I would like to attempt this myself... I've learned certain cars have a procedure for brake bleeding. For example to start at the wheel furthest from the Master cylinder. What's the proper way to do this with a 96 850R?
Anything else I should know?
Thank you,
0
Installing New Calipers & Rotors On Car...
Started by beaveralpha, Mar 29 2006 08:11 PM
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4 replies to this topic
#1
beaveralpha
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:11 PM
BeaverAlpha
1996 850R
1996 850R
#2
the underlørd
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Pretty Boy Racing
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:15 PM
moving to the right forum.
2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.
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Mesoam
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:33 PM
LF RF LR RR (standing infront of vehicle)
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gdizzle
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:44 PM
QUOTE(Mesoam @ Mar 29 2006, 03:33 PM) 
LF RF LR RR (standing infront of vehicle)
correct and if you have 4 or more piston calipers, you bleed the inside then outside of the caliper.
Greg
'98 V70T5M
'74 142
'98 V70T5M
'74 142
#5
Milo
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:05 PM
http://volvospeed.com/850fbrake1.php
If the rotor has been on a while (>4 years or so) and in a wet climate, getting it off is not a simple strike with a hammer but rather bruttaly beating it with deadblow or a mini sledge.
OEM pads dont make as much noise as any aftermarket pad.
High temp Silicone grease is better then High temp Lithium grease for our systems.
If you have a lip on your rotors then it may be hard to pull the caliper off because the pads are catching the lip. The lugnut wrench in the spare well is good for leverage against the outside of the rotor and against the inside of the caliper, just work it slowly and carefully.
Make sure if you have thin pads and thin rotors that you remove some of the brakefluid from the res. before you go collapsing the caliper piston for the new pads. Clean turkey baster is good for this.
Replace fluid with ATE super blue so you know when the old fluid is out and the new fluid is in, then switch to ATE super gold for the next time (same fluid different color).
These are the things I learned by doing that I didnt learn by reading, either because they wernt there or I missed them.
Milo
If the rotor has been on a while (>4 years or so) and in a wet climate, getting it off is not a simple strike with a hammer but rather bruttaly beating it with deadblow or a mini sledge.
OEM pads dont make as much noise as any aftermarket pad.
High temp Silicone grease is better then High temp Lithium grease for our systems.
If you have a lip on your rotors then it may be hard to pull the caliper off because the pads are catching the lip. The lugnut wrench in the spare well is good for leverage against the outside of the rotor and against the inside of the caliper, just work it slowly and carefully.
Make sure if you have thin pads and thin rotors that you remove some of the brakefluid from the res. before you go collapsing the caliper piston for the new pads. Clean turkey baster is good for this.
Replace fluid with ATE super blue so you know when the old fluid is out and the new fluid is in, then switch to ATE super gold for the next time (same fluid different color).
These are the things I learned by doing that I didnt learn by reading, either because they wernt there or I missed them.
Milo
2006 V70 2.5T 148k
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