Yesterday, I changed all the vacuum lines to silicone ones. Didn't change the hard plastic lines, but inspected them and the elbows to check for obvious wear. They seemsed fine. Here is what I noted after changing them.
Before: Cold start idle in park vacuum was 12-13 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 8-11mmHG
After: Cold start idle vacuum in park was 13-14 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 10-12mmHG
Before: Warm idle vacuum in park was 14mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12mmHG
After: Warm idle vacuum in park was 16mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12-13mmHG
Before: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 18-19mmHg
After: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 19-20mmHg
A couple of non-related things I found and fixed. The wastegate actuator rod was completely unhooked. The circlip had broken off. The cam position sensor bolts were both loose. A harness was unplugged I think from the PCV system.
So why is my vacuum so weak? I hooked up a guage/vacuum tester to the wastegate actuator and the CBV and they both held vacuum. Help me out guys. TIA
0
Still Poor Vacuum
Started by piran21, Mar 20 2006 07:08 PM
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15 replies to this topic
#1
piran21
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:08 PM
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#2
tendency
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:26 PM
QUOTE(piran21 @ Mar 20 2006, 11:08 AM) 
Yesterday, I changed all the vacuum lines to silicone ones. Didn't change the hard plastic lines, but inspected them and the elbows to check for obvious wear. They seemsed fine. Here is what I noted after changing them.
Before: Cold start idle in park vacuum was 12-13 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 8-11mmHG
After: Cold start idle vacuum in park was 13-14 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 10-12mmHG
Before: Warm idle vacuum in park was 14mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12mmHG
After: Warm idle vacuum in park was 16mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12-13mmHG
Before: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 18-19mmHg
After: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 19-20mmHg
A couple of non-related things I found and fixed. The wastegate actuator rod was completely unhooked. The circlip had broken off. The cam position sensor bolts were both loose. A harness was unplugged I think from the PCV system.
Intercooler co
So why is my vacuum so weak? I hooked up a guage/vacuum tester to the wastegate actuator and the CBV and they both held vacuum. Help me out guys. TIA
Before: Cold start idle in park vacuum was 12-13 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 8-11mmHG
After: Cold start idle vacuum in park was 13-14 mmHG / Cold idle in Drive was 10-12mmHG
Before: Warm idle vacuum in park was 14mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12mmHG
After: Warm idle vacuum in park was 16mmHg / Warm idle in Drive was 12-13mmHG
Before: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 18-19mmHg
After: Throttle lift @ 60mph/100km/h vacuum was 19-20mmHg
A couple of non-related things I found and fixed. The wastegate actuator rod was completely unhooked. The circlip had broken off. The cam position sensor bolts were both loose. A harness was unplugged I think from the PCV system.
Intercooler co
So why is my vacuum so weak? I hooked up a guage/vacuum tester to the wastegate actuator and the CBV and they both held vacuum. Help me out guys. TIA
I'd recommend changing all the elbows. I remember bay13 mentioning awhile back that they can look fine but not function correctly.
Also, have you upgraded the Intercooler piping hoses?
#3
piran21
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:43 PM
No, still stock intercooler hoses. Change all the elbows? Hmmm... how many are there again? Think the CBV is fine then?
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#4
tendency
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:49 PM
QUOTE(piran21 @ Mar 20 2006, 11:43 AM)
No, still stock intercooler hoses. Change all the elbows? Hmmm... how many are there again? Think the CBV is fine then?
Think you can still get in on the Samco group buy at http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=43308
I'd start there and the vac elbow before going on to the CBV and so forth.
You'll have to dig around to find all the elbows - I can't recall off the top of my head.
Edited by tendency, 20 March 2006 - 07:49 PM.
#5
WhiteT5
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:51 PM
Cam timing also plays a large role in the amount of vacuum you'll see.
- Sean
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
#6
piran21
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:01 PM
Oh really???? Well turns out I should be getting the QBM adjustment wheel soon. My father thinks the timing is out on the car. What should the settings be at? I know every car differs, but what has been the general concensous for the intake cam and exhaust cam setting?
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#7
WhiteT5
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:10 PM
QUOTE(piran21 @ Mar 20 2006, 02:01 PM)
Oh really???? Well turns out I should be getting the QBM adjustment wheel soon. My father thinks the timing is out on the car. What should the settings be at? I know every car differs, but what has been the general concensous for the intake cam and exhaust cam setting?
Well, they should both be at 0. I don't think that's the case here. There was a pretty good sized thread about cam timing in performance some time ago reagarding the specifics, but IIRC basically the engine won't create as much vacuum if the exhaust side is opening too late. Don't quote me on that though. I'm too tired to do the whole common sense thing right now. You'll want to look for the specific thread.
Edited by WhiteT5, 20 March 2006 - 08:10 PM.
- Sean
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
#8
maiku
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:10 PM
YMMV with cam timing
slater has a few settings he provides with the cam tool
slater has a few settings he provides with the cam tool
#9
piran21
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:38 PM
Yeah my father thought it was something internal too that causing weak vacuum. Maybe the cam timing is it! Hopefully, I'll get a chance this week if it comes in this week. Any other ideas other than that though?
One other thing: I see a lot of oil in the intercooler hoses/piping. I guess there's a lot of blowby. What does this spell?
One other thing: I see a lot of oil in the intercooler hoses/piping. I guess there's a lot of blowby. What does this spell?
Edited by piran21, 20 March 2006 - 08:39 PM.
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#10
kenhoeve
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:42 PM
sticky valve lifter and/or lifters. deposits on valves. but you don't want a head job to be your problem.
2007 V70R
FMIC|iPd stage I|iPd sways|iPd endlinks|CAI|QBM|SSR GT-10|IMiV|Alpine|Rockford|Patchouli
Best wagon ever if the damn airbox would stop vibrating and it didn't have a Ford Escort headliner.
FMIC|iPd stage I|iPd sways|iPd endlinks|CAI|QBM|SSR GT-10|IMiV|Alpine|Rockford|Patchouli
Best wagon ever if the damn airbox would stop vibrating and it didn't have a Ford Escort headliner.
#11
piran21
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 09:22 PM
Motor was completely overhauled about 35000Km ago.
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#12
piran21
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 04:57 AM
bump
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#13
prasamin
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 05:52 AM
checked the PCV system lately? there is a hard vac line that runs under the intake manifold that tends to bust sometimes....goes hand in hand with the blow by....get in there and replace the PCV system! I'd start there.
#14
piran21
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 07:10 AM
Nice! Anyone have a diagram of the PCV system?
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#15
MadeInJapan
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 04:09 PM
When you lift your hood there is a diagram of hoses on the under side. AFTER changing my pcv system I noticed it.... 
'94 850 NA 100K+ miles (Son's beater car)
'98 S70 T-5 AT: Lots of Mods 190K miles- Engine rebuild from TB mishap- all well now.
'04 V70 2.5T AT: A few Mods 101K miles
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#16
PullMyFinger
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 07:35 PM
I'm actually a bit concerned here. Your wastegate actuator rod was completely disconnected, the cam position sensor bolts were loose and a connector was left unplugged. Who the hell was working on your car and what other gigantic mistakes might have been made...would be the question in my mind. I'm guessing your issue is not about wear and tear, its more about neglect.
Obviously, do what others have suggested...check all vacuum lines and charge pipe connections. Listen for hissing at idle and then under load by turning the throttle wheel by hand. The vacuum diagram is on a sticker on your hood, passenger side. Check every one of those connections very closely.
How long since your throttle body has been cleaned? If you have much oil blow-by then your throttle plate could be gummed causing it to not seat. Is there much oil in your charge pipes? All the hoses on the nipples for your boost control solenoid and air intake duct? How about the pcv lines, they can clog or break fairly easily. How is your idle, if its erratic then your idle control motor might be shot which would tweak your vacuum at idle also. Or maybe that same guy just didn't connect its wiring harness connector.
Man, good luck
Obviously, do what others have suggested...check all vacuum lines and charge pipe connections. Listen for hissing at idle and then under load by turning the throttle wheel by hand. The vacuum diagram is on a sticker on your hood, passenger side. Check every one of those connections very closely.
How long since your throttle body has been cleaned? If you have much oil blow-by then your throttle plate could be gummed causing it to not seat. Is there much oil in your charge pipes? All the hoses on the nipples for your boost control solenoid and air intake duct? How about the pcv lines, they can clog or break fairly easily. How is your idle, if its erratic then your idle control motor might be shot which would tweak your vacuum at idle also. Or maybe that same guy just didn't connect its wiring harness connector.
Man, good luck
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