Does anyone have any insight into how hard and time it will take to replace a rear
sub-farme bushing and a front control arm bushing on a 1983 850??
Thanks,
Bob
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'93 850 Control Arm Bushing?
Started by RAZ, Apr 27 2004 10:36 PM
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5 replies to this topic
#2
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Posted 02 May 2004 - 07:45 AM
Changing the bushings is relatively easy if you have access to a hydraulic bearing press to remove the old bushings and install the new ones. Use a deepwell socket that's a hair smaller than the outside of the bushing for the pusher so you don't scar the inside where the bushing goes. You'll also need a round object larger than the bushing to put under the control arm as you're pressing the bushings. If you have an early 93 with the aluminum control arms all you do is remove the front wheel. Of course you're using a jack stand. Remove both nuts from the two frame mounts where the control arm pivots. Leave the bolts in for now. These will be hard to break free but they will come off. Then take off the three nuts from the lower ball joint. Tap gently to remove the ball joint then remove the frame bolts to remove the control arm.
Get some bushings from the Volvo dealer to save yourself some time searching the regular parts houses. They are $40.00 per set for each control arm. It's a good idea to do both sides. Before pressing out the old bushings, get a measurment of how much the bushing sticks out from the edge. You'll need that to get the new ones back in the same distance so they fit into the frame mounts. Then assembly is in the reverse order. Loosely tighten the control arm bolts but don't torque down until you put the car back on the ground. Get the proper torque setting. I find the Hanes manual pretty handy.
Sorry I can't help you with the rears. I haven't had to do that yet. Good luck.
Get some bushings from the Volvo dealer to save yourself some time searching the regular parts houses. They are $40.00 per set for each control arm. It's a good idea to do both sides. Before pressing out the old bushings, get a measurment of how much the bushing sticks out from the edge. You'll need that to get the new ones back in the same distance so they fit into the frame mounts. Then assembly is in the reverse order. Loosely tighten the control arm bolts but don't torque down until you put the car back on the ground. Get the proper torque setting. I find the Hanes manual pretty handy.
Sorry I can't help you with the rears. I haven't had to do that yet. Good luck.
#3
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Posted 02 May 2004 - 11:18 PM
Steve,
Thanks for the hints. Sounds as easy as it looked. Definately not worth replacing them like the dealer suggested at $250 each side. How much time shoul it take?
BobZ
Thanks for the hints. Sounds as easy as it looked. Definately not worth replacing them like the dealer suggested at $250 each side. How much time shoul it take?
BobZ
#4
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Posted 03 May 2004 - 03:55 AM
Bob,
Each side took only about five minutes actual work to remove once you have the wheels off and are looking at the control arm. Don't quote me because it's been a while since I did this but I think the pivot bolt head is a 3/4" and the nut is an 18mm. The bottom ball joint nuts are 10 or 12mm. If you don't have the torques I can get out my Hanes manual but it's better for you if you have one anyway.
Be advised, pressing out the old bushings and the new ones back in is something you don't want to rush doing. You don't want to bend or crack the arm. The most important thing to do is make sure the new bushing protrudes the correct amount. While you're there, check out the ball joints and tie rod ends for damage or deteriorated. Not to be a nag but you may as well see if the rubber brake hose going to the calipers are not cracked. Bend the hose slightly while inspecting to open any cracks that might be there.
As far as saving yourself plenty of $$$ doing it yourself. I couldn't agree more!!
Good Luck,
Steve
Where are you Bob? I'm in Rochester, NY
Each side took only about five minutes actual work to remove once you have the wheels off and are looking at the control arm. Don't quote me because it's been a while since I did this but I think the pivot bolt head is a 3/4" and the nut is an 18mm. The bottom ball joint nuts are 10 or 12mm. If you don't have the torques I can get out my Hanes manual but it's better for you if you have one anyway.
Be advised, pressing out the old bushings and the new ones back in is something you don't want to rush doing. You don't want to bend or crack the arm. The most important thing to do is make sure the new bushing protrudes the correct amount. While you're there, check out the ball joints and tie rod ends for damage or deteriorated. Not to be a nag but you may as well see if the rubber brake hose going to the calipers are not cracked. Bend the hose slightly while inspecting to open any cracks that might be there.
As far as saving yourself plenty of $$$ doing it yourself. I couldn't agree more!!
Good Luck,
Steve
Where are you Bob? I'm in Rochester, NY
#5
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Newbie
Posted 03 May 2004 - 06:58 PM
Steve,
Great info. I ordered the bushings including the tie rod ends which were also worn. I also ordered a Hynes manual. I'm getting quotes from machine shops of about $25 each(25 minutes) bushing to get them pressed out and a new one in. I'll try to get the old ones out my self and just let them press in the new one.
While I'm in there, I'm going to do the struts at the same time. Have you had to replace the top rubber bushing or upper strut berring for the front strut? Last time I did the struts, I didn't do it.
BTW, I'm in the Boston area.
BobZ
Great info. I ordered the bushings including the tie rod ends which were also worn. I also ordered a Hynes manual. I'm getting quotes from machine shops of about $25 each(25 minutes) bushing to get them pressed out and a new one in. I'll try to get the old ones out my self and just let them press in the new one.
While I'm in there, I'm going to do the struts at the same time. Have you had to replace the top rubber bushing or upper strut berring for the front strut? Last time I did the struts, I didn't do it.
BTW, I'm in the Boston area.
BobZ
#6
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Posted 07 May 2004 - 10:43 PM
Boston Bob,
The way I always look at it is as long as you have it apart (the struts) it's a good idea to replace the upper bearing as well as the lower rubber seat as they tend to get worn along with the strut and you can't always tell how bad the bearing is until you have it all back together and then guess what, you're back in the garage again doing the same job all over. For your peace of mind change them. I'm sure your time is worth every penny it costs to buy the new upper bearings.
You will need a spring compressor to remove the strut from the spring once you have it out. Be sure to get a good quality one though. They can hurt you badly if it it gets away from you. I bought one from my local parts store and it only cost me about $40.00
Steve
The way I always look at it is as long as you have it apart (the struts) it's a good idea to replace the upper bearing as well as the lower rubber seat as they tend to get worn along with the strut and you can't always tell how bad the bearing is until you have it all back together and then guess what, you're back in the garage again doing the same job all over. For your peace of mind change them. I'm sure your time is worth every penny it costs to buy the new upper bearings.
You will need a spring compressor to remove the strut from the spring once you have it out. Be sure to get a good quality one though. They can hurt you badly if it it gets away from you. I bought one from my local parts store and it only cost me about $40.00
Steve
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