Factory 6 Pin Din To Rca Preouts Writeup


crazykn

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Okay, i've decided to redo AnthonyR's Factory Deck to RCA preouts. I've decided to use online electronic parts distributors, because i heard a rumor that radioshack is no longer going to carry a parts department in the near future. Plus ordering it from a distributor is much cheaper and higher in quality.

Parts needed: (ordered from www.mouser.com)

Part#

17HR806 - 6 Pin DIN Connector ($1.36)

161-4356-E - Red Banded Female RCA connector ($0.66)

161-4357-E - Whitre Banded Female RCA connector ($0.66)

Total cost (without shipping): $2.68

This is under the assumption that you have some wire (22 gauge used here), and a soldering iron and solder, and tools.

Lets begin:

First off lay out your parts and make sure you have everything you'll need:

SuppliesSmall.jpg

Next step is to cut 4 wires (2 Red and 2 Black) about 1 foot. Make another wire which will be used for the amp remote turn on, make that one longer (so you won't confuse it later). Strip the wire about 1/4 inch on both ends of all 4 wires. The power wire, just strip one end (so won't confuse yourself later).

wireprepSmall.jpg

Okay, now take the DIN connector the black piece with all the connectors and look at it carefully, here is the pinout which will be very important later:

PinoutlabelSmall.jpg

Now fire up your soldering iron and get ready to solder. The first wires we will solder is the two signal ground wires to the singal ground pin:

groundwireSmall.jpg

Next is the amp turn on remote wire, solder that to the corresponding pin. Remember to use the longer wire and you should label it.

powerwireSmall.jpg

Next is the right signal. If you haven't noticed, the signals that is outlined in this write up are feeding off the FRONT fader not the rear. Solder that wire in to the corresponding pin. Label this wire with a tape, to remember that this is the right RCA signal

rightsignalSmall.jpg

Next wire is the left signal wire, but i won't post a pic here, so just solder that to the corresponding pin. Remember to label the wire.

Alright, now let assemble the shell of the DIN connector:

Snap the two metal pieces the came with the DIN assembly together. They are keyed (or slotted) so they only fit one way. This should be the result:

completedshellSmall.jpg

Then clamp down the wire clamp to 'lock' in the wires:

shellSmall.jpg

Slide the plastic boot from the other end in.

DinbootSmall.jpg

Now slide the shell into the plastic boot, be sure to line up the locking pin on the shell with the hole on the plastic boot:

slideitonSmall.jpg

There you finished the DIN plug and half way through the project:

completedDINSmall.jpg

Lets take a break. From here you have a special option, you can now do a twisted pair configuration by twisting the red and black wires together (ie. left pair and right pairs) or simply leave it as is. It's much harder to twist the wires together after finishing the project, so if you want to do it, do it now.

Lets continue:

Now we do the RCA connector: Lay out your parts and get them ready. The RCA connector with the white band is the LEFT connector and therefore should be soldered to the LEFT Signal wire and one of the black GROUND wire from the DIN connector:

RCAprepSmall.jpg

Lets get started on the RCA connector:

We'll do the left pair first.

VERY IMPORTANT (because I made a few mistakes)Unscrew the boot and slide it in the wires:

insertbootSmall.jpg

Solder the red wire to the center lug and the black wire to the taller or off to the side lug.

signalandgroundRCAcompletedSmall.jpg

Be sure to clamp down on the wire 'lock', then screw the plastic boot back on.

completedRCASmall.jpg

Now repeat the same with the other pair or the right pair. I won't provide pics, but its the same.

When thats done, enjoy your product!:

CompletedSmall.jpg

Remember the lone red wire is the remote amp turn on wire.

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UPDATE:

The part numbers for the RCA plugs are for a NON STOCKED inventory.

This should be the correct numbers for the ones in stock.

161-4356 - Red Banded Female RCA connector ($0.66)

161-4357 - White Banded Female RCA connector ($0.66)

Secondly, I forgot to mention the reason why I choose plastic connectors. Besides economy, it does have a functional purpose. The RCA Jacks should NEVER be metal in this application. A metal shelled RCA connector has it shield pin (or where the black wire is tied) tied to it (unless you find a isolated one, which is very rare). If that shell were to come in contact with any metal parts of the car's body (which behind the radio there is bare metal exposed). The signal will short to the car's ground (and not audio ground, there is a difference), causing all sorts of disturbances and possibly equipment damage. The same may or maynot apply to the DIN connector, because the external metal shell is usually tied to nothing, it just depends on the design of the connector.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, I'm new to the board here, but this looks like something I want to do so I can plug in my iPod to my SC816 factory head unit (radio/CD). The CD changer port on the SC-816 has an 8 pin din connector. Does anyone know which pins are the right/left signals and ground?

Great pictures!

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Hi, I'm new to the board here, but this looks like something I want to do so I can plug in my iPod to my SC816 factory head unit (radio/CD). The CD changer port on the SC-816 has an 8 pin din connector. Does anyone know which pins are the right/left signals and ground?

This is for taking an AuxOut signal from the factory head unit to an external amplifier.

pa11-vol_m.jpg

What you want to do is add an AuxIn from an external source to the head unit. Unforunatly, there is a logic signal that controls the disk #, track #, and FF/RW commands, so you cant just solder in some RCA connectors. What you need is a box by USA-SPEC called the PA11 that emulates this logic signal. It has an Ipod direct cable that lets you control any iPod with a dock connector through the head unit, and it has an AuxIn cable that lets you connect anything else, like another brand MP3 Player, or iPod shuffle. It is around $100 and connects one of two ways:

If you have a '01-'05 (except s40, which is '01-'04) You'll need the PA11-VOL that works with the HU head units (HU-450/650/850 etc), which is $107 here: http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/PA11VOL.html See detailed compatibility here: http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=726

Or if you have a '94 - '20 modle, youll need the PA11-HON that works with the SC head units (SC-710, SC-810, SC-811, SC-813, SC-816, SC-901 etc ), which is $107 here: http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/PA11HON.html

This works perfectly for any stock system, and provides a clean way to perfectly interface XM, Sirius, or an iPod into the stock Volvo head unit. I personally have one of these for my XM, and it works perfectly, 1000x better then a tape adapter or FM transmitter.

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