10 replies to this topic

[bbalicki]

The driver's side ball joint is gone on my 1997 850. Haynes says that I need to replace the entire lower control arm - so, that's what I'm going to do. A few questions before I start for those who have gone through this before.

1. Is it as easy as it looks?
2. Haynes mentions an "angle tightening method" and stipulates 120 degrees after the initial tightening. I assume this is just cranking the bolt another 1/3 of a turn. Also, it says to use an angle measurement tool - do I really need that?
3. Parts - IPD lists the part for $123.00 on sale, brand unknown. Volvo Parts Direct has a Meyle unit for around $90.00. Has anybody had any experience buying this part from either one of these suppliers?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-Bill

[850 Stylzz]

as far as parts, you can get Scantech from FCP or EEuro for like 75 a piece.

Does anyone know who the OEM supplier is?

[volvolove]

It is very easy to replace. However, sometimes the ball joint tends to get stuck in the spindle - even the retaining bolt gets stuck in there. So, make sure you have your BFH (Big Freakin Hammer) and or air hammer. Other than that, just pull the two pivot bolts off the subframe and pry the A-arm out with a prybar, or long screwdriver. Good luck. You can do it.

[Bay13]

Raise the car up and use jack stands on the sub frame. Remove the wheels. Take the control arm off of the sub frame first. The bolt head is a 15mm and the nut is 18mm. Once both are out pry the contol arm out of the sub frame, it should hang down by the ball joint now. The ball joint is held with a 13mm bolt head and 15mm nut. This one is hard to get out sometimes. Once the bolt is out I use a large chisel to wedge it in and spread the spindle a bit so the ball joint will drop out easier, then I tap it out with a hammer, it also makes it easier to slide the new one in. Assemble in rev order. Mark off the 1/3 or 120 degrees and tighten, no need to get the gauge.

[token ring man]

I just did this on Saturday. The problem I had was that the mounting brackets on the chassis were bent inwards slightly, no doubt from the 10,000 ft-lbs of torque they used at the factory, making replacement impossible. I used a large crescent wrench on the metal and straightened them. Once I did that, the new ones slipped right in.

I used a medium sized screwdriver to pry the split retraining the ball joint and a large screwdriver to pry the ball joint out. Use some PBlaster on the bolts as well.

Check your brake pads while you're in there.

Raise the lower control arm and then tighten the chassis bolts. If you tightend them while the lower control arm is down, the bushings could go bad earlier than later. I'm sure Rich will tell you 'so what', but that's what I did.

18mm, what a PITA size.

I watched the master, Rich, do his magic on my car one time. He had a 1/2" drive, 18" long handled ratched with a flexible head. What a great tool. I bought one and now use it regularly.

[bbalicki]

Thanks to all for your feedback.

Rich - having the socket sizes ahead of time is a huge help. I don't think I have an 18mm socket, so I'll have to go out and buy one.

Token Ring Man - Haynes says to do the final tightening of the chassis bolts with the car down on its wheels. Is this what you were referring to in the last part of your message?

Finally - It appears that Pblaster is the way to go to free up the bolts. Does anybody know where I can buy it?

Thanks again,

-Bill

[Bay13]

You don't need an 18mm socket, use a 18mm wrench to hold the nut and a 15mm socket to work the bolt loose.

[token ring man]

Token Ring Man - Haynes says to do the final tightening of the chassis bolts with the car down on its wheels.  Is this what you were referring to in the last part of your message?

When you have the wheels off, you will notice the steering stop as part of the caliper bracket. I raised one side using the stop and then tightened the bolts. You could put the jack under to lower contol arm and raise it that way.

[bbalicki]

Bought a Scan Tech lower control arm from FCP Groton yesterday for around $80 (shipped). Seemed like a pretty good deal. The guy on the phone said there was really no difference between the Scan Tech and Meyle units, even though the Meyle was more expensive.

Anyway, I'm going to try and get it in this weekend. Thanks again for all your help.

-Bill

[jb7073]

Seems like all of your other questions were answered, so I'll answer this one:

Finally - It appears that Pblaster is the way to go to free up the bolts. Does anybody know where I can buy it?

I've found it at just the local Advance Auto store. Probably can buy it at most parts shops, or possibly even hardware stores. IPD has it too, if you can't find it anywhere locally.