12 replies to this topic

[Clerget9cyl]

Hi there,

I've been lurking here for a while. Great website by the way..

My problem.. I've got a '95 Volvo 850 T wagon It has been running fine and I've been doing some minor repairs as needed with help from this forum and Bay 13. I'm finding a bit of sludge starting to happen in the dipstick tube now. I should describe the car, It's got 111,000 miles on it presently. I bought it second hand from a individual 2 years ago with 88K on it. It needed some TLC as it was leaking oil from the TRL, and needed some new engine mounts, new airfilter, it just had just had it's tranny flushed at a shop locally. I did the turbo return line and motor mounts myself, I considered it not so big job but somewhat uncomfortable for a shadetree mechanic with limited tools. I've read up about the sludge problem, and according to most who've dealt with it, it means the PCV system needs cleaning, servicing. Correct?

Well just this last week I did an oil and filter change and noticed that the engine is leaking oil again at the TRL, (maybe I didn't do such a good job of replacing it??) It's not a big leak, just some spottting on the garage floor and a small portion of the back half of the engine below the TRL entry on the engine block was damp with lube. ( I'm really hoping this isn't a RMS problem...
... but doesn't appear to be, as there's oil above the crancase/oilpan seam and it's evenly distributed about the TRL entry point.

Ive read through and memorised Josh's picture tutorial on doing the PCV valve system job. (by the way nice documentary on this,.. but it needs more text describing what is done to the oil separator and the long rubber tube... It's starting to look like doing the PNP switch, which should be simple to fix, but involves a lot of ancillary stuff and it's a bit daunting.. sooo..

Do you really have to take the injectors and the fuel rail apart to remove the downtubes? I even dislike having to remove the intake mainfold. I hate like hell to disassemble something that's in pefectly running trim. And I'm also asking is there a snowball's chance in hell that someone with a fair amount of mechanical expertise can remove the PCV system without having to pull the intake runners? It seems possible that you could do it from below, although I can hear a chorus of those saying that you'ld need the skill of a surgeon and as Tom Baker would say in Black Adder's Potato episode "Aye my lord but you need a woman's hands.."

Also what do I need, exactly, from Swedish Engineering in parts to do this job? Is there anything I'm overlooking ? I want to do this if it saves the RMS, it's definately going to have to be done. The other problem is that this is our only car and my wife needs it nearly daily and she's not liking the sound of it being laid up for more than a couple of days while I suss and cuss my way through groveling to the intercooler engine gods while laying underneath it.

by the way this isn't my first Volvo, I've owned 2 122s models, a '64 and a '67 in particular which I dearly miss the simplicity of. Plus it was a good handling little coupe for it's vintage and state of abuse. I kinda wish Volvo would have brought something similar back like the BMW Mini retro. P1800's and 122's definately rock.

Thanks,

Lewis

[prasamin]

I didn't take the time to read through ALL that, but I will tell you that yes, you have to remove the intake manifold, and you have to unbolt the EGR, which is a pain, in order to do the PCV.

You need to take the fuel rail off and the injectors cuz they go into the intake manifold, which you'll be removing. You'll also need to remove the throttle body.

replace the intake manifold gasket, the throttle body gasket, and clean everything out, including the throttle body, intake manifold, and the idle air control cylinder.

[the underlørd]

unless you have a kid with small hands.. the mani's comin off.

[KLS]

fcpgroton.com has a kit with most the parts needed for the PCV job. You'll also need the intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, and maybe injector seals.

Be sure any steel tubing is clear where the rubber tubing connects. I had to ream out the steel tube on the turbo intake where the rubber tube connects. I used a drill bit held in vice grips to clean out the junk.


Ken

[Clerget9cyl]

I thought I spaced my paragraphs out a bit... oh well..

I thought I read somewhere here that you could remove the intake runner with the injectors intact?

[Clerget9cyl]

Thanks for the assistance so far, it looks like i need to do more research. I'll keep you posted

[NateB]

I thought I spaced my paragraphs out a bit... oh well..

I thought I read somewhere here that you could remove the intake runner with the injectors intact?

Yes- I posted the question some time ago and the responses I got here was you can remove the intake manifold without removing the injectors/fuel rail.

Haven't done it yet - but positive that's what the response here was. Just need to loosen/remove the fuel rail rubber line.

It makes sense- just take a good look at the intake manifold and injector /fuel rail layout.

That said- if it were my nearly 11 year old 850 turbo, I 'd probably go ahead and pull the injectors and replace the o-rings. While in there , I'd also replace the fuel regulator. If you are going to the trouble - might as well do the additional preventative maintenance.

Good luck

Edited by NateB, 28 March 2006 - 01:52 AM.

[SteveO]

I just finished this service this week. A bit of a PITA, but doable, and satisfing too!

Thanks to all of you @ Volvospeed.(check pinned thread!)

It is also a good time to do spark plug wires, and silicone hoses, RIP or not to RIP, or just new hoses in general all around since almost all of this is exposed. I wish I had thought of all that before I started. (I got my new silicone hose kit from stylin' motors just before, but didn't get the samco's in time for the rebuild )

As well as the throttle body and intake gaskets, new injector seals are handy too, as well as a new piece of fuel line for the injector return line. And any extra hose clamps you need to re-assemble the idle air hoses on the TB

The kit from FCP comes with the single use hose clamps that you need special pliers for, or buy some standard hose clamps.

Chances are that your intake is full of sludge as well so buy a couple of cans of carb cleaner. I also found that the top of the cylinder head was full of sludge as well as the spark plug cavities a shop vac and compressed air are helpful to clean theses areas.

Be sure to secure hoses well and leave slack for the intake side of the PVC hoses, as you have to remove intake manifold to reconnect hoses to the oiltrap.

Completing this service gives you your VS oiltrap badge!LOL

[rp850]

Removing the fuel rail is not half as bad as getting the bolt holding the dipstick bracket off.

Seriously, the fuel rail was not too bad at all.

You'll need the upper and lower seals for the 5 injectors. 3528217 for the upper seals and 3528216 for the lower seals.

Basically, you'll need to disconnect the battery (important). You'll pry the cover off the fuel rail and remove the bracket holding the fuel lines to the back of the engine. You'll need to relieve the fuel pressure in the rail by using the schrader valve on the driver's side end of the rail. Or, even easier is to let the car sit overnight and the pressure will most likely have bled off on its own. You can use the schrader valve to check. Have a rag handy and wear eye protection to be super safe.

If your rubber return fuel line by the rail is in good shape you can gently pull the rail and then rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise to get it clear of the manifold without disconnecting any lines. If that line is brittle, you probably can't do this and you'll need to replace the line anyway.

Once the rail is clear of the manifold, just carefully set it on top of the motor and don't let anything come in contact with the injector nozzles.

Replace the seals, reassemble and you're done.

I thought I spaced my paragraphs out a bit... oh well..

I thought I read somewhere here that you could remove the intake runner with the injectors intact?

Edited by rp850, 28 March 2006 - 03:24 AM.

[Gage]

i did mine but i forgot to hook up the vac line to the intake runner thing im thinking maby that is where some of my power loss is comming from the bad thing is to rehook it up you have to pull the intake back off and i dont think im up for it anytime soon

[Gage]

anyone ^

[Clerget9cyl]

anyone ^

I'm going to chronicle my job, I don't have a decent Digi camera but I can get some images, So the injectors are due for new silicone seals... Are the silicon vac hoses as important, or can I just use regular Butyl vac hose? About the very long hose that runs from the oil trap to the intake of the turbo, does this get all collapsed inside and is it required to replace? Sorry about the questions, I'm just wanting this to be done correctly.

Thanks, by the way your a fair bunch to type with, I'm sure you get newbs posting quetsions about this all the time.

[MadeInJapan]

About the very long hose that runs from the oil trap to the intake of the turbo, does this get all collapsed inside and is it required to replace?

Yes, that long hose does need to be replaced. Actually, it usually gets clogged up and doesn't have a chance to collapse. You can get a PCV hose kit from www.fcpgroton.com that takes care of all of the parts you need except an intake manifold gasket and possibly the throttle body gasket, but these are cheap from there.