51 replies to this topic

[Geevs]

Passenger-side outer CV boot is leaking a bit so decided to have it replaced tomorrow. My parts supplier carries a kit made by EMPI. Anyone advise if this is a good quality product and not Scan-tech quality? Thanks.

[r850glt]

EMPI is widely used on VW, audi products

[Geevs]

Thanks Rene. I do remember seeing EMPI stickers on VWs - the logo looks like a basketball.

[MadeInJapan]

This is the new EMPI axle link. New Axle

I agree...don't bother with a CV boot kit...it's 2/5 hours of labor you'll have to pay for, or more.
Buy an axle and be done with it...30mins labor- tops.
I got my axle from www.raxles.com (you'll have to call them- talk to Marty).

[Mesoam]

Geevs i'll second the replacing of the whole axel...

The inner is made out of the same material and yes sees less road abuse (sand, rocks e/t/c) but will still be nears its shelf life

In addition to the wear on the actual axel parts

[Geevs]

Hey thanks to all. Looks like a new axle is the way to go. Is this something that is DIY? I have never done this before but have done front and rear shocks and springs.

I recall raxles.com mentioned here several times so they must be good but I also recall reading that they are rebuilt and cost more than the new EMPIs at the above Eeuroparts link. AutohauzAZ has the EMPI for even less. Anyone use EMPI axles? What about DSS axles? FCP now carries this brand for $119 new without core charge, supposedly exceeds OEM specs:

http://fcpgroton.com...htm#rearbearing

Thanks!

Edited by Geevs, 22 December 2006 - 05:23 AM.

[MadeInJapan]

Stay away from the DDS....have read several posts that they were not up to snuff.

[Geevs]

Stay away from the DDS....have read several posts that they were not up to snuff.

OK, good advise. Now to decide whether it's EMPI or Raxle.

[Keaton85]

Hey thanks to all. Looks like a new axle is the way to go. Is this something that is DIY? I have never done this before but have done front and rear shocks and springs.

This is an easy job to do, it just takes some penetrating oil to get the ball point out from the hub, then two 12mm bolts to take the carrier off and its free. probably an hour job on the ground if the ball joint isnt to stuck. i believe its a 30mm to take axle off the hub, haha i just did it today but i cant remember the numbers. Anyway with a little bit of your time you should be perfectly fine doing it yourself.

[Geevs]

Thanks for the advise. Funny that we are experiencing the same probs - dropped white injectors doing PCV, now replacing axle due to CV boot. Anyway, PMed you about your injectors.

[Keaton85]

Thanks for the advise. Funny that we are experiencing the same probs - dropped white injectors doing PCV, now replacing axle due to CV boot. Anyway, PMed you about your injectors.

haha i didnt even notice the name, i was just shooting the stuff on here. anyway nope the last time i did the CV joints was my 5spd swap. I work around the CV joints almost every other day on other cars besides mine, getting that control arm free is a PITA, thats why MAC tools invented a special pry bar:)

P.S. I dont even need the white injectors at the moment, but who can pass them up for free right?

Edited by binglax09, 22 December 2006 - 06:39 AM.

[echristodo]

This is an easy job to do, it just takes some penetrating oil to get the ball point out from the hub, then two 12mm bolts to take the carrier off and its free. probably an hour job on the ground if the ball joint isnt to stuck. i believe its a 30mm to take axle off the hub, haha i just did it today but i cant remember the numbers. Anyway with a little bit of your time you should be perfectly fine doing it yourself.

be careful with that ball joint though, if you mushroom it you will be breaking out a hacksaw and a file... Pickle fork anyone? PB blaster is your friend for this job, a lot of it.

[whitev70r]

Just to clarify, my inner CV boot needs to be replaced, is the consensus that I should replace my whole axle?

[rp850]

This is a great thread. I was just about to write up the same thing. I have one question though. I was planning on following the Bay 13 directions for replacing the wheel bearing since it is the same as what you'd need to do to release the axle from the hub. Bay 13 shows how to free the control arm from the subframe connections rather than at the ball joint. Having replaced the control arms once before, I think it might be easier to leave the ball joint in and go for removing the arm at the subframe. I just used a dead blow hammer to whack the arm out. Just my opinion but I'd rather not mess with the ball joint unless I had to since it sounds like it's a bigger PITA than the bolts on the subframe.

This is an easy job to do, it just takes some penetrating oil to get the ball point out from the hub, then two 12mm bolts to take the carrier off and its free. probably an hour job on the ground if the ball joint isnt to stuck. i believe its a 30mm to take axle off the hub, haha i just did it today but i cant remember the numbers. Anyway with a little bit of your time you should be perfectly fine doing it yourself.

[ArmyINFDoc]

It would only be worthwhile to do just the cv boot if you found the tear as soon as it happened. Leave it torn and dirt and sand gets in there and imo opinion compromises the integrity of the joint itself just after a few days so just go with the axle either way

[rp850]

For a DIYer like me it is easier to swap the axle. If you're a 'real' mechanic like some of the folks on this board then you might opt for replacing the boots and save the cash by putting your own labor into it. My indy charges $225 to replace the boots per side but $245 to replace the axle. The first way is all labor the second way is all parts. My philosophy is that I might as well put a brand new axle in for $20 more.

Just to clarify, my inner CV boot needs to be replaced, is the consensus that I should replace my whole axle?

[whitev70r]

It's been cracked a while. Thanks for all the info. You are right, for $20 difference, it would be more prudent to get a new axle. New axle it shall be.