7 replies to this topic

[Ludeless]

Well, the luck of the Irish wasn't with me yesterday... Took the submarine out and was making a long LH on a traffic circle up here. All of a sudden, the car doesn't want to turn anymore and the wheel starts skidding as I cross over 2 lanes of traffic. Thankfully i was able to break and get mild control of the car. My buddy was cracking up thinking it was just understeer and i was taking the turn too fast... I told him, something just didn't feel right...it definatly wasn't understeer like i've felt before... Like a loss of steering on the FR passenger wheel.

So we delayed out arrival to the pub for some st paddys day celebrations to get the car back home as i didn't want to risk wrecking the car. Was able to get the car back home, but about 1/2 mile from my house i have to make a LH uturn. i had to get on the gas pretty quickly as i turned (BAD IDEA) and i heard a POP, and the screeching tire, and was again heading straight towards a curb. I didn't hit it, but came too close for comfort...so i was able to hobble it back the rest of the way, and i was getting frequent pops as i was going straight... i was thinking it was a tie rod or something to do w/ steering... But i'd wasted enough time w/ the car that night and needed to get some Guiness and Jameson in me so took the other car out for the night.

So i just checked it out and it looks like the Axle joint (inner joint) is F'ed. its free to move back and forth. The boot around it it all twisted up and the wheel had a ton of play in it (the wheel is still fully bolted in the below pic).








Then i noticed that the upper bolt holding the strut in wasn't there....then i started to kick myself in the jerk. When i replaced the spring seats last weekend, i somehow managed to screw up the threads on the upper bolt. So i went to our tool shop at work and got what i thought would be a suitable replacement. original one was a 12mm bolt and i replaced it w/ a 1/2, everything fit when i put it back together...i just wastn' sure of the grade of bolt that was used. So i'm thinking this Bolt snapped off at somepoint and when it went, allowed the wheel hub assembly (i think that's what it's called) to pivot around the only bolt still holding the strut on. Then around the turn i think it pulled the axle out somehow.



So i imagine the car is pretty much undriveable at this point. I really don't have a clue what the connection at the end of the axle is like or what needs to be done to fix it. Does the entire axle need to be replaced? is there anything on the inside of the boot that i should be worried about being broken too?

How difficult of a job would it be to fix? I'm willing to give it a shot, but if it's something that's really easy to mess up if not i may take it to a shop to have done since i definitely don't wanna be on the track barreling towards a turn at 80 mph and have this happen again.... Wouldn't be a pretty site

Edited by Ludeless, 20 March 2006 - 03:23 PM.

[prasamin]

you need a new pass side axle, no doubt, and obviously the bolt (get the camber bolts now).

i don't know about replacement, but I think the Hayne's has a nice writeup on it


also check the control arms and tie rods....alot of stress on those parts after that axle breaking!

[Adam Franke]

I'm currently getting my transmission, both axles, and the subframe replaced for $3900. It's fun stuff.

[MadeInJapan]

www.raxles.com (whole axle replacements...no rebuilt knuckles) great prices with great warranty.
www.fcpgroton.com reman. axles for about $100. Not as good but haven't heard any complaints.

[Ludeless]

you need a new pass side axle, no doubt, and obviously the bolt (get the camber bolts now).

What do you mean by the camber bolts?

I'm thinking i should just get one of the new axle kits from FCP...would this bolt come w/ that?

Should i consider changing anything else out while i'm doing the axle...maybe the wheel hub also? Don't know if those typically go bad, i'm at 101k miles.

What about the driver side axle...would it make sense to replace this side as well?

Thanks

Edited by Ludeless, 19 March 2006 - 01:10 AM.

[Adam Franke]

What do you mean by the camber bolts?

I'm thinking i should just get one of the new axle kits from FCP...would this bolt come w/ that?

Should i consider changing anything else out while i'm doing the axle...maybe the wheel hub also? Don't know it those typically go bad, i'm at 101k miles.

What about the driver side axle...would it make sense to replace this side as well?

Thanks

This: http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?Cat...5148&RootID=629

[Ludeless]

This: http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?Cat...5148&RootID=629

Thanks for the link...i was definitely planning on replacing the bolts, but wasn't planning on getting the camber kit from IPD unless there's a need for it. Is this really worth it to get this kit?

When replacing the passenger side axle do you guys know if the new axle kit from Groton also comes with the intermediate axle or is that an extra part that is needed?

What about doing the wheel hubs? it it worth it to go ahead and replace these while doing the axle?

[pfeener]

The camber kit allows for more adjustment of the Camber than the stock bolts. I usually don't get the kit as long as the shop can align the car correctly without it. You can buy the regular stock bolts from a dealership or from FCPgroton.

The passenger side axle comes complete. I would also replace the axle seal in the transaxle at the same time.

As far as the wheel hubs...if it were me I wouldn't do it until it fails. It's just not that big of a job to pull it apart again and lots of times the wheel hubs will go for the life of the vehicle.