4 replies to this topic

[Tom]

I need to replace the muffler on my car. I have a floor jack and stands but no lift. Will the muffler come out without getting the car high in the air?

[caliwagon]

It can be done. Here's a process for removing your FWD stock exhaust at home. I've done this at least three or four times:

1) Put the rear of the car high on jack stands (as high as you can safely get it with your jack), then remove the jack itself.

2) Disconnect the two muffler hangers, on either side of the muffler. Just take the 12mm bolts out and then pull the rubber hangers off the muffler

3) Disconnect the cat-back system from where it joins the downpipe. It's a two-piece clamp. Usually the bolt is 12mm and the nut is 13mm. I can manage to get one socket above to keep it from turning when you try to loosen it, but it can be tricky. Having already removed the muffler hangers (but not yet the tip hangers--that's coming up next) will give you some wiggle room to get your wrenches in there.

4) Go to the rear bumper and, underneath, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the last bracket to the frame. Remove the bracket and rubber hangers from the tailpipe.

5) Going back and forth between the passenger side of the car and the rear bumper by the exhaust tip, slowly work the whole unit out towards the passenger side--eventually you want it to exit the car just below and aft of the passenger side front door. Several things to note about this process:

6) It may help to use you jack just aft of the passenger front wheel (at the subframe bracket), to lift that side of the car higher--this will give you additional wiggle room

7) Use care not to snag any wires or brake lines (especially on top of the delta links) with any part of the exhaust

8) If you're getting stuck between the spring and the fuel tank, and you don't have enough room to rotate the exhaust, there is one last option. You can bend one of the hanger mounts down (the little bars welded onto the tailpipe, onto which the rubber hangers slide). Bend the one closest to the tip, on the passenger side. Use something to pry it down about 40 degrees, allowing it to slide under the fuel tank, sort of. Keep in mind that it is MUCH HARDER to bend this tab back into place, should you need to reuse this exhaust. If you can get the car high enough, bending it is not necessary. Still, bending the mount is much better than having to cut your exhaust.

6) Work the exhaust free from under the car--installation is reverse of removal!

[Tom]

Wow - what a great write-up. Thanks!

[Mattphi]

Yea you should be able to do it.

[Tom]

It can be done. Here's a process for removing your FWD stock exhaust at home. I've done this at least three or four times:

1) Put the rear of the car high on jack stands (as high as you can safely get it with your jack), then remove the jack itself.

2) Disconnect the two muffler hangers, on either side of the muffler. Just take the 12mm bolts out and then pull the rubber hangers off the muffler

3) Disconnect the cat-back system from where it joins the downpipe. It's a two-piece clamp. Usually the bolt is 12mm and the nut is 13mm. I can manage to get one socket above to keep it from turning when you try to loosen it, but it can be tricky. Having already removed the muffler hangers (but not yet the tip hangers--that's coming up next) will give you some wiggle room to get your wrenches in there.

4) Go to the rear bumper and, underneath, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the last bracket to the frame. Remove the bracket and rubber hangers from the tailpipe.

5) Going back and forth between the passenger side of the car and the rear bumper by the exhaust tip, slowly work the whole unit out towards the passenger side--eventually you want it to exit the car just below and aft of the passenger side front door. Several things to note about this process:

6) It may help to use you jack just aft of the passenger front wheel (at the subframe bracket), to lift that side of the car higher--this will give you additional wiggle room

7) Use care not to snag any wires or brake lines (especially on top of the delta links) with any part of the exhaust

8) If you're getting stuck between the spring and the fuel tank, and you don't have enough room to rotate the exhaust, there is one last option. You can bend one of the hanger mounts down (the little bars welded onto the tailpipe, onto which the rubber hangers slide). Bend the one closest to the tip, on the passenger side. Use something to pry it down about 40 degrees, allowing it to slide under the fuel tank, sort of. Keep in mind that it is MUCH HARDER to bend this tab back into place, should you need to reuse this exhaust. If you can get the car high enough, bending it is not necessary. Still, bending the mount is much better than having to cut your exhaust.

6) Work the exhaust free from under the car--installation is reverse of removal!

Caliwagon, I have one question about this procedure - When you support the rear end on stands, where do you have the stands? Are they at the suspension mounts just in front of the rear wheels (partially obscuring the muffler's escape route?), are they along the subframe rails by the rear bumper (partially obscuring the tailpipe?), or are they someplace else?

Thanks ...