11 replies to this topic

[josh_S70GLT]

do I have to remove the sprockets and bolts on the other end of the cams to get the cover off?

I haven't tried really hard but I hit the cover all around and it's not coming up yet.

i've got all the bolts out of the cover and I have taken the timing belt, dist/rotor and CPS off.

thanks guys!

[jross]

You don't need to pull the timing belt to get the cam cover off. Make sure you have all the bolts off and the little anchor that's on the RHS (you have to pull it to get some of the bolts next to the #5 spark plug anyways). There's 6 pins in the cam cover that go into the head, so you can't tap it sideways to loosen it - the cover has to come straight up to come off. Your best bet is actually to get a big honkin' pry bar, and jam up on the cover. There are a couple spots on the front and back of the motor where there is a tab on both the cover and head that is designed for something similar (Volvo has a little spreader that pops in there that works like a pair of pliers in reverse). Just be gentle - it's all aluminum.


Also, if you're pulling the cover, make sure you have the Volvo paint-on gasket crap and either the Volvo roller brush or just a foam roller from Home Depot to re-apply the gasket. Oh, and a plastic paint scraper and some gasket remover. A tap and die set also helps for general cleaning (some of the bolts have a tendency to get slightly chewed up) - IIRC the cam cover bolts are M8x1.25 (Volvo loves that thread size & pitch - the motor mounts, turbo studs and all sorts of other goodies are all M8x1.25).

[josh_S70GLT]

thanks john, got the cover off and both cams are out

i've been working on the head bolts, got three left, man those are in there tight!!!

[jross]

thanks john, got the cover off and both cams are out

i've been working on the head bolts, got three left, man those are in there tight!!!

What in the world are you pulling the head for?

Best way to remove head bolts: soak them in PB'laster for ~20 hours. Then lay the engine on it's side, slap a pry bar on the socket, and stand on it. It helps to have someone stand on the engine. If you're insisting on pulling the head with the motor in the car, pry bar again and make with the soaking.

Which reminds me.. you know you want head studs

[josh_S70GLT]

i'm pulling the head to find out if my rods are bent or if it's a valve issue

yes, i insist on making things hard on myself by not pulling the engine, i just have some mental firewall that prevents me from going that far if it's not absolutely necessary

next up is the oil pan!

oh, and I already ordered a head bolt set, so no studs for me, sorry

but since i haven't heard back from VMS on ETA for rods you'll be my first choice

Edited by josh_S70GLT, 27 March 2006 - 02:40 PM.

[550]

I wish I could pull the heads just because... but alas this is my daily driver

Although there was a pretty cheap volvo on craigs today ... hmm

[850-Turbo]

What in the world are you pulling the head for?

Best way to remove head bolts: soak them in PB'laster for ~20 hours. Then lay the engine on it's side, slap a pry bar on the socket, and stand on it. It helps to have someone stand on the engine. If you're insisting on pulling the head with the motor in the car, pry bar again and make with the soaking.

Which reminds me.. you know you want head studs

Any reason why an impact wrench can't be used to remove the head bolts, other than you don't own one? Is it because the bolts are stretch bolts? Hmm...curious...

[ms007]

Any reason why an impact wrench can't be used to remove the head bolts, other than you don't own one? Is it because the bolts are stretch bolts? Hmm...curious...

Yes they are stretch bolts and NO do not use a impact on them, a long 1/2 in breaker bar is fine.

[josh_S70GLT]

you are correct in that I have no air tools, I am using a 1/2 breaker bar with a 3in extension and 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a 14mm socket

they are yeild-to-torque, i assume they stretch a little so they don't damage the block, they have to be replaced

[jross]

Any reason why an impact wrench can't be used to remove the head bolts, other than you don't own one? Is it because the bolts are stretch bolts? Hmm...curious...

You run a greater risk of shearing or rounding a bolt with an impact gun. That being said, I have seen one used in an engine teardown on these cars before with no ill effect. However, I won't let one near any of my motors.

[850-Turbo]

You run a greater risk of shearing or rounding a bolt with an impact gun. That being said, I have seen one used in an engine teardown on these cars before with no ill effect. However, I won't let one near any of my motors.

The shearing of the bolts would happen when the threads are "locked" together, or in some cases, rusted together. You'd think that if the bold is going to shear, prying with a breaker would more likely to shear the bolt before the threads would "break" loose, rather than if you were to use an impact gun.

The beauty of the impact gun is that it can "break" loose that bond that the threads develope when tightened. Sort of like tapping on a tight jar lid to open it.

In other words, if the impact gun sheares a bolt, then a breaker would have sheared it also, but not necessarily the other way around.

That is why I asked about the stretch bolts. I haven't worked with them so I know nothing about them. I thought something about them makes the impact gun ineffective. Like excessive twisting, which would absorb all the impact effect from the gun.

[pfeener]

If you want to do a search, I believe about 6 months ago Rich Kelly answered a post on reusing head bolts. Rich said it was generally Ok to reuse head bolts one time but after that they were too stretched to reuse. I believe he also gave a measurement for the max length of the head bolt.