9 replies to this topic

[stoner564]

OK here is my story. I drive a 04' S60 2.5T. And about 7 months ago the motor started nocking. Becuase I was an idiot at the time I waited about a week and then well it was to late. On the way to the shop the motor gave out and the connecting rod blew a hole in the side of the engine about 5" dia. So that was the end of that engine. After about 2 months of waiting I finaly got my car back. They put a used s60 2.5T motor in the car that had about 37,000 miles on it compared to the 54,000 the original motor had on it. I was pretty happy a little worried but happy cause I was getting a motor with less miles on it. With the purchase of that motor I also purchased a 1 year warranty on it just to be safe. So I got the car back and later that day it died on my completly so I called my mechanic and he came to my house and looked at it and said I needed a new alternator. SO the next day I had my car towed in and he put a new one in sure enough it worked fine. Untill later that week about 400 miles later the motor started to make the clicking sound that it made the first time so I called my mechanic had the car towed back in the same day and he orderd another motor for free because of the warranty thank god I purchased it. So then again I was stuck waiting this time it only took about 3 weeks. And then I got it back the motor they put in there had 51,000 miles on it. And came out of a s60 2.5T aswell. So ive been driving with this motor for about 2 months and sure enough yesterday it started to make the exact same clicking noise. And of course a lose of power came with it. SO before I go through the waiting game again. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON WITH THESE MOTORS? ANd what am I doing to destroy them or what is going on with them. WHat should I do? I really need some help so please help me out with this.

[Lynn Brockman]

I've never heard of a failure rate like that. Assuming your oil has been full the entire time, and you haven't hot-rodded it like no tomorrow, there should never be this sort of issue. Just wondering, but did your mechanic use your original oil pan with the replacement engines? If so, did he re-use o-rings, or replace them? It sounds like an oiling issue all the way..

- Lynn

[stoner564]

I've never heard of a failure rate like that. Assuming your oil has been full the entire time, and you haven't hot-rodded it like no tomorrow, there should never be this sort of issue. Just wondering, but did your mechanic use your original oil pan with the replacement engines? If so, did he re-use o-rings, or replace them? It sounds like an oiling issue all the way..

- Lynn

Nope with the new engines he used the oil pans that came with them. And I dont hot rod it all over the place but yea once and a while on the weekends I will punch it but I never let the revs get past 5000rpm.

[Lynn Brockman]

I think it's time to find another mechanic, or at least get another mechanic's opinion. I've got an 850 with almost 200k on the origial motor, and it is fine - no leaks, drips, knocks, etc. Volvo builds a good engine, so the question to ask is why is this happening again? What hasn't changed about the situation? Are you changing the oil on time, and using sythetic or at least a quality oil (other than Pennzoil and Quaker State)? Did the mechanic burp out all the air from the cooling system? Do you use high grade fuel? Are you hearing a clicking/rattling noise, or is it truly knocking? Has the VVT Solenoid been disassembled and cleaned or replaced? There has to be more to this to explain why it is occurring so frequently..

- Lynn

[loseR99]

where is the vvt solenoid? i know my car has vvt but i've never heard of a vvt solenoid. Could you be more specific please.

[garbergtsi]

its on the top of the head, towards the front of the engine

[Lynn Brockman]

Yep. You have to remove the coil cover to see it, and it is attached with 4 screws, and has 1 electrical connection on it. You can sometimes hear of issues with pre-ignition or a 'rattle' on acceleration under boost..

- Lynn

[loseR99]

i thought that was an egr valve? heres a shot of mine, top left corner, is that what you're referring to?

[attachment=1226:attachment]

Edited by 1clean01, 03 October 2006 - 11:29 PM.

[garbergtsi]

yeah, thats it.

you dont have an EGR valve

[smokin' T5M]

That is only the CVVT reset solenoid!!!!!!! The VVT is attached to the exhaust cam. If it's set correctly timing and power are a problem. If the CVVT isn't set you could bend valves. No brain, no pain if the mechanic hasn't got that info.