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Flashing Check Engine Light - Engine Intermittently Misfires On Startup


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#1 Midimykeys

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 06:40 AM

I have a 95 Volvo 850 A/T non-turbo sedan with appx. 190k (notorious odometer failure). The car began leaking antifreeze from a hose going from the block to the firewall. I had to put coolant in every other day. Then it began to need it twice a day. I know, I should have had it fixed sooner, but it then overheated on the highway, engine knocking, and wouldn't start again. Called my mechanic, and he towed it to his shop, replaced the smaller hose, and ran the car until the temp. gauge was dead center. He said no problem. When I drove it home, the car was fine until I tried to restart after filling up with gas. Then it ran rough, like a cylinder was missing (misfiring) and the check engine light came on, then started blinking. It only blinked for a short time, then went to the solid light (it was blinking orange btw). Now intermittently, only after random start-ups, the engine will run like this for 10-15 seconds, or until I have reached about 25mph. Then it goes away. The check engine light will go away on the next startup, so I'm not sure if I can get a decent code reading. Antifreeze is still leaking somewhere else, I think it may be from my radiator, but the leak is not as bad as the hose leak. I have a thermostat that is the higher temp. rating, so I think I might change that for starters. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, as this is the first problem my car has ever had. Thanks.

Edited by Midimykeys, 29 July 2007 - 06:42 AM.




#2 Account_Deleted_T5M

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 08:58 AM

New spark plugs, and gap them to .028
Sorry to all the people who are still trying to get their money back.

#3 AlvinL

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 12:58 PM

Check for trouble codes out of A2 and post them here. Check out the links below.

#4 Midimykeys

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 05:13 PM

QUOTE(AlvinL @ Jul 29 2007, 07:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Check for trouble codes out of A2 and post them here. Check out the links below.


There were 6 codes:

P1310 - igniter (coil?) circuit malfunction
PO300 - The pcm has determined that multiple random misfires have occurred.
PO302 - The pcm has determined that a misfire has occurred in cylinder #2.
P0303 - The pcm has determined that a misfire has occurred in cylinder #3.
PO304 - The pcm has determined that a misfire has occurred in cylinder #4.
PO305 - The pcm has determined that a misfire has occurred in cylinder #5.

Sounds like I need a new coil. Now my 850 is stuck in the Autozone parking lot, probably because it can not start on 1 cylinder.
Besides the coil (which I just ordered), can you think of anything else it may be? Thanks again for any help given.


#5 info2x

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 05:31 PM

How old are your wires?
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#6 Midimykeys

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 08:13 PM

QUOTE(info2x @ Jul 29 2007, 12:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How old are your wires?


They have at leat 80k on them. I know I need to replace the wires/plugs, cap/rotor, but how would 4 cylinders misfire? It's not possible that all the wires went bad at the same time. Maybe the coil wire to the distributor cap is bad. I will replace the coil and the wires and repost. Any other possibilities out there would be great.


#7 Dmsee

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 08:35 PM

How old are your spark plugs? 80K too laugh.gif
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#8 Luther White

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 12:34 AM

Change your temp sensor.
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#9 MrWinkey

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 12:43 AM

QUOTE(Midimykeys @ Jul 29 2007, 02:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
When I drove it home, the car was fine until I tried to restart after filling up with gas. Then it ran rough, like a cylinder was missing (misfiring) and the check engine light came on, then started blinking. It only blinked for a short time, then went to the solid light (it was blinking orange btw).

Sounds like you have a bad tank of fuel...very common these days with the price of fuel everyone is cuttin it to increase profits IMO ...seen a lot of it . A flashing CEL is indicating a missfire in real time then if it continues it stores the code. Run as much of the gas out as you can then fill up with 93% or better . Or just have the tank drained.
You my friend sound like you have bad fuel! That's all wink.gif

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#10 Boost3237

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 07:11 PM

QUOTE(MrWinkey @ Jul 29 2007, 08:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sounds like you have a bad tank of fuel...very common these days with the price of fuel everyone is cuttin it to increase profits IMO ...seen a lot of it . A flashing CEL is indicating a missfire in real time then if it continues it stores the code. Run as much of the gas out as you can then fill up with 93% or better . Or just have the tank drained.
You my friend sound like you have bad fuel! That's all wink.gif


that has to be the most ive seen anyone stretch a fuel problem... it similar to a bad temp sensor, i'm having similar issues and at times worse and i cant keep getting bad fuel over n over n over again... besides there are other teltale signs that its my temp sensor....

i thought stock gap was .026.... .028 sounds large

Edited by Boost3237, 30 July 2007 - 07:12 PM.

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#11 MrWinkey

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 12:58 AM

QUOTE(Boost3237 @ Jul 30 2007, 03:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that has to be the most ive seen anyone stretch a fuel problem... it similar to a bad temp sensor, i'm having similar issues and at times worse and i cant keep getting bad fuel over n over n over again... besides there are other teltale signs that its my temp sensor....

i thought stock gap was .026.... .028 sounds large

Well perhaps I'm just blowing somke outta my arse but I have been fixing these things professionaly for ummm about 20yrs. Your case may be a bit diffrent but please re-read his query? wink.gif
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#12 Midimykeys

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 05:39 AM

I actually got my car started at autozone, drove it home, and parked it. I then picked up a radiator from modern imports for $100.00. It was from a volvo that had 80k and had been rear ended. It took 3 hours to replace it myself at home, and another 3 days to fully work the coolant back into the system, as volvo has only a reservoir available to add coolant. The car now works perfectly, and there are no problems once again. The check engine light turned itself off and has not come back on. As for the harsh starting, this is also a thing of the past. I do however, plan on replacing plugs, wires, cap, and the rotor. Thanks for all your help. I still can't believe the cause for the cylinder misfire codes was a direct result of the coolant. Maybe I am naive, I guess so. Thanks again people!

#13 Boost3237

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 01:36 PM

QUOTE(MrWinkey @ Jul 30 2007, 08:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well perhaps I'm just blowing somke outta my arse but I have been fixing these things professionaly for ummm about 20yrs. Your case may be a bit diffrent but please re-read his query? wink.gif



i never said you were wrong, it just sounded like a stretch tongue.gif
rightly said im no proffesional, just voiced my own experience thought limited it is...
^^ proof to how i could be baffled by all or most of his issues being caused by bad fuel
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#14 7 VII 7

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 02:25 PM

very simple... run out a new tank of gas.... do a tune up... stock gap for OEM is .028 and check any leaks along the lines

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#15 smokin' T5M

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 04:13 PM

i agree cap, rotor, wires, plugs.
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#16 Luther White

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 06:14 AM

CHANGE THE TEMP SENSOR
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#17 Midimykeys

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 07:46 AM

thanks anyway

Edited by Midimykeys, 02 August 2007 - 08:14 PM.


#18 Midimykeys

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 08:15 PM

QUOTE(Luther White @ Aug 2 2007, 01:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
CHANGE THE TEMP SENSOR


my mechanic said there were many temp sensors. You mean the thermostat?


#19 Midimykeys

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 04:49 PM

QUOTE(Boost3237 @ Jul 30 2007, 02:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that has to be the most ive seen anyone stretch a fuel problem... it similar to a bad temp sensor, i'm having similar issues and at times worse and i cant keep getting bad fuel over n over n over again... besides there are other teltale signs that its my temp sensor....

i thought stock gap was .026.... .028 sounds large


What is a temp sensor, and where is it on the car?

#20 jdlc

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Posted 06 August 2007 - 02:37 AM

Temp sensor is CTS - coolant temperature sensor, it is located below the thermostat which is at the engine-end of the top cooling/radiator hose (this is true for 98 x70, it is likely the same location for your 850).

When my CTS was failing, the symptom was engine running hot and poor mpg.

If you should replace it, together with the thermostat, be sure not to round the torx bolts by using quality tools. Some here suggested replacing those bolts with new T-Stat housing bolts - part number is 986228.

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