12 replies to this topic

[Slater]

I am trying to replace the front hydraulic engine mount and it's starting to irritate me. VADIS says you simply unbolt the upper torque arm and the lower transmission mount, jack the engine up by the oil pan, unbolt and swap out the hydraulic mount, lower the engine and viola. The whole procedure is about 4 sentences long. Gotta love VADIS - sounds like a 10 minute job right?

Well, I am about to put the old mount back in because I am at my wits end here. The new mount is an inch taller than the old mount and I can't jack the engine up high enough to get it to clear the new mount.

Has anyone done this before that can offer any advice? Do I have to precompress the mount in a clamp or vice to get it to fit? I even went so far as to remove the starter and the engine mount bracket itself, thinking that would make it easier but no dice.

I also wedged a giant crowbar between the tranny and subframe and am jacking the heck out of it - that gets me close, but the holes are still too high by about a half an inch still. I even piled 60 lbs of dumbells on the top stud of the mount at the same time I was jacking the engine from below to try and compress it and get it all lined up, but hasn't helped yet.

A little help here would be appreciated...it shouldn't be this hard.

P.S. Yes I verified it's the correct part. The part number is stamped right onto the mount (old and new match). It's almost like it's the wrong part but it's not. Oh, it's a genuine Volvo mount too, so this thing should fit like a glove.

Edited by Slater, 05 December 2006 - 06:54 PM.

[Slater]

Never mind, I ended up jamming a 2x4 in and then giving it hell with the crow bar and finally got it lined up.

Word to the wise - definitely have someone help you with this. It is not something that you would want to do by yourself. I had to step on the crow bar with my foot while leaning up and over and slipping the bolts in with my fingers (and this was after an hour of failed attempts). It would have gone 5xs quicker with one person prying and the other inserting the bolts.

Also, VADIS is wrong - there is no way in heck you will be able to do this using their 3 sentence procedure. Their asinine procedure claims to jack the engine up and leave the engine mount bracket on. If you can do that I will personally come to your house and shake your hand. The reason that can't work is that the mount has like a 2" stud sticking out of the top. You would have to jack the engine up and over this stud which is impossible - I could barely get the engine jacked up enough to evven get the mounting bracket bolts lined up, and that was maybe 1 inch total.

If you are going to attempt to replace this mount with the engine still in the car, you HAVE to remove the starter completely (no biggie as it's 3 bolts) AND the engine mount bracket (also 3 bolts). Then drop the engine mount with bracket as one. Put the bracket on the new mount (loose - i.e. no bolts), slide it up into place and start the tedious task of prying the bejebus out of the engine while praying the bolts line up. Once the mounting bracket lines up, insert the bolts and tighten. THEN you can replace the nut on the top stud of the mount and the bolt on the underside of the mount.

Then go drink a 6-pack cause you definitely earned it.

Word to the wise - if you ever have the engine out (to rebuild or do a tranny awap etc) replace this mount. It would be sooooo much easier to do this with the engine out.

Edited by Slater, 05 December 2006 - 08:50 PM.

[PullMyFinger]

What about dropping the subframe?

[T-5Bandit]

Never mind, I ended up jamming a 2x4 in and then giving it hell with the crow bar and finally got it lined up.

Word to the wise - definitely have someone help you with this. It is not something that you would want to do by yourself. I had to step on the crow bar with my foot while leaning up and over and slipping the bolts in with my fingers (and this was after an hour of failed attempts). It would have gone 5xs quicker with one person prying and the other inserting the bolts.

Also, VADIS is wrong - there is no way in heck you will be able to do this using their 3 sentence procedure. Their asinine procedure claims to jack the engine up and leave the engine mount bracket on. If you can do that I will personally come to your house and shake your hand. The reason that can't work is that the mount has like a 2" stud sticking out of the top. You would have to jack the engine up and over this stud which is impossible - I could barely get the engine jacked up enough to evven get the mounting bracket bolts lined up, and that was maybe 1 inch total.

If you are going to attempt to replace this mount with the engine still in the car, you HAVE to remove the starter completely (no biggie as it's 3 bolts) AND the engine mount bracket (also 3 bolts). Then drop the engine mount with bracket as one. Put the bracket on the new mount (loose - i.e. no bolts), slide it up into place and start the tedious task of prying the bejebus out of the engine while praying the bolts line up. Once the mounting bracket lines up, insert the bolts and tighten. THEN you can replace the nut on the top stud of the mount and the bolt on the underside of the mount.

Then go drink a 6-pack cause you definitely earned it.

Word to the wise - if you ever have the engine out (to rebuild or do a tranny awap etc) replace this mount. It would be sooooo much easier to do this with the engine out.

By referring to the 3 bolt bracket, it sounds like you are talking about the rear hydrolic mount. I had to do the same thing to remove and replace, it was a big big bitch.

[Slater]

By referring to the 3 bolt bracket, it sounds like you are talking about the rear hydrolic mount. I had to do the same thing to remove and replace, it was a big big oh yeah!.

Nope, this is definitely the front hydraulic mount - the one under the intake manifold, starter, etc.

[Slater]

What about dropping the subframe?

That may work, but I would have needed a way to support the engine from the top, which I did not have at the time (my buddy has my engine crane). Plus the car was on ramps which makes it a PITA to try and do anything with the subframe...

Edited by Slater, 05 December 2006 - 09:58 PM.

[Mesoam]

hmm

maybe someone can confirm that the mount needs to be compressed?

where did you get the mount from? OEM volvo?

[jeffo]

Replaced all of mine - front pad(under crank pully), L&R hydraulic, upper/lower torque, and firewall.

I unbolted the front pad, hydraulics and lower torque from subframe. Also removed upper torque arm. Then used jack and a piece of wood to raise engine from subframe. It was pretty tight, as you found out - have to clear those studs -but I found this to work. I think the key is to have ALL mounts disconected from chassis/subframe before trying to jack engine.

Jeff

BTW - starter stayed in, but removed fan to access nut on front hydraulic. Rear hydraulic had a heat sheild that slips over the stud and is bolted to the transaxle case by one bolt. No need to remove the "3 bolt mount" for the rear hydraulic. I think it took about 2-2.5 hours.

Edited by jeffo, 05 December 2006 - 11:54 PM.

[rolly850R]

Replaced all mine as well,

I did the same as Jeff, Unbolted all the mounts (after a lot of frustration), jacked the motor up as far as I could - this was scary! and fitted them back in there making sure that I put the longest bolt/end of the new mount in first.

I would have to agree that it was totally frustrating but I managed to do it without removing anything else - fan or starter.

I don't drink but I sure as hell felt like it about 1/2 way in to it.

[T-5Bandit]

Replaced all of mine - front pad(under crank pully), L&R hydraulic, upper/lower torque, and firewall.

I unbolted the front pad, hydraulics and lower torque from subframe. Also removed upper torque arm. Then used jack and a piece of wood to raise engine from subframe. It was pretty tight, as you found out - have to clear those studs -but I found this to work. I think the key is to have ALL mounts disconected from chassis/subframe before trying to jack engine.

Jeff

BTW - starter stayed in, but removed fan to access nut on front hydraulic. Rear hydraulic had a heat sheild that slips over the stud and is bolted to the transaxle case by one bolt. No need to remove the "3 bolt mount" for the rear hydraulic. I think it took about 2-2.5 hours.

How did you get to the top nut on the rear hydrolic mount without pulling the whole bracket?

[jeffo]

How did you get to the top nut on the rear hydrolic mount without pulling the whole bracket?

flex socket and extension

[DVolvoguy850T5]

flex socket and extension

You can get to this nut with a wobly socket adapter and a 24 inch extention really easy. Stick some tape in the socket and that will hold the nut when it is removed. Mine needs r&r but is a pita when it is cold. I can't get the old mount out of the car with out the starter out or the fan shroud out. ( I miss my 89 Olds Cutlass )

[jeffo]

Should also note that I removed the splash pan, or whatever it is called, that clips into the lower front bumper and is held to unibody by a 10 mm bolt on either side of car. Removing fan (15-20 min) was necessary to get the front mount in since the shroud was in the way. Maybe those who removed starter could say if they left fan in.

Edited by jeffo, 06 December 2006 - 06:06 PM.