34 replies to this topic

[850turbo]

I see more and more people interested in doing manual swaps. So I have composed some pictures for you guys if you are confused on how somthing fits or how it works....

CLICK HERE FOR PICTURES

This swap was done on a 96 850

EDIT: oh yeah and sorry for some reason I cant get the pictures to sort in the right order, so some of the are shuffled around

Edited by 850turbo, 01 April 2006 - 01:14 AM.

[drPheta]

NOICE! What'd it cost you for it all?

[850turbo]

The cost was about $1700. I got the trannie for 550ish +80 for shipping, and the clutch for 650. Those are the 2 most expensive parts. Other things were flywheel around 100ish, cables, linkages, 25ish from erie.

[chaze1385]

Clutchnet.com makes some really nice clutches. Inexpensive

[trance42]

what are the conectors called that you used for the back up light wires that conect to the sensor?
Tim

Edited by trance42, 01 April 2006 - 11:14 PM.

[Karlson]

did u pay 179 for master cylinder clutch or found cheaper one?

[BeachRat]

Wow! Congrats on finishing that!

[bloc]

master cylinder is about 100 on eeuroparts.com


erie quoted me 95 for the shifter and cables, and 65 for the pedals. how did you talk them into that stuff for 25 bux?


by the way i just finished my swap and didnt take a ton of pictures, just of stuff that was confusing/hard to figure out.
will get those compressed and posted soon.

[850turbo]

what are the conectors called that you used for the back up light wires that conect to the sensor?
Tim

Man, I cant find the link but I searched it on VS and found the right pins, it should be the 2 blue cables on the PNP

did u pay 179 for master cylinder clutch or found cheaper one?

I ordered all my stuff from FCP Groton, Went and got all the brand new stuff that I could. AnthonyR posted how his slave cylinder shot out. So im like yeah.... it better to get new stuff.

master cylinder is about 100 on eeuroparts.com
erie quoted me 95 for the shifter and cables, and 65 for the pedals. how did you talk them into that stuff for 25 bux?
by the way I just finished my swap and didnt take a ton of pictures, just of stuff that was confusing/hard to figure out.
will get those compressed and posted soon.

Yeah sorry about the confusion I paid 25 for the linkage and about 80ish for the shifter and 65 for the pedals so its the exact same price.

Hows your swap working out? Any problems or is it all working good?

[bobcat]

Nice pics there, missing the money shot though!! - of the manual shifter with all the panels fitted.

looking at the pics, have you removed the pnp all togther? im guessing you tapped the pnp connector to tie in the reverse lights.

how did you get round the starting(ie it will only start if the pnp is in P or N)?

Are you still runing the auto ecu?

even though im in the uk with manual R's, i thinking of swapping my auto for a manual, as complete manual t5's (blown engines etc) can be had for a few hundred pounds.

Edited by bobcat, 02 April 2006 - 04:17 PM.

[bloc]

not sure how he did his (though i did see the trans connector in the bag, water tight apparently)

on mine, i cut the harness that runsover the tranny open and separated out the important stuff, ie cam angle sensor, o2 sensor wires, speed sensor, afm wires, etc.
then i cut off the transmission connector right at the connector to keep the important wires as long as possible. via research on here, i knew i had to run the blue and blue/grey wires to the reverse light, and to get it to start without the pnp, splice the green/red and green together.
when i got in there there were 2 solid green wires, the one i needed was the fatter of the 2.

to eliminate all of the useless wires, i got into the ecu container, disassembled the bottom portion which gave me access to all of the TCU wires that were no longer used. i then used the bunch of cut wires where the tranny/pnp plug was to determine what to pull out, and started clipping wires at the TCU connector. then just got a pair of pliers and pulled them out of the harness one by one. all that was left were the blue, blue/grey, green, green/red wires and it all works perfectly. car started right up, and the reverse lights work (which they never did with the pnp switch i had in there)

one more note. by bypassing the pnp switch starter interrupt and therefore enabling the starter to engage in any gear, you disable the cruise control. there is one wire you need to clip under the fuse panel near the abs unit that will fix this. let me know if you need more details.

[Karlson]

so from fcpgroton u ordered: Clutch Slave Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder, Clutch Hose and Clutch Release Bearing

is that right

[850turbo]

Nice pics there, missing the money shot though!! - of the manual shifter with all the panels fitted.

looking at the pics, have you removed the pnp all togther? im guessing you tapped the pnp connector to tie in the reverse lights.

how did you get round the starting(ie it will only start if the pnp is in P or N)?

Are you still runing the auto ecu?

even though im in the uk with manual R's, i thinking of swapping my auto for a manual, as complete manual t5's (blown engines etc) can be had for a few hundred pounds.

Yeah im still running the auto ECU, however I think I am going to be purchasing Jross's Euro spec RICA ecu.

not sure how he did his (though i did see the trans connector in the bag, water tight apparently)

on mine, i cut the harness that runsover the tranny open and separated out the important stuff, ie cam angle sensor, o2 sensor wires, speed sensor, afm wires, etc.
then i cut off the transmission connector right at the connector to keep the important wires as long as possible. via research on here, i knew i had to run the blue and blue/grey wires to the reverse light, and to get it to start without the pnp, splice the green/red and green together.
when i got in there there were 2 solid green wires, the one i needed was the fatter of the 2.

to eliminate all of the useless wires, i got into the ecu container, disassembled the bottom portion which gave me access to all of the TCU wires that were no longer used. i then used the bunch of cut wires where the tranny/pnp plug was to determine what to pull out, and started clipping wires at the TCU connector. then just got a pair of pliers and pulled them out of the harness one by one. all that was left were the blue, blue/grey, green, green/red wires and it all works perfectly. car started right up, and the reverse lights work (which they never did with the pnp switch i had in there)

one more note. by bypassing the pnp switch starter interrupt and therefore enabling the starter to engage in any gear, you disable the cruise control. there is one wire you need to clip under the fuse panel near the abs unit that will fix this. let me know if you need more details.

Thats exactly what I did, but instead of cutting off the wires it just left them hooked up. This was done just in case (god forbid) that I had to switch the car bad to Auto

so from fcpgroton u ordered: Clutch Slave Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder, Clutch Hose and Clutch Release Bearing

is that right

Yes that is right, but I never did get to use the bearing..... couldent get it to fit. I searched on the forum and other people had the same problem.

[bloc]

to clarify, are you talking about the pilot bearing?

i think karlson was asking about the throwout bearing.

fwiw, i didnt use the manual pilot bearing/bushing either.


did you use new flywheel bolts? i ordered all 10 from volvo, and the ones that came were pretty different than what was on there (or any other car i've worked on, for that matter.)
here's a pic of them with the tool i had to buy.
the parts yard gave me the flywheel bolts with the manual tranny i bought, and they were normal 6 sided hex bolts.

[bobcat]

one more note. by bypassing the pnp switch starter interrupt and therefore enabling the starter to engage in any gear, you disable the cruise control. there is one wire you need to clip under the fuse panel near the abs unit that will fix this. let me know if you need more details.

thanks for the great info guys, If you could post up what wire to clip for the cruise control that would be great as my car has cruise, and im sure this thread will provide so good info for future swappers.

Im guessing the cruise computer is connected to the pnp so it will only allow cruise to work if in D?

[bloc]

from looking at the wiring diagrams cruise will work as long as the car is NOT in P or N. the thing is, what tells the cruise when you are in P or N is the exact wire that tells the starter it's ok to work in P or N.

(will edit post later with pics and a description of the cruise control mod)

so here goes.
remove the cover to the fuse panel under the back drivers side corner of the hood. there will be a large black relay box in there that you can pull right out. this is your cruise computer. 101B/102E in this picture


once it is out you should have 2 colored plugs remaining that the cruise computer plugs into. on my car they were orange and brown, not sure about other years though i'd suspect it's the same.
here's what mine looked like with the computer removed


you are only removing the computer to get a reference to which color you need to look for under the fuse panel. the wire that tells the cruise computer if you have the car in P or N is a green wire with a red stripe, and on my car plugged into the bottom of the orange plug on the rearmost side of it. now remove the driver's kick panel and under there above all of the various relays you should barely have access to the bottom of the orange plug that the cruise computer sits on. i had to remove all of the relays to get clear access. mine were color coded and keyed though, so no need to keep track of where they went.

i simply clipped the green/red wire and insulated it to keep it from shorting on anything. the following picture shows the wire clipped and more importantly, what the orange and brown plugs look like from the bottom.


verified that the cruise works yesterday on the freeway.

i can email people a wiring diagram of the cruise system if they want the further assurance that i know what i'm talking about.

Edited by bloc, 03 April 2006 - 06:42 PM.

[bloc]

the edit didnt BUMP it

[prasamin]

i searched, can't find what year and model cars the M56H came on....anybody?

[bloc]

95 and up 850s, whether turbo or non, were M56H. 1994 turbo 850 manual was a m56H.

M56L is the same transmission with shorter first and second gear.
it came in 2 different final drives in the states, depending on model year.
93 M56L should have 3.77 final drive.
94 M56L will be 4.0. this combined with the M56L's shorter first and second gear means it is actually lower gearing off the line than a M56H. not that you'd need it.


all of this is via the v@dis program. fire away if you have any more questions, i did all of this research 2-3 weeks ago and it's fresh on my brain.

forgot to mention, i have a spreadsheet in excell of the different gear ratios from different years, with what the final ratio at the wheel will be for each one. pretty nice to compare the different years of manual and automatic transmissions.

[bobcat]

great info bloc, ive saved a copy of this page for my records.

you say you clipped the green\red wire from the cruise to the pnp up at the connector. just a thought that came to me, could you have not clipped it down at the pnp? or does that green\red wire run of to the tcu?

Thanks.

Edited by bobcat, 05 April 2006 - 10:23 AM.