I'm replacing the PCV valve on a 260,000km '95' T-5, on removal of the intake manifold i noticed that the 2 hoses/pipe that run from the Oil Trap to the Turbo air intake pipe were cracked. In New Zealand the cost of these parts to come from USA is over $130.00. All I want to do is replace these 2 hoses! Does anyone know the temperature and pressures ratings of these hoses/pipe? I understand they will have to be oil / fuel safe.
Cheers
T
0
Pcv Hosing
Started by Kiwi850-T5, Mar 29 2006 09:04 PM
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10 replies to this topic
#2
TorqueSteer
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 12:17 AM
u can use either a copper bent pipe or any fuel safe reinforced hose should be fine. ive seen fuel hose being used as a turbo oil return line, so it should be more than adequate for pcv hose.
1995 850 Turbo | Hahn Racecraft Td05-Super 16g Turbo | 3" turboback exhaust | Water/ Methanol Injection | Custom FMIC | NA Cams | HKS SSQV BOV | Civinco Piggyback EMS | Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump | Innovate LM-1 A/F Meter | Koni Coilovers | QBM Endlinks | IPD Sway Bars | Profec B EBC | Bi-xenon Projector Retrofit | Matte Red Paint Finish.
...Sold for something American and RWD.
...Sold for something American and RWD.
#3
MadeInJapan
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 05:10 AM
They don't have to be fuel safe but oil safe, yes. Can you buy some good silicone hoses there? If so, my suggestion is to buy a larger one and fit 2 smaller hoses through it and use them. I know that everyone is going gaga over the stylin' hoses sold here on this forum and even I bought some and I love them, but unfortunately, I bought these right after I did my pcv hose replacement. I would have used them if I had them and saved the $120 or so for the Volvo pcv hose kit. Anyway, I hope you find a good solution.
The copper hoses sound okay, but I would worry about attaching them to the end of both the oil trap and the bayonnet connector on the end of the intake hose to the turbo. It would be difficult to get a good seal.
The copper hoses sound okay, but I would worry about attaching them to the end of both the oil trap and the bayonnet connector on the end of the intake hose to the turbo. It would be difficult to get a good seal.
Edited by MadeInJapan, 30 March 2006 - 05:11 AM.
'94 850 NA 100K+ miles (Son's beater car)
'98 S70 T-5 AT: Lots of Mods 190K miles- Engine rebuild from TB mishap- all well now.
'04 V70 2.5T AT: A few Mods 101K miles
'91 240 Sedan- Sold 4/21/09
'94 850 Turbo Wagon AT: Gone but not forgotten at 140+K miles
#4
DVolvoguy850T5
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 02:06 PM
Copper would be great. MIJ, the ends of the tube can be flaired just so and install the sylicone connecters with a zip tie. Then on the engine and banjo fitting use the clamps that are allready there on the original installation.
I just spent 120 on the Volvo kit. I am kinda likeing the Samco's now!
by the way, where can the vac elbows be had for cheap? Does Samco make them?
I just spent 120 on the Volvo kit. I am kinda likeing the Samco's now!
by the way, where can the vac elbows be had for cheap? Does Samco make them?
I have a 97 855T5 now, have had 6 other Volvos in the past. Sux I aint got um any more!
#5
piran21
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 02:44 PM
So, the PCV kit isn't really worth it or fully necessary?
Piran
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
True Euro Trio:
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - K&N panel, Jesse 3" down pipe w/Magnaflow cat, IPD/TME cat-back exhaust, Stage 0, ST 17psi, Autometer Boost gauge
1997 VW Jetta GLX VR6 - P&P'd BIV head, Dougherty Racing 268 Cams, Modded air-box w/K&N, GIAC cam chip, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat and cat back exhaust, H&R Sports, Koni Reds, Neuspeed RSB
1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16 - K&N custom intake, custom Remus cat-back exhaust, JR Cup Kit suspension w/Koni Reds in rear, E-tech strut brace, custom ECU w/8400rpm redline :)
#6
DVolvoguy850T5
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 03:17 PM
The pvc system is nessiary for our Volvos. Just what was mentioned above is alternitive to what parts Volvo sells. None the less the bugger has to be cleaned or replaced every 60,000 mi. 
I have a 97 855T5 now, have had 6 other Volvos in the past. Sux I aint got um any more!
#7
MadeInJapan
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 04:03 PM
You're right about using the hoses as connectors...that's what I would do with the elbows too and just get rid of those narly elbows altogether.
'94 850 NA 100K+ miles (Son's beater car)
'98 S70 T-5 AT: Lots of Mods 190K miles- Engine rebuild from TB mishap- all well now.
'04 V70 2.5T AT: A few Mods 101K miles
'91 240 Sedan- Sold 4/21/09
'94 850 Turbo Wagon AT: Gone but not forgotten at 140+K miles
#8
PullMyFinger
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 06:29 PM
I used copper pipe, routed to an inline catch can. If you look closely at this pic you can see the copper pipe coming out from behind the throttle body and then under the air intake filter box. I replaced all factory vacuum lines with silicone. The pcv continues to the intake tube just before the turbo, it is important to maintain this routing and all plumbing correctly.
#9
DVolvoguy850T5
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 07:39 PM
QUOTE(PullMyFinger @ Mar 30 2006, 12:29 PM) 
I used copper pipe, routed to an inline catch can. If you look closely at this pic you can see the copper pipe coming out from behind the throttle body and then under the air intake filter box. I replaced all factory vacuum lines with silicone. The pcv continues to the intake tube just before the turbo, it is important to maintain this routing and all plumbing correctly.
Id like to see more pix of that set up. What is the blue ventury for on the top of your cyl head?
I have a 97 855T5 now, have had 6 other Volvos in the past. Sux I aint got um any more!
#10
PullMyFinger
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 07:42 PM
That is just a fluted outlet for my Greddy Type RS BOV. It is anodized blue and just threads into the unit. I actually intend on removing that outlet and putting a threaded adaptor in that I can connect to a hose and route back to the intake pipe, after MAF and before turbo. Otherwise known as recirc or plumback BOV.
The holes in that fluted outlet just amplify the air "pssshhh" sound when it vents.
The holes in that fluted outlet just amplify the air "pssshhh" sound when it vents.
#11
Kiwi850-T5
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Posted 31 March 2006 - 02:33 AM
Thanks for your help team,
I ended up with a clear tube from the PTEF family. It's a Teflon FEP tube rated at -200 through to 200Deg C.
It's flexible enough to handle the 90degree bend and won't kink. Sizing was perfect also with an I.D of 9.5mm or 3/8" and O.D 12.5mm or 1/2".
May be some more questions later due to part pricing and availabilty in this part of the world.
Happy motoring guys.
T
I ended up with a clear tube from the PTEF family. It's a Teflon FEP tube rated at -200 through to 200Deg C.
It's flexible enough to handle the 90degree bend and won't kink. Sizing was perfect also with an I.D of 9.5mm or 3/8" and O.D 12.5mm or 1/2".
May be some more questions later due to part pricing and availabilty in this part of the world.
Happy motoring guys.
T
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