What Did You Do To Your Car Today.


scout01
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Kurt, I wanna see a pic of this I have a clunk when I turn at low speeds as well. It may be subframe bushings though

mine isn't a clunk... it's felt in the wheel as if it were a clunk. Imagine feeling a worn inner tie rod through the steering wheel. It felt similar to that I guess due to the play in the steering shaft or whatever it's called. VIDA doesn't show our steering system properly. It shoes 2 "joints" where as there is one outside next to the firewall, one inside next to the firewall & 1 at the back of the steering column. Sooo yea trying to figure out replacement or if the unit is splined / possibly stripped I have no idea until I take shit apart...

100% not the subframe bushings. I have literally checked & spec'd everything. The only thing that might resemble some subframe bushing would be your sway bar bushing because it wears out on the bottom where a slit is like the IPD ugrade ones and as the force goes down it pushes them apart & you start hitting the subframe itself

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GR-71729.jpg

#13 was the part that was floppy cocking around.

#14 & 15 was the bolt / nut that I tightened.

#16 & 17 are the ones I would also like to check.

If anyone is familiar with these please let me know as I am curious if they are splined. I have yet to actually pull / remove them but if the bolts @ #14 & 15 were loose I'm afraid rough road conditions & excessive force on a loose connection could have possibly stripped / worn down the splines causing it to slip or rotate. Again, it does feel much tighter steering wise now and honestly I LOVE it... perhaps this is just something that needs to be observed with higher mileage vehicles when people think that their steering is "loose". I hope I will have a chance to look over this a bit more in depth and see what happens.

Side note: If my car drives straight, is this possibly a way to straighten the steering wheel a few degrees that it is off? Places by me are retarded when it comes to alignments. The put the car on the rack, straighten the wheel then re-align the tie rods to re-center it. This method is fine unless you possibly have a scenereo like I stated above where the steering input shaft may have rotated on it's own & now there is excessive thread on one tie rod & minimal thread on the other depending what they needed to do regarding alignment. I have talked with Ben in the past about how nice it would be to disconnect the entire system, center the steering rack perfectly, then center the wheel & correct.

If I have a chance to get on my buddies 2 post lift again I will do what I do with my Jeep & count the rotations it takes to go from lock to lock & see if my wheel itself has actually moved or what. Daymnnn I've been dropping some knowledge lately, mom would be proud

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Not to me. Even if an 850 was low mileage and mint, I would most likely still choose an S70 that required some work over it. After driving the S70s, they make the 850s feel very dated.

I agree, the exterior and interior styling is dated but I'd rather stick with that than deal with ETMs, dealer-programmable remotes, junky window switches and delaminating panels. All comes down to preference and taste in the end I suppose :lol:

I'm doing a retrofit on this car, but I am using E55 shrouds and clear lenses on BOTH headlights lol

The shrouds in the RZ retrofit kits are very nice in terms of build quality but the design is off - if you do clear lenses and E55 shrouds please use D2S projectors and a proper kit, none of this DDM jazz

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VVME is good stuff. Never had an issue with their ballasts for 3+ years. My next retrofit I will probably be using Osram Phillips or Hella

It's not awful for china, but a friend who has DRLs (stupid subaru) smoked one in like a month... They can't handle the constant use.

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I'll tell everyone a secret about DDM, VVME, Morimoto, etc. They are all the same for the most part. There are quite a few manufacturers in China that make ballasts, but the designs and internals are generally identical. If the ballasts have a similar outside appearance, likely it's the same inside. I've been talking to HID manufacturers in China for many years now and there is little difference between their parts :)

Just get good quality used OEM parts, they'll last a long time.

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brake rotors/pads, struts/shocks, almost all front end bushings, cleaned IAC, new vacuum lines, new IC lines, ign. cap/rotor, wires, plugs on the 940, all in just over 4 hours. I love the ease of the RWD cars. Still need to do PCV, starter, flush the trans, and put a new seal on the rear diff. Been having some erratic speedo issues, so need to sort out the ABS/Speedo sensor while I'm back there. Thinking its most likely some shitty wires and connections.

And sadly stared at the 850. Just waiting for free time to dig in. So much more work to do anything than on the 940 really, but I still love her.

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Not too sure how... but yeah.

Time to buy a new axle :lol:

Added to the list of calipers tierods and brake lines for next weekend.

Axle is 1 year 1 month old almost exactly :( so im 1 month out of warranty from the shop that replaced it.

7zM99X6.jpg

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Not too sure how... but yeah.

Time to buy a new axle :lol:

Added to the list of calipers tierods and brake lines for next weekend.

Axle is 1 year 1 month old almost exactly :( so im 1 month out of warranty from the shop that replaced it.

Is the axle bad or is just the boot torn? If the axle is still good, get a new boot and call it a day.

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Is the axle bad or is just the boot torn? If the axle is still good, get a new boot and call it a day.

I mean... I am replacing the tie rods, brake calipers and brake lines next weekend, so I figured an extra 15 minutes on an axle isnt bad.

Probably just go with a raxle through work or a lifetime autozone.

Not too sure what all is involved with replacing a boot either so might just be easier for me to just pop old one out pop new one in.

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