nedro018

1995 850 NA. im getting 232 code after below mod.

original airbox diverted two ways, one to intake fresh air, other to exhaust manifold. the diverter vane inside the airbox was "stuck" to only intake the hot air exhaust side becasue the temp thermostat inside the air box was broken.

i found from a 94 NA in scrapyard, a 1-way elbow that went only to intake fresh air. it fit my airbox perfectly. so used this one on my car. i removed from the car the old aluminum exhaust tube going from the manifold to my air box. this left the exhaust manifold hole "open" to the engine compartment. my logic was, "well it's not like it WAS sealed up tightly when it was going to the airbox, it was still "leaking" to the airbox"

could this be the cause of DTC 232? Beccasue there's ALOT of other things that would cause this DTC but my mod makes it suspect.

if the manifold hole must be covered, i would assume i can just use quad layer tin foil?

this procedure is well documented both here and by rich and on matt's site, i wont double post there to ask below questions here.

i bought all the parts from groton, original vovlo: the 2 idler pullys, tensioner, belt. but, the water pump is NOT Volvo. i bought it a long time ago. not sure why i didnt do volvo here, but here i have it, paid about $30-60 cant remember, and cant return it because it's been so long. but i have it.

i can do this job but it will likely take a (me) a whole day, prob a weekend. i called around for labor quotes, some said they wouldnt do it, (wanted to make $ from the parts), some would for $350-ish/3,5 hr job. so, looks like im going to do it! that's alot of cash so ill tell the wife to take a w-e trip with her friends. my 2 questions are:

1) im not saying the water pump is cheap, just saying it isnt volvo brand OEM. should i chuck it and buy vovlo? it would suck to hear bearing roar 1 yr later. has anyone had bad luck with non-vovlo WP's?

2) there are tools made to hold the camshaft wheels in place while you're pulling the timing belt up over them, for the final "hook-over". these tools connect to the teeth of the sprokets to secure them. are they necessary? anything i can use to suffice? i wont have a helper with me.

thanks for any inputs all.

i have 95 850 NA.

im trying to be proactive on EGR clogs from blowing my engine seals.

i have eliminated my flame trap plastic filter and monitor this TB area regularly for oil residue (entering TB area) and clogging holes there.

i also cleaned out my EGR valve recently and that downward southbound hole (towards the EGR valve) from the TB area as well. my hole was not plugged. was open about 35% which is good sign.

last step is the oil separator box which can only be accessed via manifold removal, well documented here.

the pics here are not from my car, i have not serviced my oil separator box yet. they are from a scrap yard model i happened by, which was quite dissected. i removed this box from it which is so hard to get to in order to find out what this last part of the EGR system looks like, and which is so hard to get to. on this car it was easy. based on my pics, i have some questions:

1) how does it work? the two lower tubes appear to INTAKE crankcase gases and pass them thru two upper tubes which EXHAUST them where? flame trap on my NA is one place. where is second?

2) how do you fix this beast? clean it by soaking and blowing with brake clean? buy a new one? there's no access to inside. this one was from a 96 manual trans (uhmm...mine's auto not sure if that matters) with about 250K and it was nasty. but there's just no access inside to clean it. even the EGR valve had more visibility.

thanks for any thoughts.

i have a 95 NA. this sensor came out of the airbox and apparently operates the air vane to open/close off the warm air supply from the exhaust. this one's not working, it's stuck to only accept warm exhaust air all the time.

i was told by one that's it's inop on 95% of the 850 NA's out there and to just leave it off because engines prefer cold air anyway. he said to lock the vane toward the fresh air side because fuel economy will be better (though warmups will take longer)

i was just wondering what the name of it is and if there's a way to unfreeze the piston.

thanks.

there is a persistent "slight" smell of gas in the cabin. it's not strong but it's there. doesnt seem to matter if tank is full or not. i have heard that it could be the injector o-rings so i ordered a set that will be here on friday. even if they dont fix it, they are really old anyway. any ideas about this anyone? should i go to there fuel sender area? could there be a leak in the line going to the evap canister? thanks.