13 replies to this topic

[leurven]

I am replacing out my front IPD sway bar with a new IPD sway bar that isn't defective. Unfortunately I don't have the torque specs for things like the subframe or anything. Does anyone have these or have a link to where these are posted?
Thanks.
John

Also need the torque specs for Slater's Endlinks if anyone has them.

[leurven]

Ok I am severely stuck on this project.... anyone around to help me out this minute with removing the sway bar?

[RussB]

Torque specs are for sissies!

Actually, torque specs are engineered for new, clean threads. For old stuff, get 'em good'n tight.

I have no experiencs with AWD's

[leurven]

Need some serious help with this. Anyone - pictures below.

Here's the story. I am trying to replace my IPD front sway bar with a non-defective IPD front sway bar. This is where I am at. Endlinks disconnected. Sway bar disconnected from subframe. Front subframe bolts extremely loose. Rear subframe connector disconnected. Engine top mount bolt taken out. Drivers side tranny mount loosened. Bolt take out of steering u-joint - steering shaft is not coming free from this joint as you will see in pics.

The subframe will not get low enough on the drivers side for me to remove the sway bar. If my downpipe didn't sit so low I could most likely get the sway bar out on one side and wrestle the other side. Alas that isn't happening. On the drivers side there is a blue stub that sticks down where the subframe connects to the chassis (see pictures). This does not exist on the passenger side. Pat (Brickster) suggested disconnected the steering rack at the u-joint but this joint will not come free and as you can see I have tried getting it to detatch. Anyone got any ideas?? Please - this is a serious bitch and the car is currently at the state you see in the pics sitting on four jack stands.

Steering u-joint with bolt removed:


Second pic of steering u-joint:


Passenger side with clearance when I lower the subframe and engine - though could do with more space but there is no more slack:


Pass side again:


Drivers side w/ problem:


The gap I have to work with on Pass side right now:


And just a "reset" picture of when the subframe is up tight against chassis:


HELP!!!

[leurven]

This is not encouraging - Matt Sharma says he did with a friend in 20 minutes. Unfortunately he does not remember how

[RussB]

Jon,

You need to remove the bolts that attach the steering rack to the subframe. There are 5 of them. You should NOT be messing with the steering U joint. The rack should be free of the sub frame. There are also a few power steering brackets that need to be removed.

I know you have the Haynes, check there for reference

and it looks as if you just need to lower your jack a little more. Lower the rear of the sub frame just enough to slide the bar out

[gdizzle]

Jon,

You need to remove the bolts that attach the steering rack to the subframe. There are 5 of them. You should NOT be messing with the steering U joint. The rack should be free of the sub frame. There are also a few power steering brackets that need to be removed.

I know you have the Haynes, check there for reference

and it looks as if you just need to lower your jack a little more. Lower the rear of the sub frame just enough to slide the bar out

What he said.

Torque specs are for sissies!

Actually, torque specs are engineered for new, clean threads. For old stuff, get 'em good'n tight.

NOT TRUE.

[garbergtsi]

you shouldnt have disconnected the steering u joint, just remove the rack from the subframe.
do you have the engine supported? take a big prybar and lower the rear subframe more...

i dunno what else to say. this is a real easy operation

[RussB]

NOT TRUE.

IS TOO

[BMonk]

What was defective on the IPD bar? Just curious..

Bill
Mystic,CT

[MadeInJapan]

Okay, this is straight from Volvo on how to do this. I know that they say to use a tool to "lift" the engine, so you'll have to improvise on the lowering the subframe part. Just go to the link below and click on use FileFactory Free Basic. This will take you to a second page and on that, scroll about midway and you'll see a download link. Click on it and you'll get the pdf file. Good luck!
http://www.filefactory.com/file/6b8787/

[the underlørd]

what's the guys name who did this entire write-up, with more pictures than i ever thought possible?

[leurven]

What was defective on the IPD bar? Just curious..

Bill
Mystic,CT

They made the wholes where the endlinks connect too big and thus caused rattling and movement for the endlink in that hole.

Okay, this is straight from Volvo on how to do this. I know that they say to use a tool to "lift" the engine, so you'll have to improvise on the lowering the subframe part. Just go to the link below and click on use FileFactory Free Basic. This will take you to a second page and on that, scroll about midway and you'll see a download link. Click on it and you'll get the pdf file. Good luck!
http://www.filefactory.com/file/6b8787/

This was an awesome help. Thanks so much. I got the new bar in and put everything back together. The car seems fine. More details tomorrow once I drive it. I just had to disconnect the steering rack I can't see how a mechanic would do it without removing the downpipe - it was an extremely tight squeeze.

Thanks again guys.
John

If anyone needs help with theirs let me know. Now I know the right way to do it.

[MadeInJapan]

They made the wholes where the endlinks connect too big and thus caused rattling and movement for the endlink in that hole.
This was an awesome help. Thanks so much. I got the new bar in and put everything back together. The car seems fine. More details tomorrow once I drive it. I just had to disconnect the steering rack I can't see how a mechanic would do it without removing the downpipe - it was an extremely tight squeeze.

Thanks again guys.
John

If anyone needs help with theirs let me know. Now I know the right way to do it.

Glad my file helped. Wish there was an easier way to upload these, or store them on this site.