7 replies to this topic

[SteveT]

Just bought an "01 S60 T5 w/ 70K miles. I got it pretty cheap so I was counting on a couple of problems, just like a little help please:

1. There is a knocking on the front passenger's side wheel when I hit potholes. When I open the hood and bounce the car, the strut piston goes up and down. Is it just the strut mount that's bad or do I need to replace the strut as well? Even if not at this mileage should I just go ahead and replace the struts anyway (The front ones seem ok...no bounce, the rear ones are shot).

2. The car didn't come with the remote. Can I just reprogram one of the ones they sell on ebay by myself or do I need to go to a dealer to have it done?

3. When does the timing belt need to be replaced on these cars?

4. What are other maintenance items that I need to replace at this mileage (I have to buy an owner's manual)?

Other than those things the car runs great, no CEL.

Thanks for the help!

[gr8gatzby]

Just bought an "01 S60 T5 w/ 70K miles. I got it pretty cheap so I was counting on a couple of problems, just like a little help please:

1. There is a knocking on the front passenger's side wheel when I hit potholes. When I open the hood and bounce the car, the strut piston goes up and down. Is it just the strut mount that's bad or do I need to replace the strut as well? Even if not at this mileage should I just go ahead and replace the struts anyway (The front ones seem ok...no bounce, the rear ones are shot).

2. The car didn't come with the remote. Can I just reprogram one of the ones they sell on ebay by myself or do I need to go to a dealer to have it done?

3. When does the timing belt need to be replaced on these cars?

4. What are other maintenance items that I need to replace at this mileage (I have to buy an owner's manual)?

Other than those things the car runs great, no CEL.

Thanks for the help!

1) no idea
2) dealer must makey sweet love to the remote
3) every 105k
4) turbo's love full syn oils 4.1) unless your radio code is written down somewhere, do not unplug the battery
5) how much did you pay?

[Piglet]

It's just the strut mount you have to replace but while you're there, why put in some new struts/shocks too? If you're doing the rear, might as well do the front so you don't have to go back and have more downtime with the car. Gr8gatzby is right, the dealer needs to program the remote for you and if you do buy one on Ebay; the remotes will need to have the original documents with the codes so the dealer can program them. Spark plugs, oil change, air filter, and cabin filters are a great place to start, you didn't mention having any service records so those are recommended. You can actually unplug the batteries on the P2 cars (2001+) because they don't have a radio code, there is a code stored in your key though. All you have to do is lock/unlock your driver door using the key.



Good luck and enjoy your new car.

[SteveT]

5) how much did you pay?

I paid $10,000.

Thanks for the replies.

How much does the dealer charge for a new remote and reprogramming? Any recommendations on struts/shocks? I thought read somewhere that it was possible to reprogram a remote yourself by holding down one of the buttons in the car while pressing one of the remote buttons...guess not

Edited by SteveT, 08 September 2006 - 02:06 AM.

[loseR99]

Any recommendations on struts/shocks?

there is a group buy deal on koni fsd struts and shocks with eibach springs for $750

heres the link Koni FSD +Eibach Spring Kit

Edited by 1clean01, 08 September 2006 - 04:34 AM.

[GuelphVolvo]

This should be AOK on a 2001 S60 T5, right?

[MadeInJapan]

Knocking sound from the suspension on either side, I would highly suspect the swaybar endlinks. These are crap from Volvo and they never made them better even from 850 days...Good news is, now there are much better alternatives out there (IPD HD's, or even better- Quickbrickmotorsports).

[T5Chris]

1) The T5 struts aren't very good.. and don't last very long for that matter. I started notice them losing their dampening effect gradually around the 40K mile mark, although yours may vary.

Suspension was the first thing that I upgraded on the car, and by far the best investment for them. One thing to note is that if you're not doing the suspension replacement yourself, make sure you find somebody that knows what they're doing, pref. at a Koni dealer. With the Koni suspension, you will have to cut and drill into the original strut housing, and insert the shocks that koni gives you. Takes quite a bit of labor.

Had a guy at a tire shop do it for me, I think he did something wrong, and been having a world of problems. I'm going to buy an FSD set w/o the Eibach springs and have them reinstalled. Standard procedure I'm told is to change the spring seats, and strut mounts, and possibly the end links as well.

2) Dealer has to do that unfortunately

3) I'd personally do it at 90K to be safe.

4) Not sure what the previous owner has done, but I bought my car certified preowned from an owner all the way over there in New York, I noticed a lot of contaminants in the Transmission Fluid. After about 60K miles, there was enough to where it needed to be changed. Volvo says that with the ATF, there's no mandatory for it to be changed, so keep an eye on that. PS I think mobil makes volvo's TF, it's called 3309? Don't quote me on that though. But that's an FYI in case you don't wanna pay 35350350$/qt for Volvo Genuine Fluid.

5) Darn, I bought mine for 30K and I thought I got a steal on it. Can't believe they've gone down in price that much.