13 replies to this topic

[TSWisla]

I have been getting a lot of "squeaks" from my front and rear. It doesn't look like anything is damaged. Can anyone give me some advice on what to look for? Also, I am considering replacing my struts/shocks, should I buy everything new? When I say everything, I mean everything that FCP has on their site that relates to the struts and shocks. Is anything missing from FCP that I should replace also? Thank you!

[ViperVettte]

Is this on the 850? The spring seats on the 850s usually give a noise from the fronts when they go bad, had a problem with them on my 97. Its pretty hard to check them by the way, so you might have missed them if they are actually busted. As far as the rear, good luck...

[TSWisla]

Yes, the 850, sorry! What do you mean about the rear ones?

[ViperVettte]

as in, I don't know whats up with the squeaks coming from the rear

[erikv11]

I have been getting a lot of "squeaks" from my front and rear. It doesn't look like anything is damaged. Can anyone give me some advice on what to look for? Also, I am considering replacing my struts/shocks, should I buy everything new? When I say everything, I mean everything that FCP has on their site that relates to the struts and shocks. Is anything missing from FCP that I should replace also? Thank you!

I agree that squeaks in the front are often spring seats on the 850. It is easy to check them, see the post about spring seats that is listed under the "pinned threads" topic at the top of this forum. Also check your sway bar end links, they are a weak spot and if you have high mileage they may be out, although they usually leads to clicks and pops.

Get under there and check your control arms for play too, could be squeaky but if those bushings were squeaking then you'd expect the front end to float too.

If the front suspension hasn't been changed yet, definitely replace the strut, spring seat, and strut mount, end link if it has broken boots or loose joints (they're pretty cheap), bump stop and dust boot if they are bad (but you can't tell until you get them out, so I just ordered new ones). You're up near 100k, the rear shocks probably need changing, if so definitely buy new rear mounts. That should do it, you don't need to replace the hardware but some people do.

Squeaks in the rear I'm less sure too, the common weak spot there is the rear shock mount, but that usually clunks when it goesw out. Again easy to check, you just uncover it from the trunk and look at at. If it is broken it will be obvious.

[TSWisla]

Thank you very much!

[TSWisla]

On fcp there is a part called, "Front Strut Mount Assembly" that costs $60, is this necessary to replace when doing the struts also? How do you know if the control arms are bad, just by looking at the bushings and when I jack up the car, they should not move around? Thank you.

[JMK33]

Im pretty sure they shouldn't be moving around, try replacing those and see what changes you get. Also if your car doesnt feel stable, or it feels timid going into turns (floating , unsure) im guessing its also the control arms.

[TSWisla]

I should get the assembly mount or the control arms? FCP has the bushings for the C-arms, is it tough to put them in or is it a good idea to just buy the entire arm?

[erikv11]

I should get the assembly mount or the control arms? FCP has the bushings for the C-arms, is it tough to put them in or is it a good idea to just buy the entire arm?

for the strut job, the "assembly mount" is what I called "strut mount" in my other post, and it should definitely be replaced when you do a strut job. You should always replace strut mount and spring seat.

To check the control arm, jack up the car and place on stands. Check the bushings by looking at them for damage, rock the wheel back and forth and there should be no play in the bushings. Yes you could change just the bushings but I wouldn't, you need to press them in and out plus the other thing that goes bad on control arms is the ball joint. So if the A-arm has got a problem anywhere then with 100k miles on it you are better off replacing the whole arm. To learn how to check the control arm ball joint, go to this link. Use the search function, this stuff has been talked about a lot.

Hey from what you describe, I actually doubt control arms is your squeak problem, but doesn't hurt to check them. Bad control arms give poor handling and a loose front end. Did you check the spring seats? I would do the strut job (strut, mount, seat, bump stops; there is a great link for this job in the pinned threads at the top of this forum), you need struts by 100k anyway, and then see how it drives.

You can't do struts and control arms at the same time anyway, so you wouldn't be saving any time by trying to do them together.

[TSWisla]

Thanks, I really appreciate the advice.

[capnandy]

erikv11
I've just ordered struts, spring seats. shock mounts, and links and all the nuts and bolts. But I didn't order the dust boot or cap. When you took the dust boot off what kind of shape was it in?
'96 855 w/90K
capnandy

[erikv11]

erikv11
I've just ordered struts, spring seats. shock mounts, and links and all the nuts and bolts. But I didn't order the dust boot or cap. When you took the dust boot off what kind of shape was it in?
'96 855 w/90K
capnandy

On my car the dust boots were in decent shape, just a little old but not cracked. You can look at the dust boot if you raise the car and take off the wheel. If they're falling apart or something, obviously replace them. The bump stop you can't see until the strut is out. One of my bump stops was a little crumbly and the other was fine. I've heard on this board about some being wasted when you get in there, and some being fine. When I had to remove my struts at 135k, I figured if you're going to shell out all of that cash for the other parts, might as well spend another $35 on a pair bump stops while you've got the strut out. Same idea on the dust boots but they seem to last longer.