Fuel Pumps - Please Give An Opinion
#1
Posted 14 March 2006 - 04:07 PM
I have searched the forum extensively, and I have seen references to several pumps, but not necessarily in the context of what works well, what's easy to install, and what the main differences are between them (and why the prices are so different).
The three I'm looking at are Walbro, Hella, and Bosch. I've heard the Walbros are loud, but that's about it. Can those who have installed one of these aftermarket pumps give an opinion?
Thanks!
#2 Guest_AlvinL_*
Posted 14 March 2006 - 04:21 PM
#3
Posted 14 March 2006 - 04:38 PM
i don't think they're loud.. been in wagons and sedans with them, don't seem that noticeable to me, and their cost of around 100 bucks.. can't beat that.
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#4
Posted 14 March 2006 - 04:46 PM
i don't think they're loud.. been in wagons and sedans with them, don't seem that noticeable to me, and their cost of around 100 bucks.. can't beat that.
Thanks - I was referring to this thread:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=34299
Perhaps they just got a faulty Walbro pump? Any suggestions as to the best priced place to buy one? The price seems good.
#5
Posted 14 March 2006 - 04:48 PM
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=34299
Perhaps they just got a faulty Walbro pump? Any suggestions as to the best priced place to buy one? The price seems good.
that's tendency.. take that thread with a huge grain of salt..
this is the thread you need to read.
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#7
Posted 14 March 2006 - 05:00 PM
no problem
I'd just score the 190 for what you're looking to accomplish.. Dougs' write up is super easy to follow, answers some of the noise questions, and should save you tons of money over a OEM pump.
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#8 Guest_Guest_*
Posted 14 March 2006 - 05:06 PM
I'd just score the 190 for what you're looking to accomplish.. Dougs' write up is super easy to follow, answers some of the noise questions, and should save you tons of money over a OEM pump.
I'll see if I can track one down (any sugestions?) - it's absurd to think that my Volvo mechanic quoted me $600 to put in a new pump! Thanks!
#9
Posted 14 March 2006 - 05:12 PM
85 dollars
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
#10 Guest_Guest_*
Posted 14 March 2006 - 10:21 PM
Very nice - gotta love the web...
Thanks again for your help!
#12
Posted 15 March 2006 - 01:37 AM
#13
Posted 15 March 2006 - 01:48 AM
Since you seem to have a good bit of experience changing out these things, are there any additional recommendations you would make in order to safely swap out the fuel pump - beyond unplugging the negative battery terminal and relieving pressure in the fuel system? And, of course, excellent ventilation, etc.
Just want to make sure I don't blow myself up...
#14
Posted 17 March 2006 - 05:17 PM
Alex
'98 V70R AWD FWD - M56L - 19T - TT - RICA - 17" Team Dynamics Motorsport - Pro Race 1.2 - 18" Pegs - CJ Porsche 993TT BBK - CarPc
#15
Posted 17 March 2006 - 05:33 PM
Thanks James
I sprayed down the ring with some WD-40 to minimize the friction of the plastic on plastic.
I then used a fat prybar and a few light taps of a rubber mallet to get the ring off.
--Alex
I'm posting this in the thread because it may be useful to someone else.
Alex
'98 V70R AWD FWD - M56L - 19T - TT - RICA - 17" Team Dynamics Motorsport - Pro Race 1.2 - 18" Pegs - CJ Porsche 993TT BBK - CarPc
#16
Posted 17 March 2006 - 05:49 PM
I used a pair of 14" needle nose pliers (they are big) put 90 degrees to the ring and touching the ribs. Then twist with some force....I did not want to hit it with a mallet for fear the neck of the tank might possibly crack.......
[Autometer Sport/Comp boost gauge] [Silicone Vacuum Hoses][Magnefine PS Filter]
[IPD Torque Rod Mount] [Yokohama YK520][IPD HD-Links]
[Walbro Fuel Pump 5CA3351-1 160K] [PCV System + Air Intake Hose 160K]
[Magnaflow Cat 94105 160K ][Injectors Cleaned/Rebuilt 160k][Motive Brake Fluid Flush]
________________________________________________________________________________
Check Engine Codes OBDI
Resetting CEL and Service Light
Stage 0
PCV Pics
#17 Guest_AlvinL_*
Posted 17 March 2006 - 06:48 PM
Since you seem to have a good bit of experience changing out these things, are there any additional recommendations you would make in order to safely swap out the fuel pump - beyond unplugging the negative battery terminal and relieving pressure in the fuel system? And, of course, excellent ventilation, etc.
Just want to make sure I don't blow myself up...
Make sure you keep yourself electrostatically discharged with the car. Make sure you touch a metal part of the car before you pull the pump out and ground yourself before getting back in the car with the new pump. Don't cause any electrostatic spark anywhere near that fuel tank opening.
Ever see those video of fuel pump fill-ups that go wrong when the owner walks away while the car is filling up, only to come back later and causing a fire when a spark from static electricity occurs when he touches the nozzle?
#18
Posted 17 March 2006 - 07:26 PM
I found that having a decent sized fan blowing fresh air into the rear of my wagon with the passenger doors open kept the fumes to a minimum.
I will advise you to be gentle with the fuel line connectors. Pry carefully and very straight up. They will come out fairly easily, and go back on really easily. But if you don't get them perfectly straight you can tear the o-rings inside. There are two in each and its a real PITA to replace, but it can be done. Ask me how I know.
You will want to have a small bit of fuel line handy, the piece that came with my Walbro was not long enough. By about an inch. Make sure you buy fuel-injection fuel line (high pressure) instead of the carb fuel line (low pressure). Yes there is a difference and yes it will fail, eventually.
I would vent any system fuel pressure before starting. You can use the valve right before the fuel filter. I would also replace the fuel filter while you're at it.
Another thing to consider is the fuel pump relay. Its life expectancy is close to that of the pump. Unfortunately it costs around $70 IIRC. Very simple to replace though. Remove torx bolts in fuse box, pull out old relay, press in new. Its clearly labeled with a number, I think its the red one.
My Walbro is *not* loud. I have to struggle to hear it at all. And I have a wagon.
After the install is complete, I would look closely at your fuel line connections, the fuel rail and the injectors especially. Look/smell for leaks. If anything was getting worn and about to go, it will go now that you have a higher flow pump. Particularly injector o-rings. Buy Slater's set for ten bucks.
Have fun
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users




This topic is locked











