480 replies to this topic

[BlackT5]

scumcity14, on 17 July 2011 - 01:40 PM, said:

Removing the engine and trans isn't to bad, just be methodical and patient if its the first time, Label all connectors and Vac. lines...If you are going to have the engine out, do all the oil O-rings...clean the oil pan, pick up tube and PCV passages..so much easier when the engine is out!
Single mass/internal slave works great, just be very patient bleeding system..Also DO NOT re-use the clip that holds the clutch line to the slave fitting on the trans..it may look fine, but removing it distorts it and it pops off at very inopportune times...ask me how I know this!

Thanks. I'm going to pull off the power steering pump and AC compressor and just leave them in the engine bay. Any trick to the oil cooler lines? I guess it might be a good time to swap to an aftermarket oil cooler, I just don't want to try and get too many things done and run out of time.

This the clip you're referring to? Looks like there are 3?

[scumcity14]

The #13 "lockbrace" is the clip i was referring to. (part # 9181827) Any one you pull, just replace with new. they are cheap and boy does it suck when one fails!! mine looked fine but it was slightly distorted and it allowed the line to pop out and the clutch pedal falls to the floor..order 4 just to have an extra 1 or 2 laying around in case you bend one. feel free to PM me if you have any problems/questions...I did the same project back in Dec/Jan..

Oil cooler lines have that special clamp that is overpriced...order 2. taking them off the engine to do the O-rings is cake..super simple and self explanatory..

[lookforjoe]

BlackT5, on 16 July 2011 - 05:12 PM, said:

Updated OP with part numbers, just need the axle seal #s. Anyone? Am I right to assume numbers 9 and 21?

Neither of those are axle seals. You need to look up the M59 trans itself, the seals should be shown with that, two for the VC side.

[BlackT5]

It's an M56h. Vadis is showing nothing.

Edit:

Looks like #8 - 6843481 - Drive shaft seal - O.DIA 60 mm

Edited by BlackT5, 18 July 2011 - 03:48 AM.

[Johann]

B Mac, on 16 July 2011 - 09:01 AM, said:

Would you recommend the internal slave over the external slave?

Personally I prefer the external cylinder over the internal one for the simple reason that it is serviceable from the outside. Added to that the external ones have hardly shown any problems while the internal version have gone through 3 or so different versions already and are still known for not always doing what they are supposed to do.

When changing the whole flywheel and pressure plate setup the slave will probably work in a slightly different position and this alone can cause a perfectly good but higher mileage cylinder to go bad in short time. For this reason I would exchange the cylinder for a new one while the parts are still out of the car. Yes it is costly but very cheap compared to having to remove the gearbox again.

[lookforjoe]

BlackT5, on 18 July 2011 - 03:36 AM, said:

It's an M56h. Vadis is showing nothing.

Edit:

Looks like #8 - 6843481 - Drive shaft seal - O.DIA 60 mm

That's it. Same PN as M66 AWD left side seal, it seems.

I guess the first pic just covers M56-59, since it illustrated the VC, I assumed that's what you had

[BlackT5]

Johann, on 18 July 2011 - 12:44 PM, said:

Personally I prefer the external cylinder over the internal one for the simple reason that it is serviceable from the outside. Added to that the external ones have hardly shown any problems while the internal version have gone through 3 or so different versions already and are still known for not always doing what they are supposed to do.

When changing the whole flywheel and pressure plate setup the slave will probably work in a slightly different position and this alone can cause a perfectly good but higher mileage cylinder to go bad in short time. For this reason I would exchange the cylinder for a new one while the parts are still out of the car. Yes it is costly but very cheap compared to having to remove the gearbox again.

Thanks Johann. Hopefully it works out well and there are no problems with the internal slave. I have asked to see if Spec will exchange the TOB they sent for the internal one I need. Worth a try right? I think I might have to shorten the list of parts since I just had an unexpected expense come up. Timing components might have to wait a bit.

lookforjoe, on 18 July 2011 - 12:51 PM, said:

That's it. Same PN as M66 AWD left side seal, it seems.

I guess the first pic just covers M56-59, since it illustrated the VC, I assumed that's what you had

Yea, Vadis wasn't showing anything. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right spot, but you would think it would be under transmission or axles. That last diagram was from volvopartsstore or whatever it is.

[BlackT5]

So Spec is going to send me an internal slave in return for the release bearing and $56. Saves me about $100

['93 Dave]

dunno if your still looking for seals, but my passenger side seal seams to be leaking so im looking at this part


automatic

manual tranny

lookforjoe, on 18 July 2011 - 12:51 PM, said:

That's it. Same PN as M66 AWD left side seal, it seems.

I guess the first pic just covers M56-59, since it illustrated the VC, I assumed that's what you had

edit nvm u got it.

[BlackT5]

I almost have the engine out now. Just need to take off the downpipe, pop the axles out, remove the clutch and oil cooler lines and deal with the engine/trans mounts.

I didn't order the clips that attach the oil cooler lines to the rad. From what i've read, these need to be replaced with new ones once they are off, and even then people have had problems with them popping off. Am I better off just disconnecting the lines down near the oil thermostat?

For the clutch line.. do I just pop off the clip on the external slave? I've never done this before. Am I going to lose fluid? Is it pressurized? Sorry if they are stupid questions but I have no idea.

[ozzimark]

There are little flares on one end of the clips. Pay attention to which way they go. I reused mine, have had no problem with them. If you're worried, put a clamp or zip-tie around them to prevent them from expanding.

Yes, just pop off the clip, and the line will pull right out. Have a catch can ready, because you will drain out the master cylinder and part of the slave when you do that. Not pressurized, unless someone is messing with you and pressing on the pedal while you unclip it

[BlackT5]

Thanks Mark.

How does the rear trans mount come off? I really hope I fdon't have to remove the turbo to get to it. I haven't had a really close look at it, partially because I haven't been under the car yet and also because the turbo is blocking my view.

[ozzimark]

I'd undo the bolt going into the subframe and leave it attached to the trans until you get the engine out of the car, if you can.

[BlackT5]

I'll take a closer look tonight. Thanks. Once this thing is out, then I can start tinkering.

Edited by BlackT5, 04 August 2011 - 09:02 PM.

[BlackT5]

Came out real easy. Thanks for the tips guys.





Spec stage III after 7 years and ~60k kms.



Flywheel had some good wear too. Glad to be getting rid of it.

[BlackT5]

Axle nut was so tight, we broke my 1/2" breaker bar.



In the end, we managed to pull the axles out of the trans with them still in the hubs, There was just enough play with the hub disconnected from the strut.

[BlackT5]

Got the diff installed today. I know some people leave the gear packs in, but we decided to take them out. I think it would have been a bit more difficult to get at the bearing races with everything still in the box.





Gear packs



Ring gear removed from the stock diff.



Stock vs Quaife



What do you do with no bearing press? Delissio!





1.5" sch 40 pipe fits perfectly



A couple light taps and it goes on like butter.





Putting in the new bearing races



Ring gear on the Quaife.



Gear packs and everything reinstalled.




Time to mount the single mass flywheel.



Stage III+ full faced disc



Pressure plate mounted.. almost done!



Trans back on the motor, and how she sits now.

[854TGA+]

Great job! Needs more Turbo

[Aequitas_Veritas]

Probably a bad time to mention this, but better late then never, but I was talking to Raf (CarbonR) awhile back and he was having lots of problems with his build with random misfires and general gremlins. He was talking with someone in Sweden about what it could possibly be due to and they told him that they had problems with the flywheels with the circle speed sensor holes. He actually took his whole engine apart to replace his flywheel with circle style holes it in (like the one you just put in) with the style that had more square openings (like you had before).

The reason is because the ECU likes the sharp on-off-on that the square holes provide and the circle holes have more of a gradual change between the on's and off's.Once Raf had his flywheel style replaced he had significantly less problems then he had with the other circle hole style flywheel. I dont think the circle style is a problem for the lower HP guys, but once you start getting up past 300hp I think it could be an issue.

[Kevin.]

Just read this whole thread and I am blown away


your dyno videos do not work anymore.... any chance that you have them somewhere so we could see them again?