I'm currently replacing the fuel pump on my '96 850 R (sedan), and the large plastic nut that holds the pump is giving me a tough time. Haynes says to use a "vice grip" tool, but that only seems to damage the plastic. I know that there's a special Volvo tool for this procedure, but I imagine it's tough to come by. For those who have done the procedure before, how have you gotten around this issue? Is there a tool I can pick up at AutoZone that will do the job?
Thanks!
Fuel Pump Nut: Removal
Started by telegrammatic, Mar 18 2006 01:06 AM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 18 March 2006 - 01:06 AM
» 1998 V70 T5 34k miles.
#2
Posted 18 March 2006 - 01:20 AM
Scroll down the forum and there is a thread on fuel pumps..... theres more in there
Another option is:
I used a pair of 14" needle nose pliers (they are big) put 90 degrees to the ring and touching the ribs. Then twist with some force....I did not want to hit it with a mallet for fear the neck of the tank might possibly crack.......
Harbor Freight for Pliers
Read these threads Here
The vice grip tool doesnt cut it to good on removing the ring........
Another option is:
I used a pair of 14" needle nose pliers (they are big) put 90 degrees to the ring and touching the ribs. Then twist with some force....I did not want to hit it with a mallet for fear the neck of the tank might possibly crack.......
Harbor Freight for Pliers
Read these threads Here
The vice grip tool doesnt cut it to good on removing the ring........
Edited by James100, 18 March 2006 - 01:25 AM.
1994 Volvo 850 Turbo Automatic 160K
[Autometer Sport/Comp boost gauge] [Silicone Vacuum Hoses][Magnefine PS Filter]
[IPD Torque Rod Mount] [Yokohama YK520][IPD HD-Links]
[Walbro Fuel Pump 5CA3351-1 160K] [PCV System + Air Intake Hose 160K]
[Magnaflow Cat 94105 160K ][Injectors Cleaned/Rebuilt 160k][Motive Brake Fluid Flush]
________________________________________________________________________________
Check Engine Codes OBDI
Resetting CEL and Service Light
Stage 0
PCV Pics
[Autometer Sport/Comp boost gauge] [Silicone Vacuum Hoses][Magnefine PS Filter]
[IPD Torque Rod Mount] [Yokohama YK520][IPD HD-Links]
[Walbro Fuel Pump 5CA3351-1 160K] [PCV System + Air Intake Hose 160K]
[Magnaflow Cat 94105 160K ][Injectors Cleaned/Rebuilt 160k][Motive Brake Fluid Flush]
________________________________________________________________________________
Check Engine Codes OBDI
Resetting CEL and Service Light
Stage 0
PCV Pics
#3
Posted 18 March 2006 - 02:10 AM
Scroll down the forum and there is a thread on fuel pumps..... theres more in there
Another option is:
I used a pair of 14" needle nose pliers (they are big) put 90 degrees to the ring and touching the ribs. Then twist with some force....I did not want to hit it with a mallet for fear the neck of the tank might possibly crack.......
Harbor Freight for Pliers
Read these threads Here
The vice grip tool doesnt cut it to good on removing the ring........
Another option is:
I used a pair of 14" needle nose pliers (they are big) put 90 degrees to the ring and touching the ribs. Then twist with some force....I did not want to hit it with a mallet for fear the neck of the tank might possibly crack.......
Harbor Freight for Pliers
Read these threads Here
The vice grip tool doesnt cut it to good on removing the ring........
Thanks! Sounds like the needle nose pliers and some WD-40 should do it. I actually tried the prybar/mallet method mentioned in the other thread, but no luck.
» 1998 V70 T5 34k miles.
#4
Posted 18 March 2006 - 03:02 AM
I used a wide blade flat head screwdriver and a small hammer, don't go crazy though cause its only plastic. I was having a hard time getting it started but i just kept moving the screwdriver from one sid to the other until it broke free.
96 854R IPD ECU - Turbo XS dual stage MBC - Samco - Koni - 16T angled -OBX - R mani - IPD CAI?
13.7x @ 103 mph with automagic
94 855 Turbo.... In a state of cryostasis

#5 Guest_Guest_drawade_*_*
Posted 18 March 2006 - 09:36 PM
I'm currently replacing the fuel pump on my '96 850 R (sedan), and the large plastic nut that holds the pump is giving me a tough time. Haynes says to use a "vice grip" tool, but that only seems to damage the plastic. I know that there's a special Volvo tool for this procedure, but I imagine it's tough to come by. For those who have done the procedure before, how have you gotten around this issue? Is there a tool I can pick up at AutoZone that will do the job?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I used Oil Filter "Pliers". The ones you can get at any auto parts store. They can be opened real wide (as to grip oil filters!!) and they worked great.
#6 Guest_Guest_*
Posted 19 March 2006 - 12:38 AM
I used Oil Filter "Pliers". The ones you can get at any auto parts store. They can be opened real wide (as to grip oil filters!!) and they worked great.
As a follow-up, I completed the install this morning. I used a combination of techniques (it was really stuck on there), but the combination of WD-40 (sitting for about 20 minutes), a flat blade screwdriver, and a rubber mallet did the trick.
#7
Posted 19 March 2006 - 01:49 AM
flat head and hammer. take your time.
#8
Posted 20 March 2006 - 03:32 AM
you just have to know how to use the vice-grips. clamp them down on the side of the cap, so that the vice-grip is flush against the outer and inner edge of the cap. then you just pull/push in the direction you're trying to turn it. it's a bit of a pain but it works. you shouldn't be trying to get around the entire cap or anything like that, just go for a one side (edge), twist it a bit and then re-clamp.
this actually worked better for me than a screwdriver and hammer. that uh... broke things...
-mike
this actually worked better for me than a screwdriver and hammer. that uh... broke things...
-mike
'95 854 T5 with >170k
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