6 replies to this topic

[downsmith]

I took my wagon into the stealer for a recall repair on the fuel tank. I asked him to locate a leak in the front of the engine and he said thus:

Turbo drain leak: I already have the parts to fix that....
Rear Cam Seal, $210.00: Does anyone have any advise on DYI?
Upper oil cooler line at front of engine, $335.34: Recommends replacement of o-ring, too. Does anyone have any advise on DYI?
Outer CV Boot split and leaking, $352.00.

I am a pretty good shadetree mechanic but I need to hear from others with experience on these....

Thanks for the input!

[James100]

I got an outer CV boot done at "Brake Masters" a chain for a 94' 850 turbo. Total was $83.00. Its still fine almost 3 years later. Your dealer will make you go broke. I would look around for alternative repair shops in your area. Im sure you need the money more than your Volvo dealer. Call around and you will save money. Its unbelievable that brakemasters is $83 and your dealer is $352!!!!!

For cv boot repair- Look in local paper for car repair advertisments. Where I live they have specials on cv boot repairs. Call them up and see what they charge. Most places seem to want to charge a little more than the ad when they hear you have a Volvo. At least they do in L. A.

Edited by James100, 06 January 2006 - 06:09 AM.

[Pauloil]

you could get new axles at Raxles.com for about the same cost and diy. the 36mm wheel nut is not that hard to break. read in the maint. section about the sheel bearing, and that will give you an idea on the axles. the turbo seal shouldn't be that hard and it is easy to pull the oil cooler lines from the radiator and put on new Os. your can get new parts for these lines at Eeuroparts.com. I'd let them do the cam seal if it truly leaking. You might find an indy mech who would work cheaper than the dealer and use your parts from the internet. I know a good one in West. Illinois(aledo, Ill.) if you're interested.

[Martin.Roberts]

I just replaced both of my oil cooler lines due to one of them was leaking where the hose is crimped to the steel line. I would take a close look at both lines and see if yours are leaking there also. I read on another thread that Volvo recommends replacement after 7 years. Each hose cost me about $90 from FCPGroton. If you do order them be sure and order the Orings that go into the block since they do not come with the oil lines. The new oil lines do come with all Orings and seals for where it plugs into the radiator. If your lines are Ok and it is just the Orings where the lines go into the block then you will just replace the Orings. It took me about 2 hours to change both oil lines. The hardest part for me was getting the bolt out that holds the two lines to the block about six inches back from where they go into the block. I finally found an adapter that will let you use a boxend wrench on a 1/4" 10mm socket. The problem is that the A/C compressor is in the way when you try to use a rachet on the socket. To get the torx screw out where the lines go into the block I used a 1/4" torx bit with a short solid extension with a 6" 1/4" flex shaft extension on that to be able to get the rachet in a position to turn it. You will also need to remove the passenger side tire and bend up the fender liner to get to the place where the lines plug into the block. If I ever have to do this again it should take less than an hour since now I know which tools to use and how it all goes together.

[bryan g]

I just replaced both of my oil cooler lines due to one of them was leaking where the hose is crimped to the steel line. I would take a close look at both lines and see if yours are leaking there also. I read on another thread that Volvo recommends replacement after 7 years. Each hose cost me about $90 from FCPGroton. If you do order them be sure and order the Orings that go into the block since they do not come with the oil lines. The new oil lines do come with all Orings and seals for where it plugs into the radiator. If your lines are Ok and it is just the Orings where the lines go into the block then you will just replace the Orings. It took me about 2 hours to change both oil lines. The hardest part for me was getting the bolt out that holds the two lines to the block about six inches back from where they go into the block. I finally found an adapter that will let you use a boxend wrench on a 1/4" 10mm socket. The problem is that the A/C compressor is in the way when you try to use a rachet on the socket. To get the torx screw out where the lines go into the block I used a 1/4" torx bit with a short solid extension with a 6" 1/4" flex shaft extension on that to be able to get the rachet in a position to turn it. You will also need to remove the passenger side tire and bend up the fender liner to get to the place where the lines plug into the block. If I ever have to do this again it should take less than an hour since now I know which tools to use and how it all goes together.

One extra note, I found another post that suggests removing the 2 14mm bolts that hold the lower motor mount on and lift the motor slightly to gain more access to this area.

See here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=22677

[NateB]

Much appreciated for the links !!

Seems I asked the guru Rich Kelly a few months back and , as usual, Rich provided great detailed instructions.

Sure miss Rich - hope he is reading!

Thanks guys!

[downsmith]

Bump