16 replies to this topic

[markblue850]

This weekend I'm changing the oil in my 1995 850 GLT and I had a few questions. I've only owned the car for 2 oil changes prior to this, and I did both of them with a friend of mine who basically walked me through the whole process. The last two times we changed the oil we put a Wix oil filter in, but after lurking on here for a while I've never seen them mentioned and was wondering if there was a better oil filter to put in. Also, we didn't replace the copper ring that goes in front of the drain plug the last 2 times we did this. I've heard that not doing this causes the oil to leak, but I haven't noticed any leaks or loss of oil so I was wondering if anyone here could confirm how necessary that is. The friend that changed it with me suggested buying a drain plug that has a valve on it so you don't have to unscrew the drain plug for future oil changes, instead you just insert a hose that comes with the new drain plug into the valve and drain the oil that way. If anyone has one of these on their Volvo I would like to know if you would reccomend it or not and if there is anything I should know when putting it on. Sorry for my ignorance on such a simple procedure, and I appreciate your responses.

[Mesoam]

the crush washer should be replaced every oil change...the "crush" function is essentially sealing it, you loose that if you reuse it

i use FRAM filters, they have grip and can be bare handed. The OEM filter is "Mann" however isn't readily available at places like "autozone" you can typically pick them up in bulk on ebay for pretty good prices

personally i don't care for those oil drain valves. Its not like you are changing your oil every week so is it that much of a pain to unbolt a drain plug? The risk factor really isn't worth it to me

i have heard of Wixx but never used their product. When I find something I like, I stick with it

[ziddey]

the crush washer should be replaced every oil change...the "crush" function is essentially sealing it, you loose that if you reuse it

i use FRAM filters, they have grip and can be bare handed. The OEM filter is "Mann" however isn't readily available at places like "autozone" you can typically pick them up in bulk on ebay for pretty good prices

personally i don't care for those oil drain valves. Its not like you are changing your oil every week so is it that much of a pain to unbolt a drain plug? The risk factor really isn't worth it to me

i have heard of Wixx but never used their product. When I find something I like, I stick with it

as I understand, Mann is best. something about the way it is able to bring the oil back up or something something.

[rp850]

I use the Fumoto valve and it works great. No leaks. It does make it dead easy to change the oil and it's good for taking samples.

The only thing I don't like about it is that it sits a little below the oil pan so theoretically it's possible that you could hit it if you run over something or decide to go off roading for some reason. Then again if you run over something big enough to take that plug out I would suspect you have bigger problems.

My advice is to stick with the regular drain plug and washer setup. Honestly, how hard is it to remove the drain plug?

the crush washer should be replaced every oil change...the "crush" function is essentially sealing it, you loose that if you reuse it

i use FRAM filters, they have grip and can be bare handed. The OEM filter is "Mann" however isn't readily available at places like "autozone" you can typically pick them up in bulk on ebay for pretty good prices

personally i don't care for those oil drain valves. Its not like you are changing your oil every week so is it that much of a pain to unbolt a drain plug? The risk factor really isn't worth it to me

i have heard of Wixx but never used their product. When I find something I like, I stick with it

[MadeInJapan]

OH GUYS (or Girls?)!

Rule #1....Never, I mean never use a Fram filter. They are absolutely the worst filters you can buy. Wix is good but Mann is better and they make the filters for Volvo. The reason I say fram is bad is because it doesn't have the check valve that keeps oil up in the valve train when you shut the engine off. You need as much lubrication as possible on a cold start.

Rule#2....Never use a copper washer. It is too hard and will strip the threads. No washer (if you don't have a leak) is still better than a copper one. The washer you want is a soft aluminum one.

www.fcpgroton.com has all of these items for cheap. I buy a case of 10 Mann filters and crush washers at a time. Do this and if you have a turbo, change out with a good synthetic oil (I use Mobil-1) every 3-5K miles, depending on type of driving.

Now about the valve in question. Your friend mentioned what is called a "Fumoto" valve. It is a niffty contraction that some have claimed they love. I personally don't use one but I don't see the harm in buying one. You can find them here: http://www.fumotovalve.com/ You can find the one for your car here: http://www.fumotovalve.com/merchant.cfm?id=229&step=2 If you buy this, make sure and get the adapter. The 850's drain plug is recessed and you'll need it.

Hope all of the info was helpful.

Edited by MadeInJapan, 30 March 2006 - 04:44 AM.

[ziddey]

When I went to the dealer and asked for crush washers, they gave me the copper ones and said that volvo replaced the old al ones with the cu ones

[crimsonghost]

When I went to the dealer and asked for crush washers, they gave me the copper ones and said that volvo replaced the old al ones with the cu ones

I think its the other way around.

[ziddey]

I think its the other way around.

that's no good because mine is clearly copper and i just got it two weeks ago when i started the autorx treatment

[the underlørd]

that's no good because mine is clearly copper and i just got it two weeks ago when i started the autorx treatment

then you got hosed.

cause FCP and Dealer around here supply aluminum ones.

[crimsonghost]

Yeah, so do the two volvo dealers around here that ive been to.

[the underlørd]

now their ARE copper volvo gaskets, like the ones on the coolant and oil lines on the turbo, but they're too small for the oil plug.

[KLS]

Copper can be soft enough to work OK with an aluminum oil pan, but it work hardens with use. The copper gasket can be annealed by heating red hot and quenching in water (the opposite way steel is annealed). In any case, any auto parts store sells drain plug gaskets of fiber, aluminum, nylon, or neoprene-inserted steel that will work well. The main point is to NOT overtighten the drain plug beyond the specified torque. If the gasket leaks, let it leak until you can replace the gasket with a new, soft one. I've replaced gaskets with oil in the engine...with the oil cold, take the plug out, immediately put your thumb over the hole, have a helper put the new gasket on the plug, and put the plug back into the drain hole. Only a few drops of oil will be lost unless you're a real klutz.

I do not like Fram filters. I've seen too many photos of them where they were either manufactured with gaps or the filter media developed holes. I use Mann, and WIX & NAPA-Gold are my second choice.


Ken

Edited by KLS, 31 March 2006 - 12:51 AM.

[markblue850]

Thanks for all the help everybody, looks like I'm just going to use a Wix filter (I don't have time to order a Mann filter, but I'll get around to ordering some before the next oil change), keep the drain plug, and use an aluminum washer, and put in Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. One last question, if I end up being too busy to spend the time to do it myself, should I just take it Jiffy Lube or another "$20 lube, oil, filter" place or wait and do it myself with the filter and oil mentioned above? Thanks again.

[the underlørd]

Thanks for all the help everybody, looks like I'm just going to use a Wix filter (I don't have time to order a Mann filter, but I'll get around to ordering some before the next oil change), keep the drain plug, and use an aluminum washer, and put in Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. One last question, if I end up being too busy to spend the time to do it myself, should I just take it Jiffy Lube or another "$20 lube, oil, filter" place or wait and do it myself with the filter and oil mentioned above? Thanks again.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

wait. do it yourself. honest.

[rp850]

INTERVENTION!!!!!

Seriously, don't bring it there...

Thanks for all the help everybody, looks like I'm just going to use a Wix filter (I don't have time to order a Mann filter, but I'll get around to ordering some before the next oil change), keep the drain plug, and use an aluminum washer, and put in Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. One last question, if I end up being too busy to spend the time to do it myself, should I just take it Jiffy Lube or another "$20 lube, oil, filter" place or wait and do it myself with the filter and oil mentioned above? Thanks again.

[Boosted5cyl]

just an FYI, I ordered my magnetic plug and washers from FCP, I got 4 AL and 1 copper one, all same sized but I think I read in the Chilton manual the Copper ones are for the tranny drain plug, might be wrong but pretty sure, maybe they got mixed up in the parts bins !

[Pete]

I'm with Made in Japan on that Fram oil filter comment. Stay away from them, they're bare bones filters. They do function for a while, but definitely aren't as well made or durable as the NAPA Golds or Manns. With your investment in a Volvo, spend the extra $3.00 and get something 10 times better.

Be careful with the Jiffy Lube places. The techs there are trained but you can do a much better job on your own. The reason I say that is because you can get the oil nice and hot so that it flows better on the drain and you can let it drain for a good ten minutes before you seal it up. No Jiffy Lube will do that for you. These guys are timed for everything they do.

I know Texas is hot, but I'd go half and half with 5w30 and the 10w30. If you do it right, use the Mobil 1, you should be good for 5-6,000 miles or more. And you've got piece of mind.