I removed a front subframe bushing and put a new one from FCP in, pressing it in using the subframe bolt and the disc that sits on top of it (with some nuts to prevent squishing the rubber feet). I got it almost all the way in, which ~1/4inch remaining. I decided to see if driving around a little might pop it in. No deal. I tightened it a little further once or twice over the course of a week of driving too. Still nothing. So this weekend I cranked the bolt down figuring the bushing should eventually pop in, or crush before breaking the bolt.
I was wrong! I snapped a subframe bolt before this thing would finish pressing in. So WTF? For those who have done this before, any thoughts? I saw the picture of the special tool Volvo makes, but I don't see how that isn't equally as likely to snap. It seems more meaningful when removing, and pressing the new one in is just a bonus feature.
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Pressing Subframe Bushing In
07 May 2012 - 02:25 PM
Hutchinson Transmission Mount / Linkage Info
02 May 2012 - 03:47 PM
So some of you already know I swapped a transmission in to my car after my transmission seal let go. Same "problem" as an RMS, different seal, same amount of fucked. Snagged a junkyard trans with 84k on it.
While under there, I bought a new Hutchinson lower transmission mount, the one with two rubber sections and a link between them. My old one was original OEM, and I suspected the rubber was getting old. The one I received looked slightly different, most noticably in the rubber. OEM one had very beefy rubber cores while the Hutchinson one had smaller thinner "arms" of rubber, seemed less substantial, and was even easier to wiggle around by hand than my original. Decided it to give it a shot anyway. My car now shifts buttery smooth, which may or may not be attributable to the "new" transmission. But I wanted to share because I know engine vibrations drive some people nuts. And perhaps this less substantial mount will absorb more vibration. I suspect it will not last as long, but that's simply a suspicion. And for those who despise vibration, this may be considered a small price to pay. I have original main motor mounts (98/168k), a new passanger side mount (forget brand, not scantech), older FCP poly upper bushing, and a URO? firewall mount. But I have very little engine vibration right now, and less than I did before I took everything apart.
Anyone have any experiences to share?
For point of reference, it looks like this
While under there, I bought a new Hutchinson lower transmission mount, the one with two rubber sections and a link between them. My old one was original OEM, and I suspected the rubber was getting old. The one I received looked slightly different, most noticably in the rubber. OEM one had very beefy rubber cores while the Hutchinson one had smaller thinner "arms" of rubber, seemed less substantial, and was even easier to wiggle around by hand than my original. Decided it to give it a shot anyway. My car now shifts buttery smooth, which may or may not be attributable to the "new" transmission. But I wanted to share because I know engine vibrations drive some people nuts. And perhaps this less substantial mount will absorb more vibration. I suspect it will not last as long, but that's simply a suspicion. And for those who despise vibration, this may be considered a small price to pay. I have original main motor mounts (98/168k), a new passanger side mount (forget brand, not scantech), older FCP poly upper bushing, and a URO? firewall mount. But I have very little engine vibration right now, and less than I did before I took everything apart.
Anyone have any experiences to share?
For point of reference, it looks like this
Lower Transmission Bolts Stiff Or Won't Line Up
24 April 2012 - 10:59 PM
So I've got my "new to me" auto trans on the block. I put the TC in FIRST, and made sure to get the notched part right so it 'drops down', spun freely, and slid the transmission on to the guide pin. Got most of the bolts in without trouble, except for the lowest two, which go through the oil pan, and the one above that on the rear side. The second up from the bottom on the rear is ALMOST all the way in, but its getting damn stiff. The lowest rear bolt barely lined up, and I just got it to bite to pull in. Was hoping something wasn't line up and this would pull it straight. But its still like a half inch out. And the front lowest won't even go in and I can see inside the hole that it is offset.
WTF? The top went on just fine, but the lowest ones won't. I did have the oil pan off, so I'll be checking the torque on all the bolts, but I'm pretty sure its seated correctly, and I tightened them center-out alternating sides.
I'm to the point where I think I need to put this thing in the car, start it up and see if it "shakes out" during a quick run around the block and maybe everything will fall in to place? I just don't want to find out the hard way this will crack the bell on the transmission or break a bolt. Any thoughts?
WTF? The top went on just fine, but the lowest ones won't. I did have the oil pan off, so I'll be checking the torque on all the bolts, but I'm pretty sure its seated correctly, and I tightened them center-out alternating sides.
I'm to the point where I think I need to put this thing in the car, start it up and see if it "shakes out" during a quick run around the block and maybe everything will fall in to place? I just don't want to find out the hard way this will crack the bell on the transmission or break a bolt. Any thoughts?
Transmission Fluid Pouring Out The Tc-Area
08 April 2012 - 02:53 AM
Backstory: A week ago the arrow starts flashing, and a CEL for P0740 "torque converter clutch circuit malfunction". Fluid was browned, but not super dark against the yellow dipstick and still had hints of red. Shifting was fine. Looked like the code was correct, as I noticed lock-up wasn't occurring on the highway. I flushed with Mobil1 ATF, putting 13qts through. Shifted a little harder on a cold 1-2 shift after that, but everything else was noticeably smoother. The light continued, but I figure I'd at least run through a full tank of gas before putting in a new TC solenoid. Up until now, no signs of trans fluid leaks in any way, shape, or form. When doing the flush, I measured what came out and put in that same amount.
220 miles after the flush, I'm on my way down to Newport today and we smell ATF coming through the vents at stop lights. Turns out the thing is pissing fluid. I get it towed home, clean it down, start the car and get under there. Nothing leaking immediately, but I figure its so low on fluid it has nothing left to leak. So I add ~1.5qts (whatever I had left in the garage). Look under, and bright red ATF is just streaming out from under at the same rate as if you turn a sink on juuuuust enough to prevent it from being a 'drip drip drip'. Coming from the same area as a RMS leak comes from, but it looked to be coming from either side of the casing higher up as well. My guess is the 'pooling' is being flung up by the TC?
I'm at a loss on this one. Is the new fluid that much 'lighter' that it is making its way through the seal? Did the seal blow out some how? Either way, seems like the transmission has to come out to resolve unless anyone has any ideas? Looks like I'm screwed?
220 miles after the flush, I'm on my way down to Newport today and we smell ATF coming through the vents at stop lights. Turns out the thing is pissing fluid. I get it towed home, clean it down, start the car and get under there. Nothing leaking immediately, but I figure its so low on fluid it has nothing left to leak. So I add ~1.5qts (whatever I had left in the garage). Look under, and bright red ATF is just streaming out from under at the same rate as if you turn a sink on juuuuust enough to prevent it from being a 'drip drip drip'. Coming from the same area as a RMS leak comes from, but it looked to be coming from either side of the casing higher up as well. My guess is the 'pooling' is being flung up by the TC?
I'm at a loss on this one. Is the new fluid that much 'lighter' that it is making its way through the seal? Did the seal blow out some how? Either way, seems like the transmission has to come out to resolve unless anyone has any ideas? Looks like I'm screwed?
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