BlackT5

Looks like a pretty standard setup. The R clutch is holding up so far? I'm sure many people will be interested in your tuning solution if it allows control over ME7 while retaining some functionality.

While there may be a way to attempt to fix it, why bother? If you have the stock cams to put in there so you can at least complete the head swap, I would return the cams for a replacement set, get your money back and buy them elsewhere or use the money toward something else. What are the specs on these cams compared to the stock ones? I'm sure they weren't cheap.

Hussein, what type of dyno is it?

Hussein, what type of dyno is it?

I haven't experienced that. Some of my AFRs are a bit off in certain RPM/throttle positions, but only really in low MAP/RPM cells where I just haven't get the correct VE entered. I need to run auto fuel a few times and get those changed. A short part throttle 4th gear pull.

Hows the manifold testing?

:lol:

What's the purpose of the coolant pipe to the tstat, can it not be deleted?

Needs more boost!

One step forward, two steps back :(

I hope your idea of simplicity includes a built motor and a big turbo.

Thank you! How long did yours run for after the key was out? 2-3 seconds? My car does the exact same thing and I have always wondered why. Now I have another thing on my list of things to do. :lol:

What are the timing values in the table compared to what you are actually seeing? Curious just how much timing is being pulled at the different bost levels.

I'm not following you either. Hussein, was Hahn not able to provide an ideal oil pressure range for the turbo? Would the oil pressure in the line not be close to what you see at the crank case?

Yea, I was wondering what you were talking about. I re-plumbed mine too. I had the catch can venting to the atmosphere for a while but the oil smell got to be too much. I have a bit more crankcase pressure/blow-by than usual because of the forged pistons and loose piston to wall clearances. Even I don't have a whole lot of crap in the actual IC piping, but it still creates a bit of a mess in the intake pipe. What did you do on your car?

looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't think the ME7 sensor can be rewired to work with M4.3/4. The ME7 unit receives a 5v,12v,signal,signal ground while the M4.3/4 gets 12v,power ground, signal, signal ground. Also the signal voltages are different. Idle voltage for ME7 is 1.7v while M4.3/4 is 0.9v

Maybe you missed my question. Just wondering if you'll be tuning it or letting the shop do it? What type of dyno do they use? Does the shop have a website? Looking forward to seeing what you put down!

So are they tuning it for you? What kind of dyno?

I would try get rid of AFRs in the 10s too if possible.

Roughly, yes.

I was able to boost a bit yesterday on the way home since the rain held off. It was running a little lean when boost came in so I added some fuel to the entire boost portion of the map (was short on time) but now it seems to be running a bit too rich on the top end so i'll have to adjust for that once I have more time. Power is definately more linear, it used to be that you would put your foot down and wait until the boost built for a second, then it would hit you like a tonne of bricks. Now it just gradually pulls harder and harder. It is much nicer to drive around town but I need to do a bit more spirited driving to get a true sense of the boost behavior and if I like it or not.

You might have already answered this, but have you confirmed the logs are indeed correct? AFRs in the 9s is reduculous

I think the 35r flows a bit more. I don't have egt right now but am waiting to hear back on a price of the Nira EGT probe. I planned on retarding the intake cam a bit to see what happens, but I need to test out the current configuration before I make any more changes.

I've been putting off playing with the cams for some time now but finally had a chance to do it yesterday. I'm running both intake and exhaust NA cams and didn't actually check the cam timing when I installed them with the 35r, Nira etc.. I simply used the same settings that they were set to when the motor was built. I vaguely recall telling them to retard the cams for more top end. Checking with the QBM tool, the intake cam was at +4 and the exhaust cam -2. I left the intake cam and simply advanced the exhaust cam to +3 or +4 degrees. WOW. The off boost throttle response is improved 10X. The AFRs are now a bit leaner but are still safe from what I could see. It has been raining this afternoon so I couldn't do any full boost pulls, but will be doing so the first chance I get. I'll also be doing some logging to see more whats happening with everything.