23 replies to this topic

[XtremePsionic]

Do I need a spring compressor for the rear springs? or can I just loosen the rear shock mount and slide the spring out? (if that was possible.. .hehe)

I'm going to put some overload springs in the back of my wagon btw.

[Dana]

Quote my mechanic "The only thing holding your rear springs in are the shocks."

-Dana

[freeskier8585]

you might need it to get the new ones in...just a thought

[Bay13]

Take the bottom shock off where it connects to the delta rod, and the bucket that holds the spring in place will drop down and the spring can be worked out. To get it back up use a jack while you push the spring forward so it seats correctly at the top.

[XtremePsionic]

Thanks guys, I got some new rear shock mounts too, so looks like I just gotta take apart the top and bottom of the rear shocks for this job.

#6666 post by rich.. evil

[XtremePsionic]

Ugh I'm stumped. The nut on the bottom of the rear spring holding it in, it keeps on spinning when I try to undo it. So I can't take the thingy that holds the spring on the bottom.

Any tips and tricks for removing that?

Edited by XtremePsionic, 23 April 2004 - 08:00 PM.

[PullMyFinger]

Wire brush the threads, use LOTS of PBlaster, use an impact wrench, or clamp the spring seat with something like vice grips or whatever fits. Jam something in there to hold it while you back the nut off.

Mine came out really easily both times. Its odd that yours is giving you trouble.

Actually...I remember there being a metal tab on that spring stay that fits into a hole in the trailing arm. Be sure to line that back up when you reassemble. Obviously, if that tab is in the hole it should prevent it from spinning. Perhaps the previous owner just squashed it down with the bolt and that tab is bent in now.

Have a look when you do get it apart. There are two holes in that trailing arm. One in the center for the bolt to go through. And one just off center for that retainer tab to sit in. If the tab is bent in, pry it back out straight. You should be good to go then.

Chris

[XtremePsionic]

Ok, I got a new picture up, I hope its easier to see what I mean now.

The circled thing is the top of the bolt that I'm trying to undo. There is a nut on the bottom of it, and when I try to undo that nut, the bolt will spin round and round. Its spinning independent of the bigger circular disc that's holding the spring down.

As for the metal tab, yeah, its still intact and straight.

[PullMyFinger]

hmm

I don't know if those two pieces are supposed to be one solid unit or not. On mine it came out as one piece. I'm guessing the bolt stud is just pressed into that the spring retainer. And normally it would never have cause to come loose. But you are the lucky recipient of that fluke.

You prolly don't have the means or you would have already done it but you could tack weld the two together. The bolt isn't under that much load really. It just keeps the spring in contact with the trailing arm. I think you only torque it to around 28 ft pounds when reassembling.

Maybe two part epoxy will hold it enough to get the nut off. I suppose worst case scenario you could order the replacements from your dealer and cut the stud with a hack saw. But it just seems like there should be some way of grabbing that stud hard enough to hold it while spinning the nut off.

How about a chisel or punch. Put a significant dent or notch in that bugger then you might have something to tap against to work the nut off. Its not exactly a high tech tight tolerance unit there. I wouldn't worry too much about buggering it up.

[XtremePsionic]

well you sure know your stuff dude I was thinking either weld it (don't have a welder) or glue it (but it might not be strong enough) or get a big clamp and try to hold the top of that bolt down.


Pretty weird how mine came "loose" of the bigger "disc" eh... I guess I'll put some more WD 40 on the other side's nut before trying to undo it.

[PullMyFinger]

Good luck on that!

Is there enough bolt with threads sticking out beyond the nut to hit with a grinder? You could put two flat sides on the exposed part and grab that with an adjustable wrench. Might be enough to get it started. Be sure to clean up the threads with a file before you run the nut over them though.

If you have a grinder wheel made for cutting (not grinding) you might also be able to cut a notch into the end of the bolt and use a big screw driver. That would allow you to hold it while spinning the nut all the way off.

Be patient, you'll get it

Chris

[lcc014]

I had the same problem when I tried to fix the rubber bump stopper falling down inside the spring. The nut spinned with the metal "plate". The "plate" itself has a metal pin sticking out and facing down. The metal pin goes into a hole in the spring holder. That pin broke when I turned the nut due to the rust. The pin is supposed to hold the "plate" in place (stop it to spin) while tighten the nut underneath.

The only option you have is either to find a vice grip to hold down the plate and try to unloose the nut, or cut the nut and the screw of the metal plate. Get a new nut and metal plate from dealer.

I did the same thing to the fuel filter clamp bolt and nut. The nut was welded to the clamp. It broke lose when I tried to unloose the nut from below. The whole nut and bolt turned together. I used dremel tool to cut the nut and bolt to get the fuel filter clamp out. I bought new clamp and bolt from dealer.

Good luck.

Ching-Ho Cheng

[XtremePsionic]

I had the same problem when I tried to fix the rubber bump stopper falling down inside the spring.  The nut spinned with the metal "plate".  The "plate" itself has a metal pin sticking out and facing down.  The metal pin goes into a hole in the spring holder.  That pin broke when I turned the nut due to the rust.  The pin is supposed to hold the "plate" in place (stop it to spin) while tighten the nut underneath.

No, thats not it, the circled thing in the picture is spinning independently of the bigger plate (which has a pin on the bottom)

[Bay13]

If it spins I hold it in place with a large set of channel lock pliers and hit it with the air gun.

[XtremePsionic]

Just a follow up, the left side came out fine (WD40 before I tried to undo the nut) and installing the spring was a snap.

The right side that I had a problem with, I bought a dremel and cut a line on the spinning bolt, used a screw driver and clamp to hold that down, and undo the nut. That took a LONG time... anyway, I got it to work, and its all done now.

With the stiffer overload springs in the back, I can carry more stuff without sinking, it didn't lift my car, and the handling of my wagon is now quite a bit better. Much less understeer, but not enough rear rotation to be unsafe. Its still quite impossible to make the rear swing out, but the car doesn't scrub the front tires like mad when I push to the limit.

[Figawi]

what is involved in replacing the front springs on an 850?

[XtremePsionic]

what is involved in replacing the front springs on an 850?

look at my strut install guide.

[jb7073]

what is involved in replacing the front springs on an 850?

I think the thing I found most annoying when I replaced my springs last weekend was that the compressors were just a little to small to allow the springs to fully extend. Had to compress them myself just to get the compressors off without them flying off.
Other than that, I think it's pretty simple. But I guess I have changed struts on every volvo I've owned, so I'm kinda used to it.

BTW, don't forget to put new strut mounts on while you've got everything torn apart.

[Figawi]

what is involved in replacing the front springs on an 850?

look at my strut install guide.

thanks that helps a lot

since i am adding R springs to my car, should i replace the struts while i have the old ones out? i've never replaced my struts on my 93 850 before so i'm assuming they came with the car

[CA855R]

I'm going to put some overload springs in the back of my wagon btw.

Tell me more about this spring! I'm looking to remove my Nivomats but don't know what to replace them with. Do these keep the same stock height? They sound a little stiffer. Can you them for the rears only? Where did you get them from?