16 replies to this topic

[Modus]

This find is from a 98 S70 with the rectangle carbon canister by the fuel filter.

Okay so for the past few years I have been trying this and trying that. Going through many posts here. Still coming up short. CEL light blaring me in the face. A constant reminder of "hello I'm still here". I got really used to the light being on it didn't bother me anymore. Now with gas prices rising, and wondering why my gas mileage is poor I got on the Mr. Fix It band wagon again.

I didn't want to bring my car to the dealer and have it smoke tested. I have too many bells and whistles on and in my car to give it to them and then have them tell me I can't have this or that or even worse charge me for something dumb. Plus the $105 service hourly rate is not in my budget.

Everyone knows so far that checking the gas cap is the easiest thing. That never worked for me and seems for others too.

The next thing was the purge valve. That's fine but I replaced it any how. I had gas smells coming from the rear of the car by the filler neck. So I replaced the filler gasket, rollover valve, and tank filler neck collet. Still no go.

Previous posts stated on the subject but none fit me that worked

check valves
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?s...p;#entry1244269

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=95962

J hoses
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=77741

Check valves and purge questions
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=96866


As the cars age everything can be replaced after awhile, but for some reason I was just missing something with this EVAP problem. it had to be something stupid. Just had to find it with out the proper tools.

My tank still wasn't holding pressure and a gas smell from on top of the tank. the 98 has different routing than the 850 so it wasn't the standard cracked over flow line.

It turned out to be deteriorating gaskets. One on the fuel pump and the sending unit.

So I dropped the tank again and replaced both gaskets, I only have pics of the sender.

Disconnected in trunk wires harnesses.


Dropped tank

Replaced gasket. The sending unit access hole in the trunk was a skewed so it made it impossible to work through it.


old vs new gasket.


The next fix came directly from the charcoal canister itself. Instead of inspecting the one J hose I left on the car I optioned to remove the charcoal canister box from the car. It was 3 bolts. It made it much easier to access the hoses this way. I'm glad I did because the crack was on the top side where you can't see from the bottom. I fixed my hoses using milspec shrink tubing that hardens like plastic, rather than cutting them.

What is not noted are the plastic connectors on the canister box itself. Which I'd like to add to this post.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=77741
These connectors have O-Rings in them!!! Which under age dry out, crack and not seal.
The large connector had a yellow O-ring in it that looked great compared to the other.

As the cream of the crop I found this that might fix everyones small leaks. Small plastic elbow connector located on the rear of the box, have to push the button to get it off the barb.


Now look inside of the connector...I found this.


I didn't have an O-Ring and I mashed the button on the connector anyhow. I optioned to cut the whole thing off and put an elbow on it with 2 worm gear hose clamps. I think the size is 3/8's OD.

Note the jacking points if interested.



Here is the final finish.


Again recap of another post about check valves.
here are the part numbers with some links. There sold as booster valves and not for Evap for our years.



Manufacturer ATE, Part Number 1228272
OEM Number 1228272, CAC4188

Do a search with these numbers this is what I come up with.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?code=7209

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/prod.../category_id/57


Sorry for a long post. I thought I would be helpful in the diagnosing of other possible missed bad O-Rings.

Cheers

[flyfishing3]

This find is from a 98 S70 with the rectangle carbon canister by the fuel filter.

Okay so for the past few years I have been trying this and trying that. Going through many posts here. Still coming up short. CEL light blaring me in the face. A constant reminder of "hello I'm still here". I got really used to the light being on it didn't bother me anymore. Now with gas prices rising, and wondering why my gas mileage is poor I got on the Mr. Fix It band wagon again.

I didn't want to bring my car to the dealer and have it smoke tested. I have too many bells and whistles on and in my car to give it to them and then have them tell me I can't have this or that or even worse charge me for something dumb. Plus the $105 service hourly rate is not in my budget.

Everyone knows so far that checking the gas cap is the easiest thing. That never worked for me and seems for others too.

The next thing was the purge valve. That's fine but I replaced it any how. I had gas smells coming from the rear of the car by the filler neck. So I replaced the filler gasket, rollover valve, and tank filler neck collet. Still no go.

Previous posts stated on the subject but none fit me that worked

check valves
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?s...p;#entry1244269

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=95962

J hoses
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=77741

Check valves and purge questions
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=96866


As the cars age everything can be replaced after awhile, but for some reason I was just missing something with this EVAP problem. it had to be something stupid. Just had to find it with out the proper tools.

My tank still wasn't holding pressure and a gas smell from on top of the tank. the 98 has different routing than the 850 so it wasn't the standard cracked over flow line.

It turned out to be deteriorating gaskets. One on the fuel pump and the sending unit.

So I dropped the tank again and replaced both gaskets, I only have pics of the sender.

Disconnected in trunk wires harnesses.


Dropped tank

Replaced gasket. The sending unit access hole in the trunk was a skewed so it made it impossible to work through it.


old vs new gasket.


The next fix came directly from the charcoal canister itself. Instead of inspecting the one J hose I left on the car I optioned to remove the charcoal canister box from the car. It was 3 bolts. It made it much easier to access the hoses this way. I'm glad I did because the crack was on the top side where you can't see from the bottom. I fixed my hoses using milspec shrink tubing that hardens like plastic, rather than cutting them.

What is not noted are the plastic connectors on the canister box itself. Which I'd like to add to this post.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=77741
These connectors have O-Rings in them!!! Which under age dry out, crack and not seal.
The large connector had a yellow O-ring in it that looked great compared to the other.

As the cream of the crop I found this that might fix everyones small leaks. Small plastic elbow connector located on the rear of the box, have to push the button to get it off the barb.


Now look inside of the connector...I found this.


I didn't have an O-Ring and I mashed the button on the connector anyhow. I optioned to cut the whole thing off and put an elbow on it with 2 worm gear hose clamps. I think the size is 3/8's OD.

Note the jacking points if interested.



Here is the final finish.


Again recap of another post about check valves.
here are the part numbers with some links. There sold as booster valves and not for Evap for our years.



Manufacturer ATE, Part Number 1228272
OEM Number 1228272, CAC4188

Do a search with these numbers this is what I come up with.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?code=7209

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/prod.../category_id/57


Sorry for a long post. I thought I would be helpful in the diagnosing of other possible missed bad O-Rings.

Cheers

nice Job,

mike

[jazzyjeff]

Thanks alot man! This gives me a few more things to check in hopes of getting rid of this darn large EVAP leak code. Great write up

[Fudge_Brownie]

nice Job,

mike

Oh common now, I'd expect better than quoting a post full of pictures from a moderator
Now sticky this

[JC 855 GLT-R]

i just took care of my 0455 code. it was the rubber hose that was on top of the tank. it was cracked. do you smell gas after filling the tank?

[jazzyjeff]

Instead of cutting the hose and re-using it, I would like to just replace them. Can anyone tell me what sizes I would need? I searched FCP and eEuroparts but can up empty. Thanks

[jazzyjeff]

Instead of cutting the hose and re-using it, I would like to just replace them. Can anyone tell me what sizes I would need? I searched FCP and eEuroparts but can up empty. Thanks

edit: I just reread the post and saw that you said the one hose should be 3/8" OD. Does the same go for the others?

[Modus]

Thanks everyone, Like I said before I hope this helps out those of us that might have the same problem that can be over looked.

Here is the Volvo Vida's information. However I threw out the other list of partnumbers for this diagram for part numbers. However if these are dealer parts your gonna pay like $30 a hose. I'm unsure of the sizes, they are prebent hoses and getting the angles right using a regular radiator hose won't work well.

Here is the print depicting the J hoses and the connector line that I cut. If someone has the access to Vida the print number is 2376354a




The stated 3/8 OD hose, I'm referring to the black plastic line that runs from the canister to the purge valve. The hose size of the connector that I cut off of.

Here is a picture of the connector that I cut off. You'll see how this connector is actually fitted on the hose by shrinking the hose around it. So if your referring to this connector, I don't think you can just replace it. Just the O-Ring inside of it.

Personally I think this is a poor connection for a seal. The reason why I cut it off and replaced it with a rubber elbow



Again on Purge Valves. I used a Help break booster check valve cause it was readily available and cheaper than ordering the ATE and paying for shipping and such. It looks like this and it is available in any auto parts store.

[cheapwagon]

Great write-up!!!! This is definately stickey worthy. I can't wait to maybe finally fix my p0455.

[JC 855 GLT-R]

would bad check valves going to the break booster result in spongy breaks?

[Modus]

would bad check valves going to the break booster result in spongy breaks?

More like no power breaks. Which is why it feels hard after you shut off your engine and your foot is still depressing it.


What does that have to do with evap?

[64pvolvo1800]

Thanks everyone, Like I said before I hope this helps out those of us that might have the same problem that can be over looked.

Here is the Volvo Vida's information. However I threw out the other list of partnumbers for this diagram for part numbers. However if these are dealer parts your gonna pay like $30 a hose. I'm unsure of the sizes, they are prebent hoses and getting the angles right using a regular radiator hose won't work well.

Here is the print depicting the J hoses and the connector line that I cut. If someone has the access to Vida the print number is 2376354a




The stated 3/8 OD hose, I'm referring to the black plastic line that runs from the canister to the purge valve. The hose size of the connector that I cut off of.

Here is a picture of the connector that I cut off. You'll see how this connector is actually fitted on the hose by shrinking the hose around it. So if your referring to this connector, I don't think you can just replace it. Just the O-Ring inside of it.

Personally I think this is a poor connection for a seal. The reason why I cut it off and replaced it with a rubber elbow



Again on Purge Valves. I used a Help break booster check valve cause it was readily available and cheaper than ordering the ATE and paying for shipping and such. It looks like this and it is available in any auto parts store.

Any chance you can give me the part number for the item number 11 in the Vadis picture? That hose is cracked on my T5.

[Modus]

I don't have the parts list... can someone else post one?

[jazzyjeff]

OK, I went out and looked at this yesterday and for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get that hose off of the canister. It does not appear to have a button to depress to unhook it from the canister. I tried pulling/prying on it gently but didnt want to break it. How did you get this off? Thanks

[MadeInJapan]

Awesome write-up with pictures and parts dude!
I hope you don't mind that I referenced this over on a thread at Matthews. A guy there is evidently having close to the same issues and is going to have to get into the cannister area for further problem solving.
Regards,
MIJ

[Modus]

The O-ring connector is a pain in the arse to get off.

You have to depress the button just so to get the plastic spring mechanism passed the barb fitting on the nipple.

here's a good pic of what you have to deal with.



This is what's holding the barb on the nipple inside the connector. Seems you just simply push.



Pushing in the button with pliers worked the best while pulling the connector off.

In my opinion I think this is a crappy way to hold any such vacuum. So I optioned to cut the whole connector off.

If it's loose, I'd bet the O-ring is toast.

[jazzyjeff]

Yeah, it's definitly loose. Thanks alot for the pics! I'll see if I can salvage the connector but if it looks bad, I'll just get another elbow like you did. Thanks again man.