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9 hours ago, Fudge_Brownie said:

Maybe - didn't seem like it based on filling up after. Took 16.5g, I had added maybe 1 gallon, 2 at most, and the tank takes at least 20 if not 21. Talking with my brother, he suggested impending crank or cam sensor failure based on past experiences. Said it won't throw a code, but will randomly refuse to start.

From personal experience with a M4.4 car: It is most likely the camshaft sensor. The start directly prior to the sensor failing unexpectedly it took longer to start than was usual, but only about 1 sec. A few hours later no matter what the car would not start. A bit of a twist was that after installing a new sensor the car set a code for 'faulty camshaft sensor'...

I'd recommend buying a brand new part. Bosch makes the original part so no need to get the blue boxed version.

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1 hour ago, Blockpartie said:

From personal experience with a M4.4 car: It is most likely the camshaft sensor. The start directly prior to the sensor failing unexpectedly it took longer to start than was usual, but only about 1 sec. A few hours later no matter what the car would not start. A bit of a twist was that after installing a new sensor the car set a code for 'faulty camshaft sensor'...

I'd recommend buying a brand new part. Bosch makes the original part so no need to get the blue boxed version.

The last experience I had with a cam sensor was removing mine during a head swap, putting it back in, and finding the car wouldn't start. It threw a code. I hit the body of it with a wrench and it worked after that for several years :laugh:

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll probably order a spare and keep it in the trunk. I'm kinda curious how long I can get original parts to last. And because it's gonna be a trunk spare, it's probably going to be an ebay special.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yes, yes, yes, and yes :biggrin:

Have had it for a almost 3 years now. Nothing crazy done to it, still stock turbo and fuel system. Last time on the dyno it put down around 330hp and 370ft-lbs tq.

2015 Mustang Ecoboost 2.3L Premium, Performance Package, Recaro

Dyno tune by More Power Tuning

Levels Performance intercooler

UPR dual-valve catchcan

JLT intake

Turbosmart BOV

Corsa 3" turbo-back exhaust

BC Racing coilovers

Driveshaft Shop half-shafts

 

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so basically "stage 2"... nice! And that's not 330 whp, correct? The reason I ask... I did some testing in mexico against a friend with a stage 1 tune on his eco boost mustang versus my mk7 gti with just a piggy back tune and it wasn't even fair...

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Mustang seems really well sorted Zeus, love the color too!  At that power level, do you have any wheel hop/rear subframe movement issues like I've heard about with the 5.0s?

What did you end up doing to the C70? Sell it, part it out, etc? That was a cool looking car :cool:

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Thanks! Was afraid I might get tired of the color, but I'm still fond of it. One of the first things I did was preemptively upgrade the halfshafts just in case there was enough wheel hop to snap the stock shafts, but so far it hasn't been an issue. 

With the C70 there were a few locals who had voiced interest in buying it before it was ever for sale, so it was easy selling it. Was still plenty quick when it left me, almost everything worked, just had recently developed an oil leak. Heard it went downhill real quick after that, was sold again within a few months. Had a couple of the new owners contact me through facebook, helped them with info and referred them to this forum, but the last guy seemed to be giving up on it. Havent heard about it in a long time, so its probably up in Volvo heaven.

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I need some recommendations on the best way to clean engine block and cylinder head mating surfaces. In an ideal world I'd have both machined and be done with it, but that's not an option at the moment.

As far as I can tell the headgasket has not worn into the surface. Small rubbery bits remain that I will remove carefully with a razor blade. What I can't easily remove is a dark haze, e.g. some areas don't look shiny. How important is it for things to be factory fresh? Or just throw on the headgasket and hope for the best? The engine was fine before and the head only had to be removed to deal with damaged threads.

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I've always found a straight sharp wood chisel works best.  About 1/2" width or so.  You obviously have to be careful, but once you find the right angle of attack, it will just take off gasket material w/o disturbing the aluminum.  If you have to push hard, it's not sharp enough or your angle is too aggressive; should just glide along the surface.

Edited by gdog
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As long as you're not using a MLS head gasket, you don't need to machine the block and head. If you are using a MLS gasket, get everything machined or you'll be repeating the job.

Shiny isn't critical for a proper seal on the new gasket. Make sure there aren't any pieces of old gasket left behind and the new gasket will seal.  I'd use a rubber scraper blade to remove as much as you can, then use a chemical gasket remover. Lastly, I'd spray the surface with brake parts cleaner to remove any residue and leave the aluminum fairly clean. 

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I would have had both machined but it simply wasn't an option. After thinking about it with all the threads on here that show good outcomes despite not following Volvo's recommendations it will be fine. And yes, it requires an MLS gasket. Fingers crossed.

Was given some very old chemical with plenty of warning labels on the can. Took most of the haze away after careful swiping with a fine towel and left a smooth surface.

Volvo's instructions and new parts are garbage. Some of the replacement bolts I got are literally impossible to fit as they differ significantly from what was installed.

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