Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

lookforjoe

Member Since 22 Nov 2007
Offline Last Active Today, 05:09 AM

Find content

About Me

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/huseinholland/family/hus0021.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/huseinholland/family/ht0002.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/huseinholland/family/ht0180a.jpg

Community Stats

Group Lifetime Supporter
Active Posts 8,312
Profile Views 17,673
Member Title Level 5 Member
Age Age Unknown
Birthday Birthday Unknown
Gender
Male
Interests
Making Stuff

Previous Fields

Location
New York
Crew
NEC

Contact Information

Website URL http://
Yahoo husseinholland@

1086 Excellent

Friends

Latest Visitors

ARD - Lucky
24 May 2012 - 17:07
methan
23 May 2012 - 23:22
98glt-5
23 May 2012 - 21:32
Einherjer
22 May 2012 - 02:57
Captain Bondo
21 May 2012 - 20:04

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Revised Tune & Newer Oil Pan W/Oil Cooler

Today, 04:20 AM

little problem with flooding today - not the intermittent thunder showers in the forecast. Power went out around 3pm. Came back about 20min ago.

Posted Image

The X1/9 had water up to the seat cushions. Most of it drained out when I parked it up the road on a hill, but I'll have to remove the seats & carpets to get the silt out

So, didn't get much done on the engine except installed the head & misc stuff. Adam came by & helped torque the head - it's a PITA to single-handed angle torque on an engine stand.

In Topic: Revised Tune & Newer Oil Pan W/Oil Cooler

Yesterday, 03:49 AM

maciekb2002, on 26 May 2012 - 03:42 AM, said:

so where did the metal shavings came from? I had similar gold mine issue , But one bearing was gone + second was almost gone!!!

I don't know - all I can think of is that it was residual from the pan or the oil cooler - maybe I didn't flush them as thoroughly as everything else. There is definitely nothing at all wrong with anything other than the valve, so I could have just got away with pulling the head, but better safe than sorry.

In Topic: Rn Motor Install

Yesterday, 03:27 AM

Sorry to hear the rear main is leaking! At least you can just drop the trans to access it - no reason to pull the motor...

In Topic: Revised Tune & Newer Oil Pan W/Oil Cooler

Yesterday, 03:24 AM

Captain Bondo, on 25 May 2012 - 03:52 AM, said:

Well that's a relief if it's just the valve. On a 90mm stroke there's not much point is exceeding 7600rpm. Regardless of the valve train the piston speeds go past the typically max 25m/s recommended for any sort of street car.

Have you talked to southbend about a clutch? I am sure they'd sell you a 707 pressure plate with a custom disc. Then you could use with a "normal" flat flywheel - either a billet one with a 707 bolt pattern or a stock one with a redrill. Both the 707 and south bend have a good reputation. Mine was nowhere near slipping at 540whp/470ftlb

The problem is just the disc to PP height (or depth) - I just have to add .050" to the PP seat areas & that will bring the depth to where it needs to be. Kalmar Union reckons that no DM flywheel is 9mm PP to disc depth, his supplier says all Volvo DM's are 7.75mm. However, 9mm is also the number that Spec specifies for their clutch and their flywheel is the same offset as the stock S60R. Pretty sure the SM clutches all have a smaller surface area than DM discs, and I'd rather not get involved with hybrid discs.

BMac is having problems with South Bend - he is on his 3rd PP from them, and still not holding up under 11+psi boost on a Precision 58xx (don't remember the spec) turbo....

Ian Carr, on 25 May 2012 - 06:13 PM, said:

hope you're replacing that piston, hot spots galore if not :\

sorry about the damage man, can only imagine how bummed / read to kill someone you were

Not replacing the piston, the rings lands are good - no binding - the damage is only to the crown. I cleaned up & smoothed out the grooves.

In Topic: Revised Tune & Newer Oil Pan W/Oil Cooler

Yesterday, 03:10 AM

Busy day today

I have removed the other nine intake valves & replaced them with Volvo branded valves from an '05 RNC head. Cut down the RNC cam cover to make a cam/valve setting tool. The Volvo (INA?) valves needed about .020" removed from the stem to achieve .010" clearance- much eaiser than messing around with the shim buckets.

Posted Image

then put the valve springs in

Posted Image

added baffles to the oil pan, like the S60R pan

Posted Image

stock baffles back in place

Posted Image

looked at doubling the pickup oring, from what I determined, it would push too far out of the seat, so I cut a second one in half and that was quite snug

Posted Image