Manual Swap Parts Bible


prasamin

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I won’t list part numbers for the following items only because you should try and source these used unless you’re rich, in which case you wouldn’t be driving a 10 year old Volvo. Actually, I’ve provided the P/N’s for the fly and reverse light switch just in case you want to/need to get those new.

1. Pedal set

2. Shifter box with knob and boot

3. Shifter cables (2 total, should be attached to the shifter box)

4. Flywheel 9454774

5. Transmission M56H with or w/o speed sensor

6. Reverse light switch 9442728

7. Center console boot trim 9150995

The following parts you should buy new (I made the mistake of putting in used slave and master cylinders).

1. 272218 Euro 850R Clutch kit ~$325 (comes with pressure plate and disc)

2. 9181780 Release bearing ~$50 (doesn’t come with clutch kit)

3. 9143486 Release fork

4. 9181017 Slave cylinder ~$100

5. 9163880 Master cylinder ~$150

6. 9181437 Clutch hydraulic hose ~$50

7. 9458178 Rear crank/main seal ~$25 (has to be OEM, trust me)

8. 6843481 x2 Axle seals for manual trans ~$10 each

9. 9454743 x12 flywheel to crank bolts ~$1.50 each (need 10, but extra is better)

10. 959219 x8 pressure plate to flywheel bolts ~$.75 each (need 6, but extra is better)

11. 1161645 x3 Volvo synthetic transmission oil (you need 2.2L)

Side notes:

These parts are for a 95 850 N/A, and swap over to the 95 850 Turbo for a manual swap. However, all of these parts are EXACTLY the same for the 94-97 turbo 850’s, sans the transmission itself (hence the speed sensor note next to transmission). I may remember something later on, but this should cover it. Also remember that no pilot bearing is needed for the manual transmission. Toss the one from the auto trans out or you can try to eat it. Also, if you're getting a used flywheel, it is a MUST to get it resurfaces, especially if it's worn even the slightest. This service is like crowning a rotor, and should only cost you $20-$30.

I forget the size socket for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, but I know that the flywheel ones were 12pt bits, and it may have been a 10mm, but I would just get a set ranging from 8mm up to 14mm. The pressure plate bolts are alot smaller, and some of them were hex bits, while others were torx bits, so I would just have a set of each available (ranging from 6mm to 40mm for hex, and t-10 to t-50 for torx). You don't need a clutch alignment too because you can align it on the spline by eye.

If you can afford it, it's the perfect time to throw in a Quaife or Dana limited slip, unless you're lucky and find a Canadian/European M59 (has a limited slip stock in it).

Also, if you have a 94-95 car with speed sensor, and you get an M56H without a speed sensor, you can run 2 wires from either of your front ABS wheel sensors to get the speed signal, although it's not as accurate as the speed sensor itself.

Don't forget, that you will have to reverse the polarity on the crankshaft position sensor to start the car because of the change in the flywheel, and you will have to jumper the PNP switch to trick the ECU into thinking the car is in park or neutral, and you will also have to run two butt connectors from the reverse light switch to the ECU harness to get your backup lights to work. Jason may remember the colors of the wires you need to get to, but I sure as hell don't. Maybe he'll chime in and tell us about anything I missed or his experiences.

This is also a good time to switch to synthetic motor oil, since you'll be replacing the rear crank/main seal. The other seals (if they were to leak) are much easier to get to if they need to be replaced as a result of oil seepage.

Any questions or comments or reminders of something I missed, shoot me a PM and I'll add it. Sorry, I didn't take too many pictures of the process, but there are several pics from other members.

-Pras-

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ahhh where to go on this one... well lets start off here..

1. it CAN be a M56L tranny, as these are fine if you dont have a over moded car, im calling total BS on the M56L hating on VS.

2. just keep your reverse light switch, it most likly wont go bad but if it does then its an easy to replace part at any time.

3. there are two clutch hoses, both should work but i would go with the revised one... its a little more expensive.. around $65 bucks.

5. RMS - yes go with OEM, they have a revised one out that lasts a heck of a lot longer then the older ones.

6. if you have the used flywheel bolts or pressure place bolts then just use them, they will work fine.. make sure to get the right torque specs

7. volvo recommends using 5W-30 full syn. mobile1 oil in these trannys...

8. RPM sensor(crankshaft position sensor) - you might not have to reverse the polarity as i didnt!... so dont mess with it till you have to

9. make sure that the round alignment dowels for the tranny to engine are in either the tranny or the engine and not both or you might get cought up once you start installing!

10. resurfacing isnt a must, i didnt resurface mine and its 100% noise free and smooooth. I would say maybe lighten it a little in order to get the RPMs to drop a faster then stock.

this is just advise for everyone, its what i have found after talking with people on here and with my boss that has been a volvo mechanic for over 30 years.

sorry pras if any of this offends...

Edit: haha $hit this is a PARTS bible... ohh well there is still some info for people!

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ahhh where to go on this one... well lets start off here..

1. it CAN be a M56L tranny, as these are fine if you dont have a over moded car, im calling total BS on the M56L hating on VS.

2. just keep your reverse light switch, it most likly wont go bad but if it does then its an easy to replace part at any time.

3. there are two clutch hoses, both should work but i would go with the revised one... its a little more expensive.. around $65 bucks.

5. RMS - yes go with OEM, they have a revised one out that lasts a heck of a lot longer then the older ones.

6. if you have the used flywheel bolts or pressure place bolts then just use them, they will work fine.. make sure to get the right torque specs

7. volvo recommends using 5W-30 full syn. mobile1 oil in these trannys...

8. RPM sensor(crankshaft position sensor) - you might not have to reverse the polarity as i didnt!... so dont mess with it till you have to

9. make sure that the round alignment dowels for the tranny to engine are in either the tranny or the engine and not both or you might get cought up once you start installing!

10. resurfacing isnt a must, i didnt resurface mine and its 100% noise free and smooooth. I would say maybe lighten it a little in order to get the RPMs to drop a faster then stock.

this is just advise for everyone, its what i have found after talking with people on here and with my boss that has been a volvo mechanic for over 30 years.

sorry pras if any of this offends...

Edit: haha $hit this is a PARTS bible... ohh well there is still some info for people!

All I will say to you is that if you're going to do it, do it right.

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All I will say to you is that if you're going to do it, do it right.

ohh man if every mechanic did it "right" then people would be paying some high bills...there are things you can get away with, spread the cost in a way. all the things i listed have lasted me and i know the state of the items in question..

you probably spent a lot on your swap as i spent almost nothing and its 100% solid..

Go to work 9 hours a day working on volvos and then you can say what you can get way with...but hey im only 21 so what do i know right?

im not trying to start a fight here, im just saying that people need more then one opionin to decide what the best method is for them personaly.. thats what this whole post was about correct? you wouldnt just beleive someone when they said "oh you need a new rear main seal"... you would bring the car some place else to get a second opionin... and thats one reason everyone is on here, to get more then just one opinion so that they can decide for themselves.

so my word to everyone doing a swap or anything else your no 100% on is read read read and make up your own mind, becuase everyone is right in their own minds... so make a choice.. M56H or M56L haha just kidding..

Edit: "do it right the first time" I'm kinda with you, i was going to get all new stuff and rebuild my M56H becuase that what i was told to do on here, then my boss said just work with what you have, "time is money baby" so i didnt get many things new and i just installed the M56L(which i love) and everything works perfect...

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ohh man if every mechanic did it "right" then people would be paying some high bills...there are things you can get away with, spread the cost in a way. all the things i listed have lasted me and i know the state of the items in question..

you probably spent a lot on your swap as i spent almost nothing and its 100% solid..

Go to work 9 hours a day working on volvos and then you can say what you can get way with...but hey im only 21 so what do i know right?

im not trying to start a fight here, im just saying that people need more then one opionin to decide what the best method is for them personaly.. thats what this whole post was about correct? you wouldnt just beleive someone when they said "oh you need a new rear main seal"... you would bring the car some place else to get a second opionin... and thats one reason everyone is on here, to get more then just one opinion so that they can decide for themselves.

so my word to everyone doing a swap or anything else your no 100% on is read read read and make up your own mind, becuase everyone is right in their own minds... so make a choice.. M56H or M56L haha just kidding..

Edit: "do it right the first time" I'm kinda with you, i was going to get all new stuff and rebuild my M56H becuase that what i was told to do on here, then my boss said just work with what you have, "time is money baby" so i didnt get many things new and i just installed the M56L(which i love) and everything works perfect...

couple questions for you.

1. why you didn't have to swap rpm sensor wires is because you have an OLDER style flywheel, if someone gets the NEW one, then they would have to swap polarities as the design is basically reversed. did you know THAT?

2. you're an idiot to not get a flywheel resurfaced. if you REALLY work in a shop, then you should have more common sense than that.

3. do YOU even know the differences between an m56L and an m56H? it seems like you're blindly leading yourself to believe that the L version is better! but do you really know why?

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couple questions for you.

1. why you didn't have to swap rpm sensor wires is because you have an OLDER style flywheel, if someone gets the NEW one, then they would have to swap polarities as the design is basically reversed. did you know THAT?

2. you're an idiot to not get a flywheel resurfaced. if you REALLY work in a shop, then you should have more common sense than that.

3. do YOU even know the differences between an m56L and an m56H? it seems like you're blindly leading yourself to believe that the L version is better! but do you really know why?

1. Yeah, its stated in the service bulletin, i was saying this becuase some people might not know the exact flywheel they have.

2. so why resurface? if its not glazed over and there are no hot spots pressent it should be fine.

3. most of the design is no different between the two, the internal set-up is the same along with identical synchros. the difference is in the ratios and a little variation in the gear selecting mechanism.

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1. Yeah, its stated in the service bulletin, i was saying this becuase some people might not know the exact flywheel they have.

2. so why resurface? if its not glazed over and there are no hot spots pressent it should be fine.

3. most of the design is no different between the two, the internal set-up is the same along with identical synchros. the difference is in the ratios and a little variation in the gear selecting mechanism.

not bad.

if you can find that service bulletin with pictures, it would be a good idea to throw it up on here to people can identify which flywheel they have. i know that the flywheels with the milled grooves require swaping, and the ones with drilled holes don't. pictures always help though :P

resurfacing is just good measure, it's cheap insurance, just like replacing the RMS when doing the swap.

i'm impressed you know that about the shift forks. :tup:

p.s. pras, the m59 had the limited slip, the m58 was the awd 5 spd that came in awd 850 wagons.

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not bad.

if you can find that service bulletin with pictures, it would be a good idea to throw it up on here to people can identify which flywheel they have. i know that the flywheels with the milled grooves require swaping, and the ones with drilled holes don't. pictures always help though :P

resurfacing is just good measure, it's cheap insurance, just like replacing the RMS when doing the swap.

i'm impressed you know that about the shift forks. :tup:

p.s. pras, the m59 had the limited slip, the m58 was the awd 5 spd that came in awd 850 wagons.

I think its on VADIS and Alldata, i have also seen it posted on here a while back, but that might be hard to find. I will see if i can get the full details, but if i remember there isnt much usefull information on it.

Yes you are right about the cheap insurance, I knew the flywheel was 100% that i had becuase it came out of one of my cars.

haha i thought this was gonna turn into an all out fight. anyway, I hope this helps people make up their mind on what to do and what not to do in a swap, or any other project for that matter.

anyone up for a how-to write up? I will try and make one if i can get some good pics!

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What are people paying for M56H transmissions these days? I looked around a couple of places online just to get a general feel for it, but I couldn't really find any prices. Can the transmissions be pulled out from underneath or do you have to pull out the engine? Sorry for the newb questions, just trying to get a feel for the work involved for the mechanic.

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What are people paying for M56H transmissions these days? I looked around a couple of places online just to get a general feel for it, but I couldn't really find any prices. Can the transmissions be pulled out from underneath or do you have to pull out the engine? Sorry for the newb questions, just trying to get a feel for the work involved for the mechanic.

trans alone should cost anywhere from $200-$1000. Now, if you can find an entire car, then score everything for around a grand, then you're really set.

trans can be taken out from underneath no problems, though my guy pulled the entire motor out from the bottom of the car.

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not bad.

if you can find that service bulletin with pictures, it would be a good idea to throw it up on here to people can identify which flywheel they have. i know that the flywheels with the milled grooves require swaping, and the ones with drilled holes don't. pictures always help though :P

resurfacing is just good measure, it's cheap insurance, just like replacing the RMS when doing the swap.

i'm impressed you know that about the shift forks. :tup:

p.s. pras, the m59 had the limited slip, the m58 was the awd 5 spd that came in awd 850 wagons.

you don't need to get the fly wheel resurfaced if you check it with a straight edge and feeler gauge and it checks out fine. Also, if there isn't any discoloration or cracking then you fine. I didn't resurface mine and I haven't had any issues. I'm not one to half ass something either.

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New style,

clutch1.jpg

Old style has holes drilled in the side.

Overall experience with M56L and modded T5's is that it won't last as long as an M56H under heavy usage.

Maybe something to do with the way the gears are treated?

More load on the diff because of the final drive ratio?

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you don't need to get the fly wheel resurfaced if you check it with a straight edge and feeler gauge and it checks out fine. Also, if there isn't any discoloration or cracking then you fine. I didn't resurface mine and I haven't had any issues. I'm not one to half jerk something either.

+1... thats what im talking about haha

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What are people paying for M56H transmissions these days? I looked around a couple of places online just to get a general feel for it, but I couldn't really find any prices. Can the transmissions be pulled out from underneath or do you have to pull out the engine? Sorry for the newb questions, just trying to get a feel for the work involved for the mechanic.

Pulling the trans from under the car is really easy if you have the right tools from volvo.. although if i did a swap again i would just pull the whole engine out of the top as it doesnt take much time and it makes for a hell of a lot easyer tranny to engine bolt up... the d@mn shift fork gets in the way when you install the tranny under the car. many different ways to do it but which one you choose is up to you really..

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