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Replaced O2 Sensor And Still Getting Slow To Respond Codes


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#1 lax01

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 12:27 AM

Charles said to disconnect the battery, and I did, so we'll see if that fixes it, however, I'm just wondering if anything else can cause a brand new OEM O2 sensor to throw a slow-to-respond (P0133) code.
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#2 Playboy

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 12:29 AM

I was getting similar codes with my car before she went into storage Josh. It read slow o2 read off the rear sensor. Wasn't too sure about it. Goodluck with it...let me know if you find success.

-Ryan

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#3 lax01

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 12:54 AM

QUOTE(NFGplayboy @ Mar 22 2006, 07:29 PM) View Post
I was getting similar codes with my car before she went into storage Josh. It read slow o2 read off the rear sensor. Wasn't too sure about it. Goodluck with it...let me know if you find success.

-Ryan


well this is code is for the front (B1S1) and is exactly the same as what I had before with The spliced sensor...HOPEFULLY disconnecting the battery will fix it....I'll let you know
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#4 Karlson

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 01:22 AM

just got back from volvo service center.


the code was 435 - Heated O2 sensor response slow, and I changed my sensor in October.

Edited by Karlson, 23 March 2006 - 01:24 AM.

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#5 Playboy

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 01:28 AM

QUOTE(Karlson @ Mar 22 2006, 08:22 PM) View Post
just got back from volvo service center.
the code was 435 - Heated O2 sensor response slow, and I changed my sensor in October.



I believe thats the code I get. Whats causing it? Is it effecting power/fuel/etc?

-Ryan

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#6 Karlson

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 01:33 AM

I don't know exactly Ryan, they told me it is o2 sensor.

The 443 is for Three way catalytic converter (TWC) efficiency low. Replace the HO2S and the 443 will more than likely go away. The longer you run with a bad HO2S the more chance you take at damaging the Catalytic Converter

I am thinking that my cat just died
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#7 Playboy

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 02:40 AM

QUOTE(Karlson @ Mar 22 2006, 08:33 PM) View Post
I don't know exactly Ryan, they told me it is o2 sensor.

The 443 is for Three way catalytic converter (TWC) efficiency low. Replace the HO2S and the 443 will more than likely go away. The longer you run with a bad HO2S the more chance you take at damaging the Catalytic Converter

I am thinking that my cat just died



whata mean H02S? Replace the front and rear o2's you mean??

-Ryan

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#8 Karlson

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 03:11 AM

both of them, but Josh and me already changed them a while ago but we still get low singnal code
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Posted 23 March 2006 - 02:56 PM

Hmm...this is weird.

Anyone else have any suggestions on this?

-Ryan

#10 ziddey

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 05:23 PM

check the connection? are these oem or spliced aftermarket bosch?
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#11 Account_Deleted_T5M

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 09:00 PM

So changing both of the sensors didn't help?!? How's acceleration? I have the same problem
Sorry to all the people who are still trying to get their money back.

#12 ms007

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Posted 23 March 2006 - 09:15 PM

Sometimes you will get a slow response code from the front sensor replace it and run a readiness test and it will set again, replace the rear sensor run readiness no codes. The rear o2 sensor checks the efficiency of the cat. Some dealers will replace both when a front or rear code are set. Its a 50 50 shot. No splicing for o2 sensors, atleast buy a bosh sensor. Also you should have a consistant mv reading for the rear o2 sensor if it goes up and down the cat is bad!!!
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#13 Playboy

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 01:35 AM

QUOTE(ms007 @ Mar 23 2006, 04:15 PM) View Post
Sometimes you will get a slow response code from the front sensor replace it and run a readiness test and it will set again, replace the rear sensor run readiness no codes. The rear o2 sensor checks the efficiency of the cat. Some dealers will replace both when a front or rear code are set. Its a 50 50 shot. No splicing for o2 sensors, atleast buy a bosh sensor. Also you should have a consistant mv reading for the rear o2 sensor if it goes up and down the cat is bad!!!



What would cause the cat to go bad...the o2 sensors?? My 3inch down pipe to 2 1/2 catback system is less than a year old....is it possible my cat went bad already??

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#14 Karlson

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 02:47 AM

QUOTE(ms007 @ Mar 23 2006, 04:15 PM) View Post
Sometimes you will get a slow response code from the front sensor replace it and run a readiness test and it will set again, replace the rear sensor run readiness no codes. The rear o2 sensor checks the efficiency of the cat. Some dealers will replace both when a front or rear code are set. Its a 50 50 shot. No splicing for o2 sensors, atleast buy a bosh sensor. Also you should have a consistant mv reading for the rear o2 sensor if it goes up and down the cat is bad!!!

did u read a thread? Lax put a new senson and getting low voltage
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#15 prasamin

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 04:05 AM

did all of ya'll dc the battery for some time? reset the codes and drive around?

it's hard for the cat to go bad, esp if you have a newer catback system, or even the OEM cat....if your sensors been bad for a year, then maybe the cat can go out, but it's pretty tough for it to do so!

#16 Karlson

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 04:10 AM

Josh dissconected his battery, but I still don't know whats the result.

the problem is, that my car goes to limp mode lately, and as I understood only bad cat can put car into a limp mode
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#17 lax01

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 04:46 AM

24 hours later I reconnect the battery....yeah I'm on Spring Break and didn't wake up to 1:30...bah

I'll be driving to Philly tommorow, so I'll definitely know if the code comes back
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#18 BeachRat

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 05:40 AM

I have this same problem, but I didn't see it until I installed the 17PSI SpeedTuning chip. My theory is that the slow O2 response was from the car running rich from the chip, and the excess carbon build up coating the 02 sensor. As it builds up, it would cause the sensor to slow down a bit, then the crap would burn off and everything would be peachy.

I have a brand new front 02, 9 month-old Carsound cat, and original rear 02. I've replaced wires, cap, distributor and plugs. I noticed that hard driving tends to set it off. I get the 443 occasionally, but mostly 434/5/6. I clear it, and wont see it for about two weeks. Unplugging the battery and connecting both wires on the car doesn't work.

If you're running stock chip, then my theory obviously isn't valid.

by the way: HO2S = Heated O2 (oxygen) Sensor

That's one of the reasons your car gets better mileage warm, exhaust gas temperatures heat those puppies up to their nominal operating temps. They're designed to work HOT.

Edited by BeachRat, 24 March 2006 - 05:45 AM.


#19 Karlson

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 05:45 AM

most of us got Chips


Andy, thanks a lot for explanation. It does make sense to me. But how can we fix it? cause limp mode is not fun
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#20 BeachRat

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Posted 24 March 2006 - 05:49 AM

QUOTE(Karlson @ Mar 23 2006, 10:45 PM) View Post
most of us got Chips
Andy, thanks a lot for explanation. It does make sense to me. But how can we fix it? cause limp mode is not fun


I must stress that it's just a theory. Ideally, you could clean your O2 sensor every once in a while, but I'd imagine that would only mess it up and necessitate replacement. I learned that trying to clean an Air Mass Meter... those puppies are sensitive to everything but a clean air filter.

Can we all at least verify that nobody has seen it on their car before their perspective performance chips were installed? I know for a fact I didn't see it until then. At first, I thought it was tripping from misfires. That's why I replaced my ignition lineup. It fixed the misfires, but the O2 sensor kept tripping off...




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