kit on the car?

[N653DS]

I recently replaced the axles on my '95 854T, no big job really. Please see Bay 13 for particulars. You will need a big socket (36mm as I recall). If you have some miles it might be worth while to change the front bearing(s) as well. The passenger side has a support bearing secured with 2 bolts (12mm socket). With everything out of the way as described in the BAy 13 article a quick "tug" and you will be holding the shaft (don't forget the drip pan). I can pull mine down in less than an hour, put it back together in about the same amount of time - this also allows time to pet the neighbor's dog, not much help but she's good company.

The "expensive" axle shafts apparently have "new" CV joints, the less expensive have "rebuilt" CV joints. I got mine from AutoZone - something like $69 each + $40 core per. I figure at 235k miles, if they last 50K miles I am still money ahead. Wheel bearings? Ouch, expect well over $100/wheel (SKF brand). Still, at 235k miles I am once again money ahead.

If you are inclined to replace the oil seal in the xmsn, the old one should just pop out, install the new one just flush with the xmsn case. Seals run about $16-18 each from Volvo.

A word of advice (experience), if you order the wheel bearing "kit" from IPD expect only the bearing, no new bolts or nuts as mentioned in the Bay 13 article (Volve front spindle bearing "kit").

Have fun, but really, it's no big deal.

[kenhoeve]

my advice, take it to be repacked asap. since it's a small tear and fairly new, there shouldn't be any junk in it and it hasn't run dry. they will pull the axle, clean it, and repack and replace with a new boot. should only be $150 labor.

[Che'_Moderator]

Since you need the car go to local auto store and buy a boot. Usually 40-60, then replace it. If you dont feel you can any shop in the world can for usually 50-100 depending how much they charge per hour.

[merlin390]

my boot kit set me back a whole $20 (only does one boot) it was of similar thickness to the stock boot good stainless clamps. now I just need to take my wheel off and clean the grease off

[Jeph430]

So this repacking can be done on the car? I don't waste money by having others do my work, been screwed by mechanics to much in the past...

[shurgen]

So this repacking can be done on the car?  I don't waste money by having others do my work, been screwed by mechanics to much in the past...

Just replace the boot. It won't be the easiest job one can do on the car but not the hardest either. Get yourself a Haynes manual, it has detailed description (step by step instructions) on how to replace cv boot.

Edited by shurgen, 03 June 2005 - 12:26 AM.

[Che'_Moderator]

Your going to need to pull the axle. Its less than 8 bolts. On the 44mm axle nut make sure to bend the tabs back out before you try to remove it.

[shurgen]

Your going to need to pull the axle.  Its less than 8 bolts.  On the 44mm axle nut make sure to bend the tabs back out before you try to remove it.

34mm axle nut

[yangotang]

It is a 36mm nut. I have a rebuilt axle sitting here and I just tested the socket. Autozone has the sockets for loan if you are willing to give a $15 deposit.

Edited by yangotang, 03 June 2005 - 05:28 AM.

[Che'_Moderator]

I think they are all different, based on if its OEM or not. I have 2 sizes infront of me both with same size and pitch on the inside