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I don't always sleep on your warm laundry but when I do... who am I kidding I always sleep on warm laundry
Topics I've Started
Ball So Hard Mother Clutchers Wanna Fry Me?
17 April 2012 - 02:23 AM
I sheered the 8 bolts that made the clutch plate a clutch plate... caught the flywheel fine... but turns out it wasn't to fond of the plate it was riveted to...
I don't always sleep on your warm laundry but when I do... who am I kidding I always sleep on warm laundry
I don't always sleep on your warm laundry but when I do... who am I kidding I always sleep on warm laundry
Clutch / Slave Cylinder / Hiss / Sh*t Just Keeps Going Wrong
02 April 2012 - 05:36 AM
Man its been a while since I've needed help...
Okay so for starters I was headed to a friends to check out his deck and give him some structural pointers regarding enclosing it and making it a green house... Driving there tooling around I took the back road and came to a stop sign facing downhill fair angled... braking & clutch. Proceed through intersection after stopping and it took off normal then put it into 2nd and the pedal came 1/2 way back. Awkwardness occoured as I pulled the pedal back up with my foot & shifted into 3rd and it did it again. Put the shifter into the N position and pumped the clutch a few times and no problems but I got a clutchy smell. This 1/2 clutch occoured 50% of the time after that and I have yet to resolve the issue. I assume my throwout bearing took a dump because the clubbing baby seals noise happens when I start off now but it still takes off. I assumed the angle of the dangle from the stop sign perhaps I got a bit of air in my slave cylinder line so I figured I would bleed it... and found this...
That would be the handy work of the people who fucked me over for 2K for a clutch job because he said he could... we won't get into those details but regardless they obviously smacked & cracked the bottom of the slave cylinder housing hole on my frame when they dropped my transmission (look as "what pissed you off today" thread for reference between right & this fucked up hack job" so not only was the slave cylinder piston at an awkward angle aiming into the shift fork, it has about a 1/16" gap between the passenger side of the hole where if SHOULD be flush due to the lack of pressure points, shape, and size. I am sure over time this has caused excessive wear on additional parts which is why I have had the occasional baby seal clubbing sound as well as the feeling of burning clutch / not fully disengaged clutch. Even the ring lock clip was not in properly and their lovely hack job attempt to resolve the break they caused wallowed out the hole itself. I can easily wiggle the slave cylinder around a big and because of their welding, grinding, etc etc the lock clip does not bring the slave cylinder in far enough (1/16" gap as I mentioned plus awkward angle. Well I attempted to bleed the slave and it helped a tad but not much in terms of slipping & pedal feel. The hack repair allowed the slave cylinder to move away slightly from the release fork before moving it. I assume this means that it is not fully engaging or disengaging and potentially hasn't the entire time...? It is only 4 years old and yes I drive like a prick but lets be real the stock one (R clutch from the factory) got a solid 75K on it from the original owner no clue on driving habits, a solid 25K from my mother with moderate driving habits, and another 25K out of it with me being well... me.
The clutch kit installed is shown here
Not an R clutch as what came originally in my car shown here...
(it was only my throwout bearing being a twat)
Back on topic...
In terms of orientation of both the slave cylinder and the lock pin could someone please verify... Is the bleeder valve to point STRAIGHT UP? and also is the OPEN end up the retainer pin to be at the under most side of the grove within the slave cylinder. I will do my best tomorrow when I go in for round 3 on checking this and maybe someone can give me some tips on how to secure & shim it up properly so that I can use this car as I now need to rely on it since Poop Jeep the IV'th has been skull fucked by a box van.
I attempted to bleed the clutch in 3 different manners and still have yet to get a nice stiff pedal from top to bottom. I did the 2 person method, mighty vac method, and the hose in a bottle of fluid method and regardless the pedal feels the same in terms of pressure before & after although I will mention I have not had the 1/2 return event happen again. Someone have a FOOLPROOF way to get any and all air out of the slave cylinder as well as check for any potential air laks throughout the rest of the hose system. I have the older style labeled "11d" in VADIS which is now blocked out in VIDA so mine is a 2 piece unit. I would prefer the 1 piece unit (P/N: 9181437) as it has less potential to have something fuck up as my luck so far in 2012.
There is some up/down/all around movement on the shift fork so I am assuming again as I said my throwout bearing is on its way out / or already shit and also that the plastic retaining clip was never installed. The angle of the slave cylinder piston is straight now versus at an angle as stated before because did my best to reinstall it straight although the port is wallowed to shit, but there is still a bit of slop right at the top of the pedal.
Also, something I noticed today was that while idling with the clutch in and the car in the neutral position (shifter) there is no noise, when I put the car into ANY gear I get a hissing noise, it comes from the passenger side though which I thought awkward although it is the power wheel. Riddle me that...
I am aware that I would need to get in the transmission to see what is truly going on but that isn't an option as of now seeing as I just had my hip re-re-re-rebuilt plus my Jeep was T-boned Friday buy some dumb fuck running a light.
Any information regarding anything listed above would be GREATLY appreciated because I have to go back to work Wednesday and the proud owner of 2 vehicles really only has about 3/4 of a vehicle right now...
I will also & have been planning although my planning has gotten fucked up repeaditly lately... to swap out my manual transmission oil... My local dealer does not have it in stock and the next closest place is 2+ hours... I'm not working and broke so I went with the Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic (I feel M1 is hype) but that was the best I could get my hands on. I am aware OEM Oil (1161745) is a 75w80 API GL-4 and I am hoping that using Mobil 1 75w90 won't be an issue and some day when something actually goes right and I don't work my ass off just to get fucked over and have money I will be redoing my transmission to have a "R Clutch" as it originally did as well as use all OEM parts but for now I have to get to work... so anyone give me some inside on the 75w90 because again you have seen the handy work of the fuckers who fixed (basically wrecked) my transmission and lord knows what fluid is actually in there if any at all or even at the right level. On a side note to this... I am aware there are (2) 24mm bolts: Drain & Fill and that most people fill using the reverse light switch port which I intent but I have yet to find an image of the two bolts and what type of washer they use if any similar to the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug.
Only tip was that potentially "The disc is hanging onto the input spline" <--- possibility? remedy?
Summary....
1) WTF happened to my clutch when it only came half way back & is there any way to fix it EXTERNALLY as I have no lift(s) or can physically do it.
2) Absolute perfect orientation of slave cylinder bleed valve as well as lock ring thing
2.1) Any way to shim / secure the slave cylinder so that is FULLY IN and FLUSH with the rear of the mounting port? (do they make metal shims) to resolve the welded hack job wallowed out barrel...
3) Clutch is "light" but stiffens up after a few pumps... I can see the line move (11b) no P/N available in VIDA as I am running the 2 part unit.
4) Hissing noise while clutch depressed & idling in ANY gear but goes away when put into the "N" central position.
5) Do seals at the break fluid reservoir tend to leak? any common leak points to check? NO DROPS ANYWHERE I CAN SEE but would love to double check & secure / resolve
6) Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic Gear oil in M56? Pros / Cons
7) Image or diagram showing drain / fill bolts & specifications regarding washers (if needed)
Any and all information is appreciated as I have 2 days to get my car in working order so I can return to work... I will have the clutch replaced, transmission housing too (because of the slave hack job), and all other internals but that might be a bit as I just dropped my tax return on fixing PJ IV which is currently a paper weight.
Part donations accepted haha
Okay so for starters I was headed to a friends to check out his deck and give him some structural pointers regarding enclosing it and making it a green house... Driving there tooling around I took the back road and came to a stop sign facing downhill fair angled... braking & clutch. Proceed through intersection after stopping and it took off normal then put it into 2nd and the pedal came 1/2 way back. Awkwardness occoured as I pulled the pedal back up with my foot & shifted into 3rd and it did it again. Put the shifter into the N position and pumped the clutch a few times and no problems but I got a clutchy smell. This 1/2 clutch occoured 50% of the time after that and I have yet to resolve the issue. I assume my throwout bearing took a dump because the clubbing baby seals noise happens when I start off now but it still takes off. I assumed the angle of the dangle from the stop sign perhaps I got a bit of air in my slave cylinder line so I figured I would bleed it... and found this...
That would be the handy work of the people who fucked me over for 2K for a clutch job because he said he could... we won't get into those details but regardless they obviously smacked & cracked the bottom of the slave cylinder housing hole on my frame when they dropped my transmission (look as "what pissed you off today" thread for reference between right & this fucked up hack job" so not only was the slave cylinder piston at an awkward angle aiming into the shift fork, it has about a 1/16" gap between the passenger side of the hole where if SHOULD be flush due to the lack of pressure points, shape, and size. I am sure over time this has caused excessive wear on additional parts which is why I have had the occasional baby seal clubbing sound as well as the feeling of burning clutch / not fully disengaged clutch. Even the ring lock clip was not in properly and their lovely hack job attempt to resolve the break they caused wallowed out the hole itself. I can easily wiggle the slave cylinder around a big and because of their welding, grinding, etc etc the lock clip does not bring the slave cylinder in far enough (1/16" gap as I mentioned plus awkward angle. Well I attempted to bleed the slave and it helped a tad but not much in terms of slipping & pedal feel. The hack repair allowed the slave cylinder to move away slightly from the release fork before moving it. I assume this means that it is not fully engaging or disengaging and potentially hasn't the entire time...? It is only 4 years old and yes I drive like a prick but lets be real the stock one (R clutch from the factory) got a solid 75K on it from the original owner no clue on driving habits, a solid 25K from my mother with moderate driving habits, and another 25K out of it with me being well... me.
The clutch kit installed is shown here
Not an R clutch as what came originally in my car shown here...
(it was only my throwout bearing being a twat)Back on topic...
In terms of orientation of both the slave cylinder and the lock pin could someone please verify... Is the bleeder valve to point STRAIGHT UP? and also is the OPEN end up the retainer pin to be at the under most side of the grove within the slave cylinder. I will do my best tomorrow when I go in for round 3 on checking this and maybe someone can give me some tips on how to secure & shim it up properly so that I can use this car as I now need to rely on it since Poop Jeep the IV'th has been skull fucked by a box van.
I attempted to bleed the clutch in 3 different manners and still have yet to get a nice stiff pedal from top to bottom. I did the 2 person method, mighty vac method, and the hose in a bottle of fluid method and regardless the pedal feels the same in terms of pressure before & after although I will mention I have not had the 1/2 return event happen again. Someone have a FOOLPROOF way to get any and all air out of the slave cylinder as well as check for any potential air laks throughout the rest of the hose system. I have the older style labeled "11d" in VADIS which is now blocked out in VIDA so mine is a 2 piece unit. I would prefer the 1 piece unit (P/N: 9181437) as it has less potential to have something fuck up as my luck so far in 2012.
There is some up/down/all around movement on the shift fork so I am assuming again as I said my throwout bearing is on its way out / or already shit and also that the plastic retaining clip was never installed. The angle of the slave cylinder piston is straight now versus at an angle as stated before because did my best to reinstall it straight although the port is wallowed to shit, but there is still a bit of slop right at the top of the pedal.
Also, something I noticed today was that while idling with the clutch in and the car in the neutral position (shifter) there is no noise, when I put the car into ANY gear I get a hissing noise, it comes from the passenger side though which I thought awkward although it is the power wheel. Riddle me that...
I am aware that I would need to get in the transmission to see what is truly going on but that isn't an option as of now seeing as I just had my hip re-re-re-rebuilt plus my Jeep was T-boned Friday buy some dumb fuck running a light.
Any information regarding anything listed above would be GREATLY appreciated because I have to go back to work Wednesday and the proud owner of 2 vehicles really only has about 3/4 of a vehicle right now...
I will also & have been planning although my planning has gotten fucked up repeaditly lately... to swap out my manual transmission oil... My local dealer does not have it in stock and the next closest place is 2+ hours... I'm not working and broke so I went with the Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic (I feel M1 is hype) but that was the best I could get my hands on. I am aware OEM Oil (1161745) is a 75w80 API GL-4 and I am hoping that using Mobil 1 75w90 won't be an issue and some day when something actually goes right and I don't work my ass off just to get fucked over and have money I will be redoing my transmission to have a "R Clutch" as it originally did as well as use all OEM parts but for now I have to get to work... so anyone give me some inside on the 75w90 because again you have seen the handy work of the fuckers who fixed (basically wrecked) my transmission and lord knows what fluid is actually in there if any at all or even at the right level. On a side note to this... I am aware there are (2) 24mm bolts: Drain & Fill and that most people fill using the reverse light switch port which I intent but I have yet to find an image of the two bolts and what type of washer they use if any similar to the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug.
Only tip was that potentially "The disc is hanging onto the input spline" <--- possibility? remedy?
Summary....
1) WTF happened to my clutch when it only came half way back & is there any way to fix it EXTERNALLY as I have no lift(s) or can physically do it.
2) Absolute perfect orientation of slave cylinder bleed valve as well as lock ring thing
2.1) Any way to shim / secure the slave cylinder so that is FULLY IN and FLUSH with the rear of the mounting port? (do they make metal shims) to resolve the welded hack job wallowed out barrel...
3) Clutch is "light" but stiffens up after a few pumps... I can see the line move (11b) no P/N available in VIDA as I am running the 2 part unit.
4) Hissing noise while clutch depressed & idling in ANY gear but goes away when put into the "N" central position.
5) Do seals at the break fluid reservoir tend to leak? any common leak points to check? NO DROPS ANYWHERE I CAN SEE but would love to double check & secure / resolve
6) Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic Gear oil in M56? Pros / Cons
7) Image or diagram showing drain / fill bolts & specifications regarding washers (if needed)
Any and all information is appreciated as I have 2 days to get my car in working order so I can return to work... I will have the clutch replaced, transmission housing too (because of the slave hack job), and all other internals but that might be a bit as I just dropped my tax return on fixing PJ IV which is currently a paper weight.
Part donations accepted haha
