Tightmopedman9

To clear up the confusion I am using stock orange injectors. I am currently logging EGT, AFR and timing advance. I will start logging boost in a week or so. HKS SSQV. I believe the construction of the HKS does not allow boost to leak.

I tie-wired the waste gate shut and unfortunately I can't run anything lower than 15psi at 4.5K and higher under WOT. When the boost hits the 15psi mark I get a weird sound and a loss of power. I know weird sound is a terrible description, but it is not knock. It sounds more like a dull static from the TV or radio. I think it may actually be a boost leak that only lets air escape at a high pressure. I still need to do more investigating.

I am running stock injectors, therefore the number is pretty accurate.

Today I drove from Silverton to Durango, a 48 mile trip over two passes with 8447' of elevation gain and 11155' of elevation loss. Gas mileage from the dash computer was 34.3! I guess having .2L and higher compression makes a decent difference. Granted it's 2700' of elevation loss, but still a pretty darn good mileage.

It is one of their actuators with a removable spring. Not a sealed unit. I'll check the RPM signal with a multimeter.

I actually swapped in a 7.5 PSI spring. The spring was made for a forge actuator and was considerably shorter and softer than the 15 PSI spring that came with my turbo. Could the problem be boost creep? I am going to tie-wire the wastegate flapper open and see how much boost I develop, if any. Yep, that's wire I got.

I had plugs with less thank 2K on them from the old engine that I swapped over. I guess when I set the gap last I was just being lazy. So I've got the EGT probe hooked up, but for some reason can't get the RPM pickup to work. I grabbed the W/Sb wire from the yellow connector on the middle large gang connector under the dash and I'm not getting anything at my sensor. Once I have RPM rolling I'll start posting some logs. I messed the wastegate rod a bit to up the boost slightly and took it out for a test drive. It started building boost like crazy and at 15psi I shut it down. I adjusted the rod back to what I thought it used to be, but I'm still making 15psi, more than I'm comfortable with now. I tried lengthening the rod 6 full turns past the neutral position and am still going past 15. This is really frustrating. I'm going to go back to standard pre-load (3 turns shorter than neutral) and see what I get.

I was successful in deglazing the clutch. Either the cleaner I used on the flywheel and PP left some residue, or I wasn't being as clean as I thought. Either way, the problem is now fixed and the car is holding 12psi without slipping. I did some testing tonight with a bit more wastegate preload (12 psi) and was getting some spark plug blowout. I took a look at the plugs and they were pretty inconsistently gapped. Two were at .34", one was at .32" and two were at .28". I set all of them to .28", we'll see if it makes a difference. I played around with my bluetooth ELM327 scanner and data-logged timing advance, calculated load and RPM. It hung up about halfway through though, hopefully it is just a one time thing. Pretty soon I will clean up the install of my AFR meter and hook up the EGT. My goal is to bring all the signals (RPM, timing, load, AFR, EGT) into a single graph and tune until I'm running my orange injectors at 80% - I don't think I'm very far off now though. Unfortunately, I can't get injector duty cycle from my ELM327 scanner so I'll be using a multimeter tapped into the ecu for the readings. I've been going over the car every night and I must say I'm surprised that there haven't been any problems. I guess I've finally grown out of being a shitty mechanic

Uggghhhh... clutch slip sucks. My R clutch still had quite a bit of meat on it when I took it out, not to mention it only has 35K on it. Nothing is leaking from the bell housing so I'm kinda scratching my head on this one. I'm going to try the 'in car de-glazing' and see how that works. In the past I had luck with it so I'm hoping it is a similar problem now. Hey man I'm just being safe! Keeping an eye on the road, AFRs and EGTs is already too much. I can't imagine throwing a video camera in the mix! Not without one of those fancy stay amateurs .

Tuning with motronic suite. Monitoring ignition advance, calculated load, AFR, EGT and TPS.

Coolant issues are all good, just needed the longer bolt on the coolant pipe and a better hose clamp on the turbo. Looks like I have a slight oil leak, need to figure that out. 7400? Really that high?

Well I got the exhaust done and with the wideband in I took it for a real test drive. Boosting ~11psi. HOLY CRAP THIS IS FAST. I'm so amazed, it just pulls and pulls. I went past the rev limiter a few times since it was still pulling. This is the fastest car I've been in to date and I haven't even turned up the boost past the wastegate pressure. Needless to say I'm happy! Here's a quick video of it in the garage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5VbgdIBo2M&feature=youtu.be I'll get together a video with some compilation driving, idling, exhaust note and such. Any recommendations on what I should set the rev limiter to?

It was actually because the bolt was only screwed in about 3 threads worth. Dont think it took much of a bump to bend it up.

FUCK YEAH!!!!!! First try and it started right up. I still have to have the V-Band flange welded to my downpipe, but after that I'll get some videos. Now to take a shower

I went through my bag of bolts and got one that was about 5mm longer. I was able to torque it to 20 ft-lbs, and that seemed to do it. Now I just have to re-do my turbo coolant drain, I used a shitty hose clamp and I can't get it tight enough. The location is such a PITA... I went to start it with the slight coolant leak from the turbo, but the battery was dead! I put it on the trickle charger, shoulda left it on the charger last night

Well I stayed up late in the hopes that I could turn the key tonight, but found I had a big coolant leak. When I got the new head the lower coolant bolt was bent and had bunged up the first part of the threads. I cleaned it up with a tap and thought it would be fine. However, when I put on the bolt with the head on the car the bolt stripped. This is probably one of the worst positioned bolts on the whole engine to re-tap. I honestly don't think I could drill and re-tap it with the head on the engine or with the engine in the car. So I figure I have 3 options (from easiest to hardest): 1. Put the bolt in with a little JB weld, tighten it as much as I can and let it harden. After about 5 hours go back and re-tighten the bolt and see if I can get some extra torque on it. 2. Try and put a helicoil in, although I've never used one so I'm not sure if I'd have to re-drill the hole. 3. Get a right angle drill bit and tap for a larger bolt.

I removed the hubs to put the seals on. I got it timed up and rotated the crank a few times and everything was gravy. Hopefully I can turn the key tonight... Good to know about the crank position. I wasn't really sure if turning the cam without the crank could inadvertently bend a valve, but I'm sure I didn't.

But wouldn't that force down a valve, possibly one that I don't want down and end up bending it? EDIT: Alright I just turned the cam to the correct position. I wasn't really sure if I could turn the camshaft without pushing down the wrong valve. I didn't run into any resistance while turning it so I guess it'll be alright.

Well, looks like I fucked up. The intake cam was 180° out when I tightened the valve cover. There is no way to turn the cam back to the correct position without taking off the valve cover, is there? Is there a possibility that I bent a valve by tightening the cover with the intake cam 180° out?

I'm just about to throw on my cam cover and was wondering if I was doing this right. I have the cams sitting on the head and am just going to put the cam on and use the Volvo clamps while I put all the 10mm valve cover bolts on.

I flushed a mixture of MMO and Kerosene through the oil channels to try and remove any particulate matter that may have gotten in when the head was off. I left the drain plug open and just let it run through. Based on the before and after it seemed to work pretty well. 1st flush : 2nd flush (used clean liquid again):

Unfortunately I don't have a '98 housing. I would have just drilled my '96, but it had no real provision for it. Damn... I could find a thread adapter, but I doubt locally. Maybe I'll talk to my machinist.

So I got my head back from my machinist yesterday. A few valves were leaky but he went ahead and reconditioned all the valve seats and replaced all the valve seals. I installed a '99 thermostat housing to retain the coolant line from the top of the head: But I ran into a bit of a problem with the coolant temp sensors. The old style is a smaller thread than the new style: I would just use the new style sensor, but the connector is different. Anyone know if they are the same internally? Can I just solder the connector from the old sensor to the newer style one?

Good ammnint fuck bitches and tehir shit... I don't want to find time figurring this shit out, but i need tooo. Fuck them all. (not reallyu)

Hard line would be nice, but I don't really have the resources for such a thing at the moment. I could easily convert the line to -6 and run braided PTFE line, which I might do after the car gets running.