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Mechanical Ignition Replacement

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Guest Proy

Can someone direct me to the mechanical ignition switch removal information?

Pete

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You need a drill and a steady hand with a bit of patience. Why not join V/S fill out your signature so we know what your workin' on!!!! perhaps you will get a better response?

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take all the switches and steering wheel off. take a cutoff wheel and slice the old ignition lock cylinder out, or drill the screws out(i dont do that, it takes too long)

dont break off the screws on the new one just in case you have to mess with it later in the life...

good luck!

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OK,

I have it all open (steering wheel on, washer arm and signal arm off, exposing the two 'headless' bolts.

I made a very nice cut in one with the dremel, got a good bit of torque on it with a good quality hex/slot bit, 1/4 combination wrench on the hex bit, and a socket pushing down tight in the slot - ping, I broke 1/2 the tip off the slot bit....hmmmm.

I am sure impact would help, but kind of hard to get anything like that in there from above - without pinging the windshield.

I may try drilling the other side, but will require a 90deg dremel drill attach (at work).

I am certain with some patience and dremel grinding I will get the heads off these screws, unless anyone else has any better ideas.

Regards, thanks for the tips.

Owned this car since Feb, just wetting my feet with working on it.

Other experisence... Thunderbird SC Headgaskets, Thunderbird heater Core twice (dash out), 71 Mustang re-engine convert to full fuel injection/5Spd Hydraulic Clutch.

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Where you are at right now, I'd get a bit a little larger than the bolt. You won't have to drill the entire bolt, once you get the head drill on both you can tap it with a chizel and it will fall apart.

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I use this:

CP-874.jpg

But this would be in a shop setting w/ good air...

a drill works with more paitence.

I'm curious: How do you go about using a cutoff wheel to cut through the ignition lock? What exactly do you use?

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I use this:

CP-874.jpg

But this would be in a shop setting w/ good air...

a drill works with more paitence.

Hmmm maybe I'll get my favourite sawzall out.

Yes come to think of it I can cut anything I want out of the bottom portion being replaced, I just don't want to shatter or damage the top mount - it would make the job alot bigger.

I'll take my time with a dremel, and or drill on the untouched side - will take less time than damaging the part on the column.

Thanks

One thougth - people call them break away bolts, I think they are actually anti theft bolts, otherwise a crafty car theif could bring their own ignition assembly and some minor tools and quickly change it out and drive the car away if the two mounting bolts were say torx type.

Pete

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All apart now,

Can the ignition lock cylinder be replaced in the body to preserve my original key, or is it the tumblers which actually fail?

Is the horn contact ring available aftermarket? Mine is held on by 1 or 3 screws.

Thanks

Peter

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All apart now,

Can the ignition lock cylinder be replaced in the body to preserve my original key, or is it the tumblers which actually fail?

Is the horn contact ring available aftermarket? Mine is held on by 1 or 3 screws.

Thanks

Peter

Nope, the entire cylinder, body and all needs to be replaced. I called the dealer with my VIN and got one that was pre-keyed, so I did not need a different key.

Doubtful you will find the horn ring aftermarket, but good luck searching. :D

BB

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