Break Peddle Feel
Started by Ben H, Mar 25 2006 10:48 PM
15 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 25 March 2006 - 10:48 PM
Hey
I have KVR pads and drilled rotors and SS lines.
When i push the peddle down at a normal speed it seems a little mushie however if i push it down release it then push it down again it firms right up.
Is this normal?
Ben
I have KVR pads and drilled rotors and SS lines.
When i push the peddle down at a normal speed it seems a little mushie however if i push it down release it then push it down again it firms right up.
Is this normal?
Ben
1996 850 Turbo.....5 Speed Stick
#2
Posted 25 March 2006 - 11:09 PM
Maybe you need to bleed the brakes? Air in the lines?
Hey
I have KVR pads and drilled rotors and SS lines.
When i push the peddle down at a normal speed it seems a little mushie however if i push it down release it then push it down again it firms right up.
Is this normal?
Ben
I have KVR pads and drilled rotors and SS lines.
When i push the peddle down at a normal speed it seems a little mushie however if i push it down release it then push it down again it firms right up.
Is this normal?
Ben
1995 855T
172,000 miles
172,000 miles
#4
Posted 26 March 2006 - 12:47 AM
haha Ok
the scary thing is that no one has touched my breaks in like 2 years! That means I have been driving with air in the lines for that long?
When I jump on the breaks fast they seem solid.
How much pedle travel is normal?
What is involved in bleading them?
Ben
the scary thing is that no one has touched my breaks in like 2 years! That means I have been driving with air in the lines for that long?
When I jump on the breaks fast they seem solid.
How much pedle travel is normal?
What is involved in bleading them?
Ben
1996 850 Turbo.....5 Speed Stick
#5
Posted 26 March 2006 - 03:21 AM
If you haven't touched the brakes for 2 years then you probably need to not only bleed your brakes, but bleed out the old and put new in. Old brake fluid absorbs water making the brakes less responsive. I'd say this is something you can try that will most likely make a difference and the cost is fairly minimal.
'94 850 NA 100K+ miles (Son's beater car)
'98 S70 T-5 AT: Lots of Mods 190K miles- Engine rebuild from TB mishap- all well now.
'04 V70 2.5T AT: A few Mods 101K miles
'91 240 Sedan- Sold 4/21/09
'94 850 Turbo Wagon AT: Gone but not forgotten at 140+K miles
#6
Posted 26 March 2006 - 04:53 AM
and I second that...
If you haven't touched the brakes for 2 years then you probably need to not only bleed your brakes, but bleed out the old and put new in. Old brake fluid absorbs water making the brakes less responsive. I'd say this is something you can try that will most likely make a difference and the cost is fairly minimal.
1995 855T
172,000 miles
172,000 miles
#7 Guest_Guest_ashman_*_*
Posted 26 March 2006 - 05:08 AM
thats a good idea, use synthetic fluid for your brakes and youll experience less fade too. Synth brake fluid is definitely worth it and you can mix it with your old fluid with no problems. I just bled the brakes and replaced the bled out fluid with synthetic and I got a lot less fade.
#8
Posted 26 March 2006 - 07:03 AM
Right now it has ATE supper blue in it.
Still calling for a flush/bleed?
Any ideas on cost here?
Thanks guys
Still calling for a flush/bleed?
Any ideas on cost here?
Thanks guys
1996 850 Turbo.....5 Speed Stick
#9
Posted 26 March 2006 - 03:13 PM
You have a good fluid in there. A good fluid with a higher boiling point will resist picking up moisture better then a low quality fluid but it will still pick up moisture eventually. Volvo recommends replacement of brake fluid after 2 yrs/20,000 miles. So if you're going by the book it should be changed I guess. My mechanic who is excellent charges anywhere from $60-80 for a flush depending on what type of fluid you choose.
Right now it has ATE supper blue in it.
Still calling for a flush/bleed?
Any ideas on cost here?
Thanks guys
Still calling for a flush/bleed?
Any ideas on cost here?
Thanks guys
1995 855T
172,000 miles
172,000 miles
#10
Posted 26 March 2006 - 05:37 PM
The only other possible could be the master cylinder, but I agree with the others, I would bleed out and change the fluid first. Easy DIY job
'98 S70 GLT
#11
Posted 26 March 2006 - 05:49 PM
possible leaky wheel cylinders or master starting to go if not low on fluid maybe time for fullbrake inspection.
#13
Posted 26 March 2006 - 08:50 PM
I have the same problem with Blue ATE and steel lines. I just wonder if the booster goes bad on an 850?
1997 850R
204,000 and climbing"daily driver"no paint work!
SpeedTuning 17psi ECU/Supersprint 2.5" Exhaust/Custom 2.5" Polished down pipe
Weitec springs/IPD sway bars/Bilstein HD's/QuickBrick links
Stainless Brake Hoses/OEMPads/ Volans with Machined Lip Kumho ASX 215/45/17'
204,000 and climbing"daily driver"no paint work!
SpeedTuning 17psi ECU/Supersprint 2.5" Exhaust/Custom 2.5" Polished down pipe
Weitec springs/IPD sway bars/Bilstein HD's/QuickBrick links
Stainless Brake Hoses/OEMPads/ Volans with Machined Lip Kumho ASX 215/45/17'
#14
Posted 26 March 2006 - 09:06 PM
My 850 Turbo brakes have been acting funny too. Just recently when I press the brake pedal the first time it travel futher than when I release and press again. When I press it the second time, it seems to be higher. What to doooooooo?
#15
Posted 26 March 2006 - 09:18 PM
Yea
Perfect description of the problem.
Now I havent done any tests ...but it seems to be stopping fine.
Any conclusive solutions? I dont want to have them blead only to realize it was a waste of $$.
Ben
Perfect description of the problem.
Now I havent done any tests ...but it seems to be stopping fine.
Any conclusive solutions? I dont want to have them blead only to realize it was a waste of $$.
Ben
1996 850 Turbo.....5 Speed Stick
#16 Guest_Guest_*
Posted 28 March 2006 - 12:08 AM
brake, pedal, bleed
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