16 replies to this topic

[98WhiteS70]

Im gonna install new spark plugs today on my 98' S70 GLT with 117,000 mi, just wondering is there anything i need to do to the plugs themselves or be careful of with the original ones out? Im sure nothings supposed to get down in there when the plus are out, but should i put anything on the threads of the plugs, or pretty straightforward switch em out? thanks.

[maiku]

make sure they're gapped correctly

[Patrick.]

you certainly don't want to get anything down in there. What plugs did you get? OEM are pretty much the way to go.

I personally don't put anything on the threads of my new plugs, I'm not sure if anyone else would recommend it.

[98WhiteS70]

you certainly don't want to get anything down in there. What plugs did you get? OEM are pretty much the way to go.

I personally don't put anything on the threads of my new plugs, I'm not sure if anyone else would recommend it.

Yeah i got 5 OEM plugs from FCP Groton so i assume theyre gapped correctly. And i wasnt planning on putting anything on the threads, just wondering if there was any advantage to it or something. But if not then thanks i appreciate it.

[pfeener]

A small dab of antisieze compound is recommended. Torque them to 18 ft/lbs, I would use the genuine Volvo plugs for turbos.

[PullMyFinger]

You are threading steel into an aluminum head, absolutely use anti-seize. Comes in a small tube like toothpaste, only costs a couple bucks.

You will want to have this handy and use it regularly on such things as the spark plug cover bolts, thermostat housing bolts, fuel rail bolts, throttle body bolts...get the idea? With an all aluminum motor, you need to be careful.

Definitely check the plug gap. They should come gapped already but even if the gap spec is what you want, check them anyway. Takes like 20 seconds and you'd be surprised at how often you find they are off.

[Patrick.]

Definitely check the plug gap. They should come gapped already but even if the gap spec is what you want, check them anyway. Takes like 20 seconds and you'd be surprised at how often you find they are off.

I check everytime, and they are off 1/2 of the time by a bit.

[98WhiteS70]

You are threading steel into an aluminum head, absolutely use anti-seize. Comes in a small tube like toothpaste, only costs a couple bucks.

You will want to have this handy and use it regularly on such things as the spark plug cover bolts, thermostat housing bolts, fuel rail bolts, throttle body bolts...get the idea? With an all aluminum motor, you need to be careful.

Definitely check the plug gap. They should come gapped already but even if the gap spec is what you want, check them anyway. Takes like 20 seconds and you'd be surprised at how often you find they are off.

Is there any particular kind of anti-seize i should buy? or does it all do the same thing?

[PullMyFinger]

I use two kinds, standard-temp which is like aluminum paste and high-temp which is a copper paste. I use the standard stuff on most things, good to like 1000¡F. Above that I use the copper, good to like 1800¡F. Things like manifold bolts, turbo bolts, downpipe bolts, EGT sensor threads etc.

[ericutexas]

Anti-seize is a must in my book. If I can reduce the chances of a spark plug shearing off in the cylinder head, then it's a good thing. Granted, torqued correctly, it shouldn't happen, but they do happen ... rarely.

OE spark plugs are great, but I just put in the 17psi ST chip into my car and am running Bosch FR7DC plugs from AutohausAZ.com, but I got a FR7DCL or something like that in the mail. They have dual electrodes and a copper center, and gapped to 0.24, they run very well with the increased boost. Are the Volvo plugs 2 or 3 electrode designs?

[James100]

Anti-seize is a must in my book. If I can reduce the chances of a spark plug shearing off in the cylinder head, then it's a good thing. Granted, torqued correctly, it shouldn't happen, but they do happen ... rarely.

OE spark plugs are great, but I just put in the 17psi ST chip into my car and am running Bosch FR7DC plugs from AutohausAZ.com, but I got a FR7DCL or something like that in the mail. They have dual electrodes and a copper center, and gapped to 0.24, they run very well with the increased boost. Are the Volvo plugs 2 or 3 electrode designs?

If anybodys looking for that Bosch plug they sell them at Pepboys and the price out here (Los Angeles) is .99 cents all the time

Edited by James100, 18 March 2006 - 12:27 AM.

[98WhiteS70]

Anti-seize is a must in my book. If I can reduce the chances of a spark plug shearing off in the cylinder head, then it's a good thing. Granted, torqued correctly, it shouldn't happen, but they do happen ... rarely.

OE spark plugs are great, but I just put in the 17psi ST chip into my car and am running Bosch FR7DC plugs from AutohausAZ.com, but I got a FR7DCL or something like that in the mail. They have dual electrodes and a copper center, and gapped to 0.24, they run very well with the increased boost. Are the Volvo plugs 2 or 3 electrode designs?

Well im not much for technical talk but i guess its only 1 electrode, its got a copper tip i think??, and 1 metal piece running off the side of the plug to up above the electrode. Also, i have been to sears auto center, home depot, and ace hardware and they have no idea what anti-sieze is. Where else can i get it from? like a pep-boys or autozone?

Edited by 98WhiteS70, 18 March 2006 - 03:26 AM.

[James100]

Where else can i get it from? like a pep-boys or autozone?

Yes both stores.....

Edited by James100, 18 March 2006 - 03:51 AM.

[MadeInJapan]

It's silvery looking and smell gosh-awful. I use latex gloves and put just a dab evenly over the threads of the plugs. I also use a thin layer of dielectric grease on the ceramic part of the plugs too, but that's a personal preference.

[1997850T5R]

It's silvery looking and smell gosh-awful. I use latex gloves and put just a dab evenly over the threads of the plugs. I also use a thin layer of dielectric grease on the ceramic part of the plugs too, but that's a personal preference.

+1 to both, I find it to make a big difference when doing maintenence later on and such. Also helps all of the parts to last longer. Except the latex gloves part... Geez, all you Volvo guys don't like to get down and dirty. I work on my car laying in the dirt!

[MadeInJapan]

+1 on that....but Oh, I get dirty...the gloves tend to break....LOL>

[PullMyFinger]

Yep, di-electric grease on the connections and nitrile gloves are excellent

Any auto parts store will have anti-seize.