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What Is Needed To Pull An Engine?


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#1 RZT5

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 12:38 AM

can i pull an engine if i dont have a lift? can it be taken out the top or do i need to drop the subframe with it connected? does the tranny need to be pulled too when the engine comes out or can you disconnect it first?
thanks

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#2 Texas850Turbo

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 12:40 AM

you joined over 2 years ago and today you decided to post?
huh?

oh- drop the subframe
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#3 PullMyFinger

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 12:44 AM

He's been thinkin on doing it for a long while. Very methodical smile.gif

You *can* separate the trans from the engine but its generally easier to pull both out together. No problem at all with pulling it from the top, still connected. You don't have to remove the subframe. But you will need something to hoist it up with however.

#4 RZT5

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 12:57 AM

QUOTE(Texas850Turbo @ Mar 28 2006, 07:40 PM) View Post
you joined over 2 years ago and today you decided to post?
huh?


yep, registered and then kinda forgot about it i guess. then someone suggested this was the best board for 850's so decided to start posting here. WAY faster then vp and swedespeed, likin it here smile.gif

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#5 jross

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 01:25 AM

You'll need a full set of metric wrenches and sockets, some electrical tape for labeling connections, an engine hoist, jack, jackstands, lots of cleaning supplies, patience, and too much time. Also, VADIS/VIDA help alot, though the Haynes & Chilton manuals aren't bad. If you're having to go with the manuals, use both!!

You can separate the tranny from the engine in the engine bay, but it's tricky. We ended up just pulling both out of frustration after wasting most of an afternoon attempting to separate them.

Plan to spend at least 2-3 days on your first time pulling the motor, and be aware there are ALOT of electrical connections that need to be unhooked (on the order of 30+). You'll need alot of PB'laster or WD40 for some of the bolts too. An extra set of hands when actually lifting the motor out is especially helpful as the engine bay is rather tight.

#6 BlackT5

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:36 AM

2-3 days blink.gif
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#7 855R

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:40 AM

I don't know how much this will help, but lots of MOTIVATION!
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#8 The Poi

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:43 AM

a RIP kit
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#9 prasamin

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:46 AM

QUOTE(The Poi @ Mar 28 2006, 06:43 PM) View Post
a RIP kit



and a 19t.

#10 jross

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:51 AM

QUOTE(BlackT5 @ Mar 28 2006, 06:36 PM) View Post
2-3 days blink.gif


First time out? I can see it taking 2-3 days, yeah. I know most pro shops say it's a day in and a day out, I'm assuming a shade-tree mechanic here. It took me and a buddy (both of whom are 'resonably' mechanically inclined') 2 days to get my motor out. There's alot of little things - pulling the strut brace, the axles, the heater core hoses, the rad hoses, the oil hoses, all 20 million electrical connectors, and then when you actually are lifting the engine/tranny out you need to adjust it to get it past the ABS stuff, not to mention the A/C compressor and PS pump which you need to pull off with the engine partway out (well, in my case I had to. Stupid bolt on the A/C froze in place and I had to cut it out with a dremel and hacksaw). Oh yeah, and there's the fuel rail, and all the crap over by the battery that comes out, plus the tranny cables.. the list goes on and on.

#11 StylinMotors

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:30 AM

First motor swap I did was a Volvo245DL about 25 years ago. Had never even changed the oil before. Buy a Chiltons shop manual. Read Read Read.
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#12 Michael T5R

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:41 AM

And most important: donīt you forget to grab a camera and make alot of pics for the other first-timers....iīm facing an engine removal too, feeling a little bit nervous....reading the Haynes over and over again!

good luck!!!
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#13 bloc

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:53 AM

maybe i've blown too many engines up in my day and had too much practice at R&R.. but the first time i pulled the engine and tranny in my 850 i had it out and back in in a day.

by the way, i found it a LOT easier to pull the engine harness out of the ecu box than to disconnect every injector and sensor wire from the engine itself.
remove the ecu and tcu, take the toppart of the box off, depress all of the little retaining clips that hold the aluminum tray down, and it folds in half allowing the connectors to slide out.
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#14 Johann

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:02 AM

QUOTE(bloc @ Mar 29 2006, 08:53 AM) View Post
maybe i've blown too many engines up in my day and had too much practice at R&R.. but the first time i pulled the engine and tranny in my 850 i had it out and back in in a day.

by the way, i found it a LOT easier to pull the engine harness out of the ecu box than to disconnect every injector and sensor wire from the engine itself.
remove the ecu and tcu, take the toppart of the box off, depress all of the little retaining clips that hold the aluminum tray down, and it folds in half allowing the connectors to slide out.



For the 850 maybe yes but with my '00 S70 I needed to take the passenger side headlamp out to remove a screw from the plastic cable cover coming from the ECU box. The screw was placed underneath the plastic inner front frame..

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#15 PyROTech

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:01 AM

make sure to label all the things b/c im telling you now you wont remember.

#16 850turbo

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:35 AM

also if you have a digital camera. Take a picture of everything think possible, even if it seems like its a point less picture. When I did my swap alot of "point less" pictures helped me figure out where some connections went.
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#17 jross

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 10:02 AM

QUOTE(bloc @ Mar 28 2006, 10:53 PM) View Post
maybe i've blown too many engines up in my day and had too much practice at R&R.. but the first time i pulled the engine and tranny in my 850 i had it out and back in in a day.

by the way, i found it a LOT easier to pull the engine harness out of the ecu box than to disconnect every injector and sensor wire from the engine itself.
remove the ecu and tcu, take the toppart of the box off, depress all of the little retaining clips that hold the aluminum tray down, and it folds in half allowing the connectors to slide out.


That is a VERY handy trick right there.. I wish I'd known that.

#18 bloc

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 02:48 PM

i was planning on leaving the engine hanging in the bay today when i do the tranny swap but i'll pull apart the ecu casing and take pics just so everyone has a visual of how it's done.

and johann, is it a screw that you could leave out once it's removed to make future R&Rs easier, or is it too important?
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#19 trance42

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 05:38 PM

It took me 4 days to to complete engine swap and tranny conversion. I had two people helping me. I had not done anything more than install exhaust and change oil prior to the swap.

Freezer bags with the white area for you to write on helps for bolts.
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#20 Volvo Virgin

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 11:26 PM

QUOTE(trance42 @ Mar 29 2006, 12:38 PM) View Post
Freezer bags with the white area for you to write on helps for bolts.


This might sound like something you MIGHT want to do...but it is something you should DEFINITELY do.Everything you take apart(alternator,starter,water pump,etc)put the bolts in a ziploc bag and write what they are on the bag.The same with pictures.Take close ups and complete engine bay pics,especially of anything that looks confusing coming apart.

You will thank yourself ten fold on the reinstall.

Edited by Volvo Virgin, 29 March 2006 - 11:27 PM.

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