17 replies to this topic

[Kashif]

One would remove the control arm if they are replacing it or they are servicing the CV joint or hub replacement.

There are two ways to remove the control arm from the car. One is to start by removing the control arm ball joint from the strut and then pull it out of the strut. Then remove the control arm bolts that secure it to the subframe. But this method puts too much stress on the control arm ball joint. Through research here on Volvospeed and Slater’s suggestion I came up with this slight modification to the procedure.

I began by first jacking up and placing the car on jackstands on both sides. I then removing the sway bar links from the strut this allowed me to move the strut more freely when I removed the control arm. Trust me this helps alot!!

Next I removed the blots that secure the control arm to the sub frame
Here


And Here



Then I removed the bolt that connects control arm ball joint to the strut.



Once these three bolts are out one can easily remove the control arm without putting any stress on any component.


Edit: I wanted to add this addition from Alvin
"Just want to add that the two inner control arm bolts should be re-installed but not tightened and torqued until the arm is raised to 'normal' riding height. This is so the control arm's rubber bushings is not stressed when the weight of the car puts the arm to the normal ride height."

Installation is the reverse of removal.
The bolts that secure the control arm to the subframe are torque to 51 ft*lbs and another 120 degrees.
The bolts that secure the control arm ball joint to the strut are torque to 37 ft*lbs
If you have a 93’ the ball joint can separate from the control arm and their bolts are torque to 13 ft*lbs and another 120 degrees.

Edited by Kashif, 08 April 2007 - 12:49 AM.

[Keaton85]

If your removing the control arm to replace it anyway then who cares about the stress on the ball joint, the amount of stress you are putting on it is nothing compared to when your driving the car over the life of that part! take the ball joint off first and then the bolts on the subframe, dont bother with the sway bar link as the strut assembly will move more then enough.

Anyway, nice pics!

Edit: not everyone has the same type of control arm that you have, that arm is aftermarket note the three bolts that hold the ball joint on there, the one peice design that has the ball joint built in is more common and in my opionion better due to less flex.

Edited by binglax09, 30 December 2006 - 08:30 PM.

[Kashif]

If your removing the control arm to replace it anyway then who cares about the stress on the ball joint, the amount of stress you are putting on it is nothing compared to when your driving the car over the life of that part! take the ball joint off first and then the bolts on the subframe, dont bother with the sway bar link as the strut assembly will move more then enough.

Anyway, nice pics!

Edit: not everyone has the same type of control arm that you have, that arm is aftermarket note the three bolts that hold the ball joint on there, the one peice design that has the ball joint built in is more common and in my opionion better due to less flex.

I agree that if you are removing the control arm to replace it, then it does not matter what you do to the old control arm. But if you are not too strong (like me ) then I would rather spend a little more time to remove something more easily with less force.

And yes you can do this without removing the Sway bar links. I did it here because my brother's Sway bar links where shot to hell and I had to replace them anyway.

And true most people don't have these control arms because they are off a 93 850. After 93 Volvo change their control arms to the ones you are referring to.

Edited by Kashif, 30 December 2006 - 09:08 PM.

[Keaton85]

I agree that if you are removing the control arm to replace it, then it does not matter what you do to the old control arm. But if you are not too strong (like me ) then I would rather spend a little more time to remove something more easily with less force.

And yes you can do this without removing the Sway bar links. I did it here because my brother's Sway bar links where shot to hell and I had to replace them anyway.

And true most people don't have these control arms because they are off a 93 850. After 93 Volvo change their control arms to the ones you are referring to.
I agree that if you are removing the control arm to replace it, then it does not matter what you do to the old control arm. But if you are not too strong (like me ) then I would rather spend a little more time to remove something more easily with less force.

And yes you can do this without removing the Sway bar links. I did it here because my brother's Sway bar links where shot to hell and I had to replace them anyway.

And true most people don't have these control arms because they are off a 93 850. After 93 Volvo change their control arms to the ones you are referring to.

wouldnt it be more force doing it the way you did? If you leave the control arm bolted up to the subframe then the arm is secure and when you put any force on it to take the ball joint out the first thing that will give is the ball joint instead of having the control arm flop around every time you hit it or force the ball joint out in any way correct?

[Kashif]

wouldnt it be more force doing it the way you did?

Nope because I have done it both ways. And trust me it takes a LOT of force to pull the ball joint out of the strut if the control arm is still connected to the subframe. The ball joint takes on a weird angle and it takes much more force to pull it out. The way I have described take much less force. If you don't believe me try it for yourself.

[Kashif]

They are on '94 also. Called integrated ball joint.

Some 94's not all. I don't have them on my car.

[Keaton85]

i have one of each on my parts car haha...

I will have to take you up on that and try it, my inner control arm bushings are shot so i will probably be replacing them next week or whenever a lift frees up at the shop. I do see what your saying though, it does get cought up but it also has a lot to do with the rust.

[Kashif]

The break on the ball joint occured in the year of '94, some have them built in and some dont like Kasif . If the balljoint is not built in you can get them for around $16. Heres the pic of them from FCP Ball Joint Page

That what I bought for my Brother's car.

[Netrix]

This is for front control arms? What about rear control arms?

[Ozark Lee]

This is for front control arms? What about rear control arms?

There are no rear control arms per se. The rear suspension of the 850s have what Volvo called "Delta Links". There are only 4 moving parts in the delta links, the end links which tie each independent trailing arm to the chassis, and the bushings that tie the two trailing arms together at two places. They all have rubber or a rubberlike material that allows the rear suspension to flex in a turn. It actually, dynamically, steers the rear wheels which is why the 850 corners like it is on rails.

...Lee

PS: What a tough crowd. Kashif goes to considerable time and effort to document his repairs and all he gets is grief. I for one find it potentially valuable and I appreciate it.

[Kashif]

Thanks Lee
I appreciated the comment.

[Fred1948]

Thanks Lee
I appreciated the comment.

Good job.
You have to experience the difficulty removing the ball joint stud from the hub before you will believe it. It will start to come out and then the angle changes and it hangs up. I ruined the ball joint on the first one that I removed.

I now remove the ball joint bolt and loosen the stud from the hub ( usually a couple of hard blows to the side of the hub assembly that holds the ball joint stud). I then either remove the two control arm bolts from the subframe and drop the control arm or if not replacing the control arm, I have found that if you can pull down on the control arm at the ball joint end at the same time that you push in on the lower part of the brake rotor the stud will come out easily. It is not easy to push in with enough force to correct the angle to free up the stud but one way is to install the wheel and with hands at 12 and 6, push in at 6 and pull out at 12. Really a 2 person job because you need a third hand to pull down on the control arm!

[Keaton85]

PS: What a tough crowd. Kashif goes to considerable time and effort to document his repairs and all he gets is grief. I for one find it potentially valuable and I appreciate it.

Have to keep th VS members on their feet!... anyway its good to have some other opinions..

[AlvinL]

Installation is the reverse of removal.
The bolts that secure the control arm to the subframe are torque to 51 ft*lbs and another 120 degrees.
The bolts that secure the control arm ball joint to the strut are torque to 37 ft*lbs
If you have a 93’ the ball joint can separate from the control arm and their bolts are torque to 13 ft*lbs and another 120 degrees.

Just want to add that the two inner control arm bolts should be re-installed but not tightened and torqued until the arm is raised to 'normal' riding height. This is so the control arm's rubber bushings is not stressed when the weight of the car puts the arm to the normal ride height.

Nice pictures!

[Kashif]

I added your addition Alvin.

[T-5Bandit]

It actually, dynamically, steers the rear wheels which is why the 850 corners like it is on rails.

... 850 corning like on rails, classic! I am assuming you are being sarcastic when you say this, right?