jdlc

No plan to replace 13T on my 2.4T GLT engine.

For those who actually done it, any noticeable power gain?

Is it worth it for about $120?

Thanks

Seems we don't have this repair here yet...

 

Also referred to as Altitude Sensor, as well as MAP sensor - uber expensive new.

I cleaned it using 'mild' CRC MAF sensor cleaner - I removed it, gave the hole underneath a couple of spray using the supplied hose and reinstalled. I then cleared the cel using my OBDII code reader.  Been over a month and cel did not return.

Don't use brake cleaner for the love of anything  holy to you.
And as always, do at your own risk.


http://www.matthewsv...ile.php?id=1370



 

I did this on our 06S60 with 90k miles - really simple, 30 minutes tops.

 

Unlike P1 which uses ATF, P2 has special ps fluid.

Correct Power Steering Fluid to use is Volvo part# 30741424 (1L), which is CHF-11S fluid.

 

NOTE:  check before topping off or flushing out the ps fluid of your P2 car - if the fluid is reddish, it could have been replaced with ATF at some point.  Green is CHF-11S.

 

I used starbucks' frappuccino empty bottle to empty the ps fluid reservoir - it's perfect because of its big mouth and for its size (281mL).

You can of course use any other appropriate empty bottle/jug at your disposal. 

 

I did it twice, driving it for sometime in between.

The fluid color which I'd attribute to quality is much improved after this exercise.

I will save the remaining half bottle of unused ps fluid and do this again after about 2 years!

 

So basically, here's how to do it:

 

1. Empty the reservoir into the empty frap bottle (about 250ml) by pulling it up and freeing the large hose 'clip' - just pour out all it's content

2. Reinstall the reservoir in place, and refill with about 250mL of fresh power steering fluid

3. Drive the car for some time (say after a day)

4. Do steps 1-2 once more, making sure the level is correct in the end.

 

You should be all set.

The quality/color of used fluid is not that bad after 90k but definitely dark at this point.  I got the car used and I'm assuming it has never been 'flushed' before.

 

Cheers!

Car has 89k miles, and my top mount is the new 'square' style 30680770.
Mount looks factory original because of 'QC paint mark' and has about 3-4 mm of play front to rear when I checked it with the bar removed - is this normal or is it worn?

Also, is Hutchinson oem?  http://www.fcpeuro.c...ywords=30680770

Thanks

Shortly after hitting 200k miles, our V70 NA started to make whining noise in the front engine area. Noticed the top was not getting oil, a clear sign of sump pump issue.
Just the same, I removed the serp belt to rule out other possible cause, and the noise was still there. Also checked t-belt area and both rollers and the water-pump checked-out fine.

There was no oil pressure light, which was surprising as the top was barely getting any oil.

I've done sump pump seal replacement before and it's not fun.
So instead, I'm thinking of swapping the engine from the GLT because:
- GLT has fewer miles and has tan interior
- already done the RMS, as well as PCV, and t-belt in the last 10k of the GLT
- LPT as it is, GLT's still turbo and pulls stronger than NA
- I need to get rid of one car anyway as we're actively looking for a car for my wife
- wagon is very useful in hauling stuff, and V70 is generally in better shape than the GLT (black leather interior, with R-panel, alum door sill, rear cup holder & map pocket)
- Got it new and kids grew up with the V70, it has loads of sentimental value - latest mission was trip to NYC to send off first college child in America!
- it sounds like a cool project to do : )

I checked the NA and found two wire connectors meant for turbo cars that have blank connectors - one for the baro sensor near windshield washer tank, and the other meant for TCV but I can't seem to find any connector for the PCT nipple. So I plan to do a simple experiment on the GLT to find out if that would matter by disconnecting it and see if CEL would come on, but I doubt it will. Hopefully, I can use the NA wire harness.

Am I missing any other turbo connection to check on my NA if it's present?

I also notice the different fuel line set-up - so swap will include fuel line system to some degree.

I'm beginning to browse the na to turbo thread in here and it seems to lack detail.

I hope I can document the swap and do my own write-up but no promises as it's hard to do that working solo : )

Any feedback/tips is welcome.