Dash Removal Writeup

[BtownVolvo 1,260]

Recently, I have discovered a "shortcut" of sorts that should make this easier. Follow the instructions below, but removal of the dash pad and cluster is unnecessary. This will however make it slightly more cumbersome when removing it from the car, but should in turn save you some time!

Well I couldn't find the original thread anymore so here is a carbon copy.

First of all, let me say that this was done on a 1999 S70 and will work for all trims. It could possibly be different for 1998 and will more than likely be different for 850's.

One of the main reasons your dash is squeaking/ratteling is because 4 studs that screw into the firewall have shattered. These are the tools and supplies you'll need:

-General tools and sockets

-Torx screwdrivers

-thin strips of aluminum or other maluable metal.

-wood screws

-new screw plates (only if you are missing any)

-Zip-Ties (optional)

Ok. Here are the steps at a glance:

**DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE (-) LEAD TO THE BATTERY TO AVOID AN SRS CODE** (but make sure electric seats are all the way back first!!)

1.) Take off the top dash pad and remove other accessories.

2.) Remove the center console.

3.) Remove the windshield wiper cover.

4.) Remove steering wheel+turn signal and windshield wiper stalks.

5.) Remove lots of T25 screws and a yellow plug.

1.) Removing the dash pad and other accessories.

Open the glovebox door and start taking out all the T25 screws you see. Give the box a good jerk and pull it out. Again, pull out all the T25 screws you see and set them aside. The bottom row should release the bottom storage compartment.

Pry out all of the air vents and stereo mesh on the pad. Unscrew the seven T25 screws behind all of them. There are two screws above/in front of the instrument cluster. Remove these screws.

Now direct your attention to the glovebox. Along the top are three 10mm bolts holding in the dash pad.

I have found that in some cases, the far right bolt is actually a stud. What I did was simply unscrew the nut grounding the wire and use a pair of vice grips to unscrew it. Afterwards, replace the stud with an actual screw.

Lift off the dash pad and notice the passenger airbag is still connected; pinch the ends of the connector on the end of the module and pull out, then slide out the clip on the bottom.

The dash pad can now be easily lifted out. Now remove your radio, thermostat controls, and hazard light switch.

2.) Remove the center console.

Open the armrest and pry out the cover at the bottom. Underneath are two 8mm screws that hold the entire console in. Unscrew them.

Release the parking break (if enabled) and pull the cover towards the drivers seat until it snaps out. Underneath, there are two white connectors. Seperate them. From here, put the car in neutral and lift up on the entire console and pull it out of the car.

The center console should now be out of the car.

3.) Removing the windshileld wiper cover.

Remove the caps on the windshield wiper stalks. Use a 13mm socket to remove the windshield wipers.

Remove these five screws:

Pry off the clamps holding the two rubber drain hoses on both sides off.

Underneath, you will find 4 10mm bolts directly under the windshield running the entire length of the firewall. These 4 bolts screw through the firewall into the broken tabs and thread into a metal plate sandwiched in between the ghetto eco-plastic that probably doesn't exist in your car now. Unscrew all of them. The one behind the windshield wiper motor is a little trickey.

4.) Removing the steering wheel.

Remove the three screws on the bottom of the steering column cover and pull off the bottom half. The bottom half can be pried out like so:

Turn the key to Position | or || and turn the wheel sideways. Unscrew the two screws to pry out the airbag (you will need a long T25(possibly T30) screwdriver). It takes a little bit of persuading, but it'll come off.

Next, remove the white plug that fits in the back of the airbag. It pulls straight out. Next, unscrew the big screw in the middle of the wheel. You will now see some splines. Take a ultra-fine point sharpie or pencil and mark a straight line across the diameter. This will help make sure you put the wheel back on straight.

You can now pull off the wheel. Remove the wiper and turn signal stalks.

5.) Remove LOTS of T25 screws and yellow plug.

Now back to the interior. There is a black cover that pops out on the very far outside bottom of the dash. Pull straight towards the back of the car and it will pop out. Behind will be, you guessed it, another T25! Remove the one on both the drivers and passengers side.

Next, lay in the drivers foot well and look up towards the relays and you will see a yellow plug. Pull out the purple retainer and just lift out the yellow plug!

If you want pictures of the entire wiring harness just let me know and i'll post it up!

From here you should now be able to lift/contort the entire dash out!

Picture of Socals just a little more clearer:

Now to fix the problem!Thanks Socal!

This is your problem

There are 4 plastic clips (which are molded into the defrost vent and the dash console itself) that go over 4 square nuts, which are what the 4 bolts in the firewall screw into.

When plastic breaks the square nuts are no longer being held in place and the dashboard is no longer attached to the firewall.

The crude but effective fix I came up with, was to make some rough metal strips which hold the nut against the dash, and which are screwed into the defrost vent. After padding it around the strap and reassembling, it totally eliminated the racket that my dash was making.

Here is a crude illustration of the general process:

For more pictures and a different method, Click Here!

Reinstall everything in reverse order!

A big thanks goes out to Andrew (Socal), Tom (tomtbone), and Seamus!

Good Luck and Happy Wrenching!

Reid

[maiku 1]

SOMEONE PIN THIS

[S60RDUDE 1]

+1 for the pin great post.

[BtownVolvo 1,260]

SOMEONE PIN THIS

Deja Vous anyone?

[POOKDIZZLE 1]

Nice post, do the evap while you're in there ;)

[HtownTurboBrick 334]

+1 pin it

good job reid, see you kept yourself busy since leaving houston on saturday lol. now come back down i want my track 21 title back...0.93 second difference my a$$ lol.

[Boomin850 14]

Annnnddd bookmarked for whenever I get off my lazy ass and do the evap. :lol:

[ovlov780t 0]

+1 on the pin. Im assuming this dash removal will also aid the removal of instrument cluster and re lighting(violet)

[matt b 3,618]

+1 on the pin. Im assuming this dash removal will also aid the removal of instrument cluster and re lighting(violet)

You don't need to remove the entire dash for a cluster removal, just lift the driver side enough to slide the cluster out.

[ovlov780t 0]

thnx

[Zeno 0]

Great job there!

I'll get my tools ready, and get ready for some work...

That probably take a couple of days....

[scandalo 273]

You don't need to remove the entire dash for a cluster removal, just lift the driver side enough to slide the cluster out.

I found it hard to slide it out at the side. If this is the first time doing it (assuming it is) just take off the whole dash. The screws are numerous but I think you need to be able to fully see what you are doing. There are a few plugs on the back of it that need to be disconnected and they are not the easiest to dislodge. I ended up just lifting the thing up to get it out. The windsheild will make it hard but it will get out.

Also this writeup didnt take into accout the gauge cluster from what I saw. Guess you can leave it in when you rip the whole thing out?

Gonna +1 it for the pin. Gonna be the first(maybe) to say that there needs to be a section for this sorta thing. Great info with great pics. Despite a repost.

[BtownVolvo 1,260]

I found it hard to slide it out at the side. If this is the first time doing it (assuming it is) just take off the whole dash. The screws are numerous but I think you need to be able to fully see what you are doing. There are a few plugs on the back of it that need to be disconnected and they are not the easiest to dislodge. I ended up just lifting the thing up to get it out. The windsheild will make it hard but it will get out.

Also this writeup didnt take into accout the guage from what I saw. Guess you can leave it in when you rip the whole thing out?

Gonna +1 it for the pin. Gonna be the first(maybe) to say that there needs to be a section for this sorta thing. Great info with great pics. Despite a repost.

Gauge?? To take out the cluster all you have to do is take off the top dash pad which is maybe a tops of 15 minutes.

Also, like i stated at the very top, i couldn't find the original post through searching (i assume it was lost during the crash) so i just reposted it.

[scandalo 273]

Gauge?? To take out the cluster all you have to do is take off the top dash pad which is maybe a tops of 15 minutes.

Also, like i stated at the very top, i couldn't find the original post through searching (i assume it was lost during the crash) so i just reposted it.

editied.

Gauge=cluster. And I meant the dashpad ( that which the passenger airbag is connected). Can't get my self across for some reason.

Regardless, that post helped me get my gauge (wink) out.

I'm glad you did this. This warranted a repost.

[beachnut 3]

70 series dash pads are also easier to remove than the 850 since you don't have to mess with the glovebox door to get the liner out. Other than that it's the same. I would always recommend spending the extra couple of minutes and taking the entire pad off to remove the cluster ... makes it that much simpler, plus you run a lower risk of cracking the plastic part of the main dash assembly next to the windshield ... the one you can't replace that always cracks. I know that's how mine cracked ... trying to remove the cluster by only lifting up the pad on the driver's side instead of removing it completely.