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JOHN96850R

300whp S70 T5 Manual

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I just sold my 90 760 turbo but when I had it I couldn't get it to stop detonating over 14 psi so I added water injection with 30 perc. meth. and I took the stoch maf and put in a larger housing to elimate fuel cut gutted the cat and with a rrfpr to add fuel that sucker was FAST! But that's on 20 psi. with 0 detonation and stock turbo ,little 13c!

I've run david's 850r aka 850rrr many times with that brick!But that engine couldn't flow for stuff! A 13c holding 18psi to redline is proof.

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You are right on Joe.Take for instance the .41 A/R housing (stock volvo). Changing turbine A/R has many effects. By going to a larger turbine A/R, the turbo comes up on boost at a higher engine speed, the flow capacity of the turbine is increased and less flow is wastegated, there is less engine backpressure, and engine volumetric efficiency is increased resulting in more overall power. The .41 A/R is able to create the pressure differential at a much lower engine rpm, giving the compressor ability to make its maximum rpm speed sooner, why the 15G and all others spool very quickly. As the engine rpm climbs, the pressure differential is lowered due to the physical volume of the housing size becoming a restriction on the post turbine side - volvo turbine housing suck !. As the housing size is increased, it take greater engine rpm speed (greater exhaust energy) to spool up the turbine, but the pressure differential is less effected by the physical volume of the housing. If you are after maximum midrange gains smaller housings are essentially (15G,16T,18T), if top end gains are essential larger housing are essential(16G,20G,3071R, 28R).

Just as a note, they're .49 A/R. And though they're small, the housings have a great design, integrated wastegate which joins the exhaust stream on the downside of the turbine at a good angle, and on the straight and especially angle-outlet housings, the outlet itself flows very well. With some porting the inlet of the turbine housing will also flow well.

You would have a ton of trouble finding a comparably sized turbine housing from another manufacturer that flows as well (though, these turbine housings are in desperate need of porting... overall design is nice though).

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6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R

7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R

8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R

9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R

10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R

11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R

12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R

I thought they were 6 cm 2 housing ? :unsure:

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I just sold my 90 760 turbo but when I had it I couldn't get it to stop detonating over 14 psi so I added water injection with 30 perc. meth. and I took the stoch maf and put in a larger housing to elimate fuel cut gutted the cat and with a rrfpr to add fuel that sucker was FAST! But that's on 20 psi. with 0 detonation and stock turbo ,little 13c!

I've run david's 850r aka 850rrr many times with that brick!But that engine couldn't flow for stuff! A 13c holding 18psi to redline is proof.

That poor brick i cant blieve it took what we put it through. It was meant for driving to the grocery store and maybe a ghetto tank if WWIII breaks out. But that sucker was tough R.I.P. John i bet if you put another baby seat inbetween the two others you would get 330 to the wheels.......... :rolleyes:

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6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R

7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R

8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R

9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R

10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R

11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R

12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R

I thought they were 6 cm 2 housing ? :unsure:

I always thought they were 7... The TD04HL have bigger turbine exducer than regular TD04/TD04H also.

http://www.melett.com/newPDFs/MHI/TD04.pdf...sing%20A%2FR%22

That's a list that mentions all of the FWD Volvos (except some 2.0 liter versions and for some reason the 1998 S70?) as 7 cm2 housings. Go figure...

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I always thought they were 7... The TD04HL have bigger turbine exducer than regular TD04/TD04H also.

http://www.melett.com/newPDFs/MHI/TD04.pdf...sing%20A%2FR%22

That's a list that mentions all of the FWD Volvos (except some 2.0 liter versions and for some reason the 1998 S70?) as 7 cm2 housings. Go figure...

Cool little PDF you got there. Well I heard that just some are 7 and others 6. But either way, 300 whp with a bigger turbo.

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I'm not saying that a laggier turbo is bad or even a more efficient one. But if you slap a gt35r on the car with nothing done to it ... you are going to pay. I do also agree that more efficient boost is better for rods even in general, and that heat is a killer for engines.

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Personally, i believe the volvo crew on this board have limited exposure to tuning. Due to the advent of the ECM flash they simply buy a chip and what ever that chip gives them thats they are happy with.

I perosnally believe the 16T could make 300 WHP. I made 244 though an AUTO with an already heatsoked engine and that was only 12-13 PSI by redline.

The key here is to get the 16T to HOLD 20 PSI to redline, and the only way you can do this is not though some fancy boost control although an EBC will help steady the boost and help bulid boost faster.

The way to hold boost on a small turbo like this is to physically make the flapper of the wastegate not able to open more then a set amount.

What happends is there will be so much back pressure in the manifold trying to get pass the turbo that it will physically FORCE open the wastegate. Once it does this it bleeds off boost until it gets to a point where it takes the same pressure to go out the WG as the turbine wheel. Why boost continues to drop off to redline is becuase the more you rev the more air you pump though the engine.

EBC is good to stop the boost from overboosting downlow because adjusting the rod will screw up low boost so you need a boost controller to control boost downlow and the rod to handle up top.

Basically if you close the rod on the WG you FORCE the manifold pressure to rise but you also force more air though the turbine = more boost.

I've done this sucessfully on mk3 supras and where the previous though of 290-300 WHP on the stock turbo was the max guys are now pumping 350+ whp....

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zazzn how 'bout a better wastegate in general?

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Personally, i believe the volvo crew on this board have limited exposure to tuning. Due to the advent of the ECM flash they simply buy a chip and what ever that chip gives them thats they are happy with.

I perosnally believe the 16T could make 300 WHP. I made 244 though an AUTO with an already heatsoked engine and that was only 12-13 PSI by redline.

The key here is to get the 16T to HOLD 20 PSI to redline, and the only way you can do this is not though some fancy boost control although an EBC will help steady the boost and help bulid boost faster.

The way to hold boost on a small turbo like this is to physically make the flapper of the wastegate not able to open more then a set amount.

What happends is there will be so much back pressure in the manifold trying to get pass the turbo that it will physically FORCE open the wastegate. Once it does this it bleeds off boost until it gets to a point where it takes the same pressure to go out the WG as the turbine wheel. Why boost continues to drop off to redline is becuase the more you rev the more air you pump though the engine.

EBC is good to stop the boost from overboosting downlow because adjusting the rod will screw up low boost so you need a boost controller to control boost downlow and the rod to handle up top.

Basically if you close the rod on the WG you FORCE the manifold pressure to rise but you also force more air though the turbine = more boost.

I've done this sucessfully on mk3 supras and where the previous though of 290-300 WHP on the stock turbo was the max guys are now pumping 350+ whp....

Great information. Guys isnt this basically what Jake did. He did the basic stuff (chip, exhaust) then used a EBC to controll the boost and made 294whp. Sounds like I might need to look more into these EBCs.

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Great information. Guys isnt this basically what Jake did. He did the basic stuff (chip, exhaust) then used a EBC to controll the boost and made 294whp. Sounds like I might need to look more into these EBCs.

Actually, if you read zazzn's a bit more critically, he is actually discrediting EBC's to a point, and instead suggesting that our factory wastegate design/size is the problem.

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Actually, if you read zazzn's a bit more critically, he is actually discrediting EBC's to a point, and instead suggesting that our factory wastegate design/size is the problem.

I fail at reading. :rolleyes: So wait I'm retarted and no expert on these turbos, just trying to learn. He is saying that if you closed the WG rod then use an EBC to controll the boost down low that would help to push our little turbos right? or am I a million miles off? Thanks.

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I fail at reading. :rolleyes: So wait I'm retarted and no expert on these turbos, just trying to learn. He is saying that if you closed the WG rod then use an EBC to controll the boost down low that would help to push our little turbos right? or am I a million miles off? Thanks.

You can weld the gate shut, but partial throttle surging would be a sob.

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He makes it sound like extra manifold pressure is something innocent. It isnt. It reduces power, puts more stress on the rods and lowers the "knock-limit". Especially because this is already an issue with our cars stock exhaust manifolds and tiny turbines. Aside from that if a 16T were to hold 20 psi at 6000rpm on a 2.3L engine you'd be so far off the compressor map its not funny.

294 whp on a 16T would be a nice example of a dyno that aims to please.

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