Mackiii,
EXACT same problem happened to me in Nov 2010 (at 12 years 110K miles)
Ordered new ignition tumbler from dealer, so far so good.
You did the right thing by getting a new tumbler.
DIY is here:
http://volvospeed.co...ck-replacement/
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In Topic: 98 S70 Ignition Key Issues....making "plink" Noise When Starting
04 May 2012 - 11:46 AM
In Topic: 98 Volvo V70 Doesn't Start, Then Does, Then Doesn't
24 April 2012 - 04:58 PM
When this happens (intermittent stalling), unplug the MAF, if this solves the problem, then the MAF is bad.
If so, use only Bosch or Volvo brand MAF.
No aftermarket when it comes to MAF!
If so, use only Bosch or Volvo brand MAF.
No aftermarket when it comes to MAF!
In Topic: E-brake Problem
23 April 2012 - 03:44 PM
1. New brake shoes + old rotor = no good.
2. New brake shoes + resurfaced rotor = better
(Yes, shops can resurface the inside of the drum where the shoes make contact).
3. New brake shoes + new rotor = best.
This is the route I chose, so far so good.
My parking brake is very solid.
You need to do the "brake-pad-bedding" thingy.
I wrote a Parking Brake DIY for my 1998 BMW 528i, scroll down Step #16 to see the "Break-In" procedure:
http://www.bimmerfes...ad.php?t=426640
2. New brake shoes + resurfaced rotor = better
(Yes, shops can resurface the inside of the drum where the shoes make contact).
3. New brake shoes + new rotor = best.
This is the route I chose, so far so good.
My parking brake is very solid.
rusheR, on 23 April 2012 - 05:35 AM, said:
Having same issue as Fudge_Brownie, so I was searching for some answers and stumbled upon this thread.
What's even worth ,there's still no definite answer- would mentioned above adjustments help or not.
I had new rotors and pads installed, my car would roll back with Ebrake engaged, everything was taken apart, cable tightened ,rusted out tubes were replaced and still have same issue
Would like to get as much info before i do it one more time, so if somebody got that figured out, please LMK
What's even worth ,there's still no definite answer- would mentioned above adjustments help or not.
I had new rotors and pads installed, my car would roll back with Ebrake engaged, everything was taken apart, cable tightened ,rusted out tubes were replaced and still have same issue
Would like to get as much info before i do it one more time, so if somebody got that figured out, please LMK
You need to do the "brake-pad-bedding" thingy.
I wrote a Parking Brake DIY for my 1998 BMW 528i, scroll down Step #16 to see the "Break-In" procedure:
http://www.bimmerfes...ad.php?t=426640
In Topic: Vlv World Control Arms
17 April 2012 - 03:07 PM
dereswyman, on 16 April 2012 - 11:37 PM, said:
I posted about the TRW control arms yesterday on autohausaz but that post is gone now. Don't know why. Anyway I got a pair of them. I recently redid most of my front suspension using TRW parts for the inner/outer tie rods and control arms. The control arms seem to be fine, I've had them for about four months now. The package comes with all the bolts and nuts you need to install it. The only part I felt was different was the plastic part on the body of the arm felt kinda cheap and they cracked during installation. The arms also feel lighter than the OEM ones I pulled off.
I'd be curious if ANYONE here (or another forum) has good long-term feedback on TRW control arms.
Something like 5yr/60K miles with no problems etc.
In the global scale, TRW is supposedly as good as Lemforder.
In Topic: Vlv World Control Arms
16 April 2012 - 03:39 PM
Lemforder made the Control Arms for Volvo, BMW, Mercedes etc.
If you can find Lemforder use it.
Otherwise Volvo Bluebox only for this part.
PS: Autohausaz.com currently lists TRW control Arms for $96/each.
Has anyone here uses TRW?
I know TRW is on the same par with Lemforder but just want to ask re TRW.
If you can find Lemforder use it.
Otherwise Volvo Bluebox only for this part.
PS: Autohausaz.com currently lists TRW control Arms for $96/each.
Has anyone here uses TRW?
I know TRW is on the same par with Lemforder but just want to ask re TRW.
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