Having read great reviews on IPD anti sway bars I got to buying a pair for my 850 T5.
My question is regarding fitting them to the car. I dont have access to a lift or ramp to lift the car off the ground. I'm wondering whether I can get away with a trolley jack for the lifting?
Anybody done it this low tech way? Any angle on the practicality or safety of this method is of interest.
Thanks.
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Mounting Ipd Anti Sway Bars
Started by lux850, Jan 25 2006 09:12 AM
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18 replies to this topic
#1
lux850
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 09:12 AM
Volvo 850 T5 Oct 96 US Export Model
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
#2
WhiteT5
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 12:27 PM
The rear bar is a piece of cake and can be done w/ jack and stands.
While the front bar is a good bit more difficult and time-consuming, it can be done w/o a lift. Some people have reported being able to fit the front bar w/o even lowering the subframe, but others have said that it is too tight of a fit. I did it the "right" way and lowered the rear of the subframe. To have the best control over this procedure, you'll either need a set of rhino ramps (the heavy duty ones) and a jack, or two jacks.
While the front bar is a good bit more difficult and time-consuming, it can be done w/o a lift. Some people have reported being able to fit the front bar w/o even lowering the subframe, but others have said that it is too tight of a fit. I did it the "right" way and lowered the rear of the subframe. To have the best control over this procedure, you'll either need a set of rhino ramps (the heavy duty ones) and a jack, or two jacks.
- Sean
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
#3
lux850
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 01:55 PM
QUOTE(WhiteT5 @ Jan 25 2006, 01:27 PM) 
The rear bar is a piece of cake and can be done w/ jack and stands.
While the front bar is a good bit more difficult and time-consuming, it can be done w/o a lift. Some people have reported being able to fit the front bar w/o even lowering the subframe, but others have said that it is too tight of a fit. I did it the "right" way and lowered the rear of the subframe. To have the best control over this procedure, you'll either need a set of rhino ramps (the heavy duty ones) and a jack, or two jacks.
While the front bar is a good bit more difficult and time-consuming, it can be done w/o a lift. Some people have reported being able to fit the front bar w/o even lowering the subframe, but others have said that it is too tight of a fit. I did it the "right" way and lowered the rear of the subframe. To have the best control over this procedure, you'll either need a set of rhino ramps (the heavy duty ones) and a jack, or two jacks.
Food for thought. I had the feeling it wouldnt be quite straight forward..
Rgds.
Volvo 850 T5 Oct 96 US Export Model
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
#4
Vitor
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 02:55 PM
WhiteT5 is right on the money.
I gave up on trying to squeeze the bar in (or take out the old one) without lowering the subframe. It was only a waste of time.
The same goes for the rack and pinion assy.
I gave up on trying to squeeze the bar in (or take out the old one) without lowering the subframe. It was only a waste of time.
The same goes for the rack and pinion assy.
'01 S60 2.4T, '99 S80 T6, '99 V70 XC, '96 850 GLT, '06 Lexus RX400h (mean mothe....)
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#5
Zappo
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 05:39 PM
QUOTE(lux850 @ Jan 25 2006, 01:12 AM)
Having read great reviews on IPD anti sway bars I got to buying a pair for my 850 T5.
My question is regarding fitting them to the car. I dont have access to a lift or ramp to lift the car off the ground. I'm wondering whether I can get away with a trolley jack for the lifting?
Anybody done it this low tech way? Any angle on the practicality or safety of this method is of interest.
Thanks.
My question is regarding fitting them to the car. I dont have access to a lift or ramp to lift the car off the ground. I'm wondering whether I can get away with a trolley jack for the lifting?
Anybody done it this low tech way? Any angle on the practicality or safety of this method is of interest.
Thanks.
You don't need ramps, but jack stands are a must.
#6
the underlørd
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 05:40 PM
QUOTE(Zappo @ Jan 25 2006, 09:39 AM)
You don't need ramps, but jack stands are a must.
didn't we swap the IPD rear bar from the S70 to the V70 without jackstands? I really thought we did...
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#7
Zappo
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 06:16 PM
QUOTE(the underlord @ Jan 25 2006, 09:40 AM)
didn't we swap the IPD rear bar from the S70 to the V70 without jackstands? I really thought we did...
yeah, you can do it with ramps, but the rear is easy compared to the front.
#8
the underlørd
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 06:17 PM
QUOTE(Zappo @ Jan 25 2006, 10:16 AM)
yeah, you can do it with ramps, but the rear is easy compared to the front.
word to that.
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#9
PullMyFinger
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 06:45 PM
Just fyi...the rear is only easy if you have a stock rear bar already. Mine was a real pain to do since I had no stock rear bar to begin with. The delta links are the same and the holes are all in place but you have to do a lot of bending and prying and scraping and chiseling of undercoating and what-not to fit it in the box end. Its totally doable, just an extra pain and takes more time.
#10
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:03 AM
Should you replace the subframe bolts, and where would the jack fit, under the lower subframe bar?
94 850 NA 200,000 miles, K&N air filter, Koni Struts & Shocks, IPD Sway Bars, Euro side lights
#11
KLS
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 06:55 PM
I had more trouble getting the rear bar in than the front. The front was just a lot of work. The rear didn't want to go, didn't want to go, didn't want to go...it slipped in. I had to loosen several of the rear suspension bolts...they are really tight, and must be retightened just as tight.
You'll need jackstands for the front, plus a way to support the engine subframe while it is loosened. A hydraulic floor jack did that for me. DO NOT go cheap and dangerous. Jackstands and a hydraulic floor jack don't cost much and are safe. There is no part on either you nor your car that you can get fixed for the cost of the jackstands and jack if the car falls.
After the sway bars are installed, you'll need a front and rear alignment. I like to add camber adjusters on the front and set them to -1° camber.
The IPD sway bars are the single best improvement I've done on the car.
Ken
You'll need jackstands for the front, plus a way to support the engine subframe while it is loosened. A hydraulic floor jack did that for me. DO NOT go cheap and dangerous. Jackstands and a hydraulic floor jack don't cost much and are safe. There is no part on either you nor your car that you can get fixed for the cost of the jackstands and jack if the car falls.
After the sway bars are installed, you'll need a front and rear alignment. I like to add camber adjusters on the front and set them to -1° camber.
The IPD sway bars are the single best improvement I've done on the car.
Ken
Edited by KLS, 27 January 2006 - 06:57 PM.
#12
lux850
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Posted 16 February 2006 - 03:52 PM
QUOTE(KLS @ Jan 27 2006, 07:55 PM)
I had more trouble getting the rear bar in than the front. The front was just a lot of work. The rear didn't want to go, didn't want to go, didn't want to go...it slipped in. I had to loosen several of the rear suspension bolts...they are really tight, and must be retightened just as tight.
You'll need jackstands for the front, plus a way to support the engine subframe while it is loosened. A hydraulic floor jack did that for me. DO NOT go cheap and dangerous. Jackstands and a hydraulic floor jack don't cost much and are safe. There is no part on either you nor your car that you can get fixed for the cost of the jackstands and jack if the car falls.
After the sway bars are installed, you'll need a front and rear alignment. I like to add camber adjusters on the front and set them to -1° camber.
The IPD sway bars are the single best improvement I've done on the car.
Ken
You'll need jackstands for the front, plus a way to support the engine subframe while it is loosened. A hydraulic floor jack did that for me. DO NOT go cheap and dangerous. Jackstands and a hydraulic floor jack don't cost much and are safe. There is no part on either you nor your car that you can get fixed for the cost of the jackstands and jack if the car falls.
After the sway bars are installed, you'll need a front and rear alignment. I like to add camber adjusters on the front and set them to -1° camber.
The IPD sway bars are the single best improvement I've done on the car.
Ken
Thank you gents. Good to know what is ahead!
Volvo 850 T5 Oct 96 US Export Model
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
#13
lux850
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 04:43 PM
QUOTE(lux850 @ Feb 16 2006, 04:52 PM)
Thank you gents. Good to know what is ahead!
Gents, which tools are needed to lower the subframe? Does this require specialist volvo sockets?
I booked my car into my local garage and they took just 2 minutes to look and tell me they couldnt do the job cos they didnt have the tool(s) to lower it. Thanks.
Volvo 850 T5 Oct 96 US Export Model
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
Polar White, 95K Miles, IPD Anti Swaybars, Bilstein Schocks,
Eibach pro street kit springs, Black Diamnond drilled, slotted front disks,
Black Diamond Predator brake pads, Luxembourg.
#14
Superstitious-hyperrealist
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 06:06 PM
just another quick question on installing the rear bar on a car that did not come with it. where do i get the nuts and bolts? can i get them at a hardware store or is it a dealer thing? i called groton and they don't carry them. anyone?
95' 855 ST chip, 80' 262c V8
#15
Patrick.
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 06:28 PM
QUOTE(lux850 @ Mar 18 2006, 11:43 AM)
I booked my car into my local garage and they took just 2 minutes to look and tell me they couldnt do the job cos they didnt have the tool(s) to lower it.
what useless bunch of idiots!
#16
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 08:47 PM
QUOTE(the underlord @ Jan 25 2006, 10:40 AM)
didn't we swap the IPD rear bar from the S70 to the V70 without jackstands? I really thought we did...
Would it be a factor of the condition of the engine mounts? I replaced both hydraulic mounts and the bracket on the passenger side after all three were totally blown. Not only did it drive much smoother, but I picked up a good 1/2" of additional clearance between the motor and the subframe.
QUOTE(lux850 @ Mar 18 2006, 09:43 AM)
Gents, which tools are needed to lower the subframe? Does this require specialist volvo sockets?
I booked my car into my local garage and they took just 2 minutes to look and tell me they couldnt do the job cos they didnt have the tool(s) to lower it. Thanks.
I booked my car into my local garage and they took just 2 minutes to look and tell me they couldnt do the job cos they didnt have the tool(s) to lower it. Thanks.
Wow. You're basically supporting the whole car, and then using another jack to push the motor up a bit to make room for the old bar to come out, and the new bar to go in. Unless Volvo makes a special "subframe jack" you just need to try another mechanic.
#17
MadeInJapan
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 09:11 PM
Volvo has them...believe they are a size #8 (metric of course, but not mm)....you can ask your dealer. Actually, I would ask them and then go to the autoparts store and get them cheaper (get the bolts and nuts as a pair and then you'll know they'll fit, except for the endlinks, but you should have the hardware for that anyway. You don't want to go the hardware store route due to the threading. Also, if anyone has gotten IPD's newest nuts that are teflon on the inside, keep an eye on them. I had their swaybars put in my wife's '04 V70 and the next day there was rattling all over the front end. It was these nuts from their endlinks that had backed themselves off. Really cinch them down too and use lock nut.
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#18 Guest_Guest_*
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Posted 23 March 2006 - 07:57 AM
QUOTE(MadeInJapan @ Mar 18 2006, 09:11 PM)
Volvo has them...believe they are a size #8 (metric of course, but not mm)....you can ask your dealer. Actually, I would ask them and then go to the autoparts store and get them cheaper (get the bolts and nuts as a pair and then you'll know they'll fit, except for the endlinks, but you should have the hardware for that anyway. You don't want to go the hardware store route due to the threading. Also, if anyone has gotten IPD's newest nuts that are teflon on the inside, keep an eye on them. I had their swaybars put in my wife's '04 V70 and the next day there was rattling all over the front end. It was these nuts from their endlinks that had backed themselves off. Really cinch them down too and use lock nut.
Thanks. I will see how cooperative our local volvo dealer is. They're generally not so helpful in these parts, particularly when you dont give em the business..too bad I say!
#19
KLS
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Posted 23 March 2006 - 08:58 PM
I lowered and replaced the subframe using ordinary tools. The weight of the engine is on the subframe, so that must be safely supported and lifted back into place after the bar is in. Because the subframe carries the steering rack, an alignment is needed immedately after the bar installation. The rear also need an immediate alignment because the bolts there are loosened and retightened.
Ken
Ken
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