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#21 VOLVO850SB

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:34 PM

QUOTE(AlvinL @ Mar 7 2006, 04:24 PM) View Post
Are you handy? If you are then you'd be way ahead as you'd be able to look after your car and save a bundle. Read up Bay13, read the codes, reset and see if any comes back after a short drive. That would definitley clear up the questions for the PNP, knock sensors, speed sensors, and oxygen sensors. Or at least buy you some time if the error codes for those items doesn't reappear. I'm guessing the speed sensor is the ABS sensor so if the ABS light is on, the ABS won't work. The code, when you read it, will indicate which sensor is the problem. Maybe it just needs cleaning, which you can do.

If you're not handy, at least knowing how to read the codes, what they mean, will help protect you when you visit a mechanic. Only fix what needs fixing.

From your list, it looks like you'll need to fix the radiator first and get the transmission flushed. If you can, read the codes, reset, go for a short drive and post back here for us any codes that return. We'll help you figure it out. What wires need replacing?
For example, here's a pinned post on repairing the odometer.


I am not handy at all, but my husband is, so he'll be the one to fix the car up. If I get the radiator from the FCPGROTON website (it's a Nissen radiator, not a genuine Volvo part), and have it installed, would that be okay. Or would you pay the $725 to have it replaced by a Volvo dealership tech? Can't my husband do it himself?
'94 855 T5



#22 the underlørd

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:35 PM

QUOTE(VOLVO850SB @ Mar 7 2006, 08:34 AM) View Post
I am not handy at all, but my husband is, so he'll be the one to fix the car up. If I get the radiator from the FCPGROTON website (it's a Nissen radiator, not a genuine Volvo part), and have it installed, would that be okay. Or would you pay the $725 to have it replaced by a Volvo dealership tech? Can't my husband do it himself?


I don't know your husband, but, Yes. Yes he can it's not hard.

2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.


#23 Guest_AlvinL_*

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:41 PM

I just realized that I probably messed up in my earlier reply. The speed sensor is probably why the speedometer is not working and not the odometer gear. There probably will be a trouble code for the instrument cluster to confirm that.

#24 Plan_B

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:11 PM

QUOTE(the underlord @ Mar 7 2006, 09:09 AM) View Post
you are the king of bold posting.


and honestly, the people on this site are relative do it your selfers, they've come to the right place... why ya gotta try to scare 'em? you own a indi shop or something?

it's a RADIATOR... get a haynes manual, and go to town..
did you just say that?



laugh.gif laugh.gif
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#25 erikv11

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:13 PM

QUOTE(VOLVO850SB @ Mar 7 2006, 10:34 AM) View Post
I am not handy at all, but my husband is, so he'll be the one to fix the car up. If I get the radiator from the FCPGROTON website (it's a Nissen radiator, not a genuine Volvo part), and have it installed, would that be okay. Or would you pay the $725 to have it replaced by a Volvo dealership tech? Can't my husband do it himself?


Nissen is a quality radiator and the brand that most here use for replacement on these 100k+ 850s, unless they are racing types and want an all aluminum radiator or something. (EDIT) Nissen is not the OEM (Volvo) radiator, but it is probaly fine to install it; check the recent thread here that has information on Nissens vs. OEM radiators.

If you search this forum for radiator replacement you'll find hundreds of links like this one, read a few and you (or your husband if he's doing the job) will be good to go. There is a posted step-by-step for 850 turbo, radiator replacement at Bay13, it is linked in that thread above. Look at it and you can decide if this job is too hard for you. Haynes shop manual ($13) is very useful, will save its cost on almost any first job.

Radiator appears to be not that hard (haven't done it myself) and the other repairs on that list of yours, are all even easier if they end up needing to be done.

your '94 is not such an old car if you maintain it, it will drive a long time.

Edited by erikv11, 07 March 2006 - 06:53 PM.

'96 855 NA | 207k | Bilstein TC | R sway bars | QBM links | runs great parts car
'96 NA 855 | 99 k | daily driver
'95 R 854 | 177 k | project, not running

#26 Che'_Moderator

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:19 PM

QUOTE(James100 @ Mar 7 2006, 11:05 AM) View Post
[b]The car was obviously engineered to be hard to work on on purpose thats why everybody comes here looking for answers to find out how to fix problems.


Everyone knows when engneering a system you should keep it as complex as you can. WTF

For the radiator after-markte nissan is fine. Installation is about as hard as installing something like a sprinkler system. If you can follow instructions your fine. O2s are very easy. Un-screw unplug, screw in plug in, done. You can buy both front and rear o2s at autozone. Get the terminated ones. Figure 130ish for the front, I would replace it before the rear. PNP and Knock you will have to order. They are both a pain but not hard. Just go one piece at a time and its not that bad. Welcome to the site

#27 javadoc

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:38 PM

Really, a radiator swap-out is not overly difficult. I'd give it a 2.5 wrenches on a 5 wrench scale, and there are no special tools needed really. It'd probably take an afternoon if you've never done something like that before, but I'd do it in the morning, in case you bugger something up, then you can run to the parts store for that hose or clamp that you need.

Nothing on these cars is really that complex, and when you get into it you can generally see the good logic in the designs.


If you can change an axle-shaft or the brakes on these cars, a radiator's not beyond your grasp.
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#28 ToxicLemonade

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:39 PM

seriously, i would find the leak and hit it with some JBweld if you cannot afford it. I have the money to fix the problems wtih my car, but i have had friends who Jbwelded their radiators and they held fine. might save you a good bit of money to get her rolling, than later down the road you can do it the "right" way. just a suggestion.
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#29 the underlørd

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:49 PM

tup.gif

you win the prize dude...

let's get this back on topic..

2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.


#30 Guest_Guest_FATMANSAM_*_*

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Posted 08 March 2006 - 03:09 AM

OK, People lets all mellow,

Let me start by saying that I have owned over 8 different volvos. And I would rather have a volvo than almost any other car( see Ferrari, Ha Ha). Seriously, unless your car has a seized engine you are all aces.
First things first. Change the oil and flush the tranny and cooling system. patch TEMPORARILY with j b weld, then drive it a little ( 15-30 miles) now let it cool down. After an hour or so check the oil on the dip stick. If it looks like milk you have a bad head gasket, still not a giant problem. if it is still clean start the car and let it idle while it idles pull the oil stick and listen for air escaping and oil coming out of the stick holder. if you don`t hear an air leak you are all good. now get a haynes shop manual or a volvo dealership repair manual(very hard to get but check Ebay). Now take everything slow. Take your car to an autozone or parts store that will let you use or rent a OBD II scanner and check your codes. then clear them. now drive your car. if codes come back find a good repair shop. Ask any volvo owner in your area and they should tell you about their mechanic. This is how I found all my mechanics. Remember there are 2 kinds of volvo owners. 1. uptight morons that spend a fortune on maint. and repairs at the dealer and 2. true volvo lovers that either have a GREAT mechanic or wrench on it themselves. I hope you fall in love with your brick ( term for volvos) the way I love mine. If I can help let me know. if you are in colorado or florida I know a couple of great shops.

Happy Driving.

P.S. if it is turbo your gonna have a blast!!!
bye.

#31 Guest_Guest_Dougjones_*_*

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 08:10 PM

GO to www.ipdusa.com. They have a kit for 50.00 to fix the odometer. I just got my tranny fluid replaced for 25.00 from an independent shop. They can't get all the fluid replaced because of the placement of the drive train. But IPD has a kit for that also if you like. The Bosch tune-up kit is 66.00 from IPD with replaces most of the wires. O2 sensors can be purchased from 100.00 to 200.00 bucks each and are a snap to screw in. Radiators from IPD are 285.00 and hoses are like 20.00 each. The other parts can be had from PCF GROTON and or www.eurosporttuning.com.

I am not telling you go do the work yourself or not to just sell the car. I have a non Turbo 1995 850GLT with 130K miles. I plan on driving DAS TANK for the next six years or 120K miles just because I don't feel like car payments. Unless there is a catastraphic failure.


Then I am buying a turbo V70Awd

#32 Milo

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Posted 02 April 2006 - 09:19 PM

You are in luck because you have a 1994 which can use the OBDII but you can find all the codes on the OBDI panel without needing an OBDII reader.
1995 855T 298k (sold) :(
2006 V70 2.5T 148k




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