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S70 Brake Problem


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#1 S70-T5SE

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 01:27 PM

I have a 1998 S70 T5 SE, Front Drive, ABS and TRACS system. My problem is that i have notice that the front wheels drag. It seems that the brakes are ever so slightly on, dragging the front wheels. If i have the car raised it seems that there is an effort required to spin the wheels/tires. The right (passenger)side is worse, I know this because i have notice a considerable temperature difference in that wheel- compared to the wheel on the left, after driving. I have looked at the hose, currently in process of changing it, caliper functions fine, pins lubed and caliper piston is relitevly easy to push back in ( no major force required). Now the part guy @ dealership said change the brake line hose and caliper. I dont think that will fix my issue. Now this is wierd to me cause the back tires are fine (spin freely) the front drag, right one alot. Only the right one seems to heat up considerably more so than the left one. He also said well after that change the master cylinder, here is were i am not sure. My brakes work fine, all of the other wheels retract pads just fine. If the master malfunctioned it would creat a steady brake pressure to all wheels. NOw usually brakes fail the other way, no brake pressure. But what can cause a caliper from not retracting. I have the hose off and it does not seem colapsed, brake fluid flows thru both way easily. Caliper piston can be pushed back with easy (use of a screw driver). I am mechanically inclined, but puzzeled at this time, before i go and change everything I could use some advice. Please Help.....
huh.gif huh.gif huh.gif



#2 Guest_AlvinL_*

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 01:55 PM

For the condition of the caliper, pull the pads off and check the condition of the piston seal looking for any rips or tears. Inside the caliper is a rubber piston seal ring. The cross-section of the ring is either square or rectangular and it normally rests in that postion. When you use the brakes, the piston is pushed out causing the ring to be non-square (parallelogram). When the brakes are relaxed, the ring goes back to being square and pulls the piston back. The piston slides along the seal ring as the pads wears. If the rubber seal is ripped, dirt and moisture gets in and will corrode the walls of the caliper/piston. This buildup will prevent the piston from retracting. If the rubber seal is somehow damaged, perhaps old or rubber deteriorated, it loses it ability to retract the piston.

Just a thought.

#3 S70-T5SE

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 02:04 PM

I have pulled the caliper and cleaned it, no visible tears and ripps in to rubber. I have a new caliper ready to go on but i dont think this will help. I still appreciate the suggestion (thought).
Thanx cool.gif

#4 BlackT5

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 03:59 PM

I have the exact same problem, but it's the drivers side front caliper that's dragging. Some days it's worse than others and it's much more noticable on the highway once it's warmed up.

I'm pulling it all apart on Friday. I'll try and get some pictures up.
1998 S70 T5M

Built motor, Nira i3+ EMS, GT35R, Tial 40mm Wastegate, Tial BOV, FMIC, 630cc injectors, 3" exhaust, Quaife diff, singlemass flywheel conversion, Spec stage III+..blah blah..

#5 Ceenit

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 06:18 PM

Sounds very much like a sticky caliper. You umight try doing a brake fluid flush to make sure there is no junk in the line wihc prevents the fluid from easily going in and out of the caliper. Other than that, it's new caliper time.
Chris
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#6 maiku

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 06:38 PM

i smell BBK

#7 550

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 06:44 PM

And I hear a waste of money.
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#8 S70-T5SE

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 08:34 PM

I was told by a couple of people that the caliper would be my first bet, some have mention that if that doesn't work or it could be the master cylinder. Any thoughts????

As far as the BBK what is a good kit, i look at the WP kit installed on a the wagon. Looks nice but really how much difference is there and as far as parts later on go what happens. As for the kit how much customizing is there. If it is reletively a straight replacement/bolt on kit. Then how much $$$$ and where???

#9 BlackT5

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:55 PM

I would go for the Porsche BBK, but you ned at least 17" wheels with spacers.

I'm going for the cheap brake fix for the moment and focus on getting my new turbo on the car.
1998 S70 T5M

Built motor, Nira i3+ EMS, GT35R, Tial 40mm Wastegate, Tial BOV, FMIC, 630cc injectors, 3" exhaust, Quaife diff, singlemass flywheel conversion, Spec stage III+..blah blah..

#10 S70-T5SE

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Posted 17 March 2006 - 01:16 AM

Well it wasn't the brake hose, I finally got around to changing the brake hose, in turn having to fix the brake line as well. It still seems to be heating up more on the passengers side than drivers. Question: should my front wheels spin freely with the car raised. They dont really free spin, there is an effort required to spin them. My bro;s S60 wheels spin easily and free spin for a few rotations.

#11 Ben H

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Posted 17 March 2006 - 02:51 AM

Hey

DO you have a noise coming from the breaks?

We are discussing my problems over here
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=44885

My fronts are also harder to spin then my rears.....but both are makeing noise.

Ben
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#12 Ceenit

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Posted 17 March 2006 - 02:57 AM

If the car is in neutral, the wheel should spin freely. Your comment that one side gets hot is an indication of friction somewhere...likely the caliper. Per the earlier notes, bleed the brakes (possible cheap fix), and if that doesn't work, put on a new/rebuilt caliper.
Chris
05 BMW 525
03 Acura MDX
94 Porsche 968 Cab
98 Volvo S70 T5 - Sold

#13 S70-T5SE

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Posted 17 March 2006 - 01:01 PM

Noise, yes only on the drivers side, when breaks are cold, once applied lightly. If i apply my breaks slightly harder the noise goes away. As far as pad life there is about 3/8"+ thickness of pads left.
I bleed both sides so far twice, to be exact, went through about 1.5L to bleed them. No bubbles, nice clean fluid was coming out. I think that i might have to pull the calipers off this w-kend and try spin the wheels, as well maybe change that caliper.

I heard of people putting on the 12" rotors with some hdrwre and stock calipers. Worth it and what is the difference is it a oem caliper bracket and 12" rotor that i could pick and install.???

#14 850-Turbo

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Posted 17 March 2006 - 08:45 PM

On these Volvos, are the caliper housings floating, as in single piston, or fixed? If it's a floating type, could your caliper housing be frozen or binding in the steering knuckle that even with the piston pushed in, the other pad is dragging on the rotor? I've seen this on older domestic cars in the olden days when things used to be much simpler.

Other things are maybe the proportioning valve doing something funky, or the ABS???
'95 850 Turbo Wagon

#15 BlackT5

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Posted 18 March 2006 - 01:03 AM

Pulled the caliper off today, the pistons was definately stiff.





I think we found the problem. A small tear on the rubber seal. Cleaned it up a bit and worked the piston in and out, it seemed to loosen up quite a bit. Took it for a drive and it seems to have temporarily solved the problem. Once it starts acting up again, I plan on replacing the caliper.




1998 S70 T5M

Built motor, Nira i3+ EMS, GT35R, Tial 40mm Wastegate, Tial BOV, FMIC, 630cc injectors, 3" exhaust, Quaife diff, singlemass flywheel conversion, Spec stage III+..blah blah..

#16 S70-T5SE

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 12:02 AM

Which Porsche BBK am i looking for. Where can i find it. Or what porsche caliper and rotor are we talking about. And what about the braket to mount the caliper. I really don't want a kit that i have to cut crap on my car. More or less a bolt on kit.
Anybody????

#17 BlackT5

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 12:57 AM

Like I said, you will need at least 17" wheels to run these. Nice brakes though smile.gif

http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/Merchant2/me..._Code=VL-S70-br

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-850-B...047941054QQrdZ1
1998 S70 T5M

Built motor, Nira i3+ EMS, GT35R, Tial 40mm Wastegate, Tial BOV, FMIC, 630cc injectors, 3" exhaust, Quaife diff, singlemass flywheel conversion, Spec stage III+..blah blah..

#18 bloc

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 04:21 PM

for the same money as the huge porsche kits, a stoptech kit will work significantly better.

the ebay kit doesnt include all of the parts, and like the ipd kit will upset the balance of the car dramaticly.
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#19 S70-T5SE

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:30 PM

Well Stoptech or Porsche BBK? Which one works better, reliable and easy for replacement parts. As for the balance issue, anybody who's done this what do they think any issues as far brake balance and control of vehicle.
What is missing from the Ebay kit that i should be worried about?

#20 BlackT5

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:53 PM

QUOTE(S70-T5SE @ Mar 20 2006, 09:30 AM) View Post
Well Stoptech or Porsche BBK? Which one works better, reliable and easy for replacement parts. As for the balance issue, anybody who's done this what do they think any issues as far brake balance and control of vehicle.
What is missing from the Ebay kit that i should be worried about?



Search the performance section, there are many discussions on BBKs
1998 S70 T5M

Built motor, Nira i3+ EMS, GT35R, Tial 40mm Wastegate, Tial BOV, FMIC, 630cc injectors, 3" exhaust, Quaife diff, singlemass flywheel conversion, Spec stage III+..blah blah..




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