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Jesus

Off Topic: The Thread

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What do you think has changed?

The 1998 and older FWD/AWD section still exists: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/forum/6-fwdawd-1998-and-prior/ And that'd be a great place to read and post. I see in your profile you've owned a 97 850. Base trim? The 98 V70 will be mechanically similar to the 850's. In terms of maintenance/repair, the V70 GLT and T5 trims are pretty much the same. Just slightly different specs on the engine resulting in different performance.

 

Ahhhhh I see it now. For some reason (either error operator or a glitch) I could only see the 'questions' section.

I had a '97 850 but it was a manual and an NA, and I'm looking at a '98 GLT A/T - no experience with turbo anything so I'm out of my realm of experience and knowledge and would rather not get burned in buying a car.

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I quite skating because I was never going to make any money off of it.

fun < breaking a bone a risking a job, insurance, etc.

My brother in law broke his hand playing golf (because I rolled the golf cart over). I know a girl that annihilated her ankle when she tripped over a dog playing frisbee. I don't make any money drinking beer or eating food I like, but I still do that too.

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ruecatinat, Check the trans fluid for color and smell (buy a quart of fresh ATF if you need a baseline), and check for generally smooth shifting. But otherwise, the trans is usually reliable. Burning oil, look for leaks around the turbo, and check the condition of the charge hoses (2-3inch diameter) for rotting or if they're original, and same with the many ~3-5mm thick vacuum hoses. If they're original, they'll probably need to be replaced. I'd also do a couple wide open throttle passes after you're reasonably sure the car's in good shape. A gradual roll-on, and one to the floor, to check for hesitation, shuddering, or fluctuating power. Otherwise, the rest is generally similar to inspecting an 850 NA.

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My brother in law broke his hand playing golf (because I rolled the golf cart over). I know a girl that annihilated her ankle when she tripped over a dog playing frisbee. I don't make any money drinking beer or eating food I like, but I still do that too.

I rolled my foot going out my back door and popped a chunk of bone off my foot. Most who were familiar with my hobbies were consistently surprised when they say me on crutches and asked what happened. Get some pads and start skating again.

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ruecatinat, Check the trans fluid for color and smell (buy a quart of fresh ATF if you need a baseline), and check for generally smooth shifting. But otherwise, the trans is usually reliable. Burning oil, look for leaks around the turbo, and check the condition of the charge hoses (2-3inch diameter) for rotting or if they're original, and same with the many ~3-5mm thick vacuum hoses. If they're original, they'll probably need to be replaced. I'd also do a couple wide open throttle passes after you're reasonably sure the car's in good shape. A gradual roll-on, and one to the floor, to check for hesitation, shuddering, or fluctuating power. Otherwise, the rest is generally similar to inspecting an 850 NA.

Thanks!

The vacuum / charge hoses and oil leaks are what concern me - is there anything typical of the year / mileage? The car in question is around 200,000 kms (or 124, 274 miles).

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You might do better with your own thread, but the only other things coming to mind might be the PCV system needing replacing soon. Which is ~$120 last I checked for parts alone, and requires removing the intake manifold to change. If clogged, it will push oil out wherever it can. The oil cooler hoses coming out under the crank pulley, running to the radiator are expensive and can develop leaks at the rubber-to-metal fittings. The turbo has oil and coolant lines, and any of them could be leaky or rotting. Generally they'll drip down the back of the block or just behind it. If the SAS Air pump or related components are dying, it's a simple $1 fix with a resister and a soldering iron (to delete it), but it's a good way to negotiate the price down and will likely prevent you from passing an emissions test until fixed. I'd put that all under "be sure to check for codes".

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You might do better with your own thread, but the only other things coming to mind might be the PCV system needing replacing soon. Which is ~$120 last I checked for parts alone, and requires removing the intake manifold to change. If clogged, it will push oil out wherever it can. The oil cooler hoses coming out under the crank pulley, running to the radiator are expensive and can develop leaks at the rubber-to-metal fittings. The turbo has oil and coolant lines, and any of them could be leaky or rotting. Generally they'll drip down the back of the block or just behind it. If the SAS Air pump or related components are dying, it's a simple $1 fix with a resister and a soldering iron (to delete it), but it's a good way to negotiate the price down and will likely prevent you from passing an emissions test until fixed. I'd put that all under "be sure to check for codes".

I started my own thread in the 1998 section but your replies have been great - sorry to clog the thread about something On Topic:lol:

The car passed emissions within the past two months so an SAS pump should be clear. PCV should be interesting as from what I know with regular driving, good oil and decent gas the PCV should be fine, the PCV on our 2000 NA hit 325,000 kms ( 201, 946 miles ) on it's original system.

Thanks for clarifying on the lines / location - at the end of the day it is a $3000, 17 year old car and I expect to replace parts here and there but I'd rather not walk into a rescue case.

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Georgia is acting Florida lately. <_<
"Hearse stolen with deceased person inside"

http://www.wsbtv.com/news/news/local/police-hearse-stolen-deceased-person-inside/nmnL5/

If only the target was the corpse for resale of biological materials so the headline could have read:

"Body snatched in hearse heist"

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I took that picture :lol:

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